88 Celica UK GT4 Trinity. Track car

Quick vid from the sprint, not got much footage, but thought you guys would like it.



Quick edit update,

Did sniffer test, which was positive :evil:

So we losened the ARP bolts, then re torqued them, a couple felt lose compared to others. Car has only done less than 1500 miles since re build.

Took car for a spin, felt okay at 10 PSI, and then at 15PSI.

The plugs are shot to hell though, the rich running and wetness from the HG leak plus over heating has ruined them, so more grade 7s are going in.

Plan is to thrash car each night this week to check thats all still well, then go to ecu upgrade, or if it still complains, new HG, and skim on head.

Lots further to do, swap alternator you can hear the whine on the vid :shock:

Car still needs its remote filter kit fitted, cold air box needs to be made and I also want to fit the lightweight pulleys to the PAS system.

Either way the ecu is getting swapped for my link system and bigger injectors are going in.

My turbo is only just starting to get going at 1 bar, so to be in its best operatring range I need to run more boost.

Also thinking about going to a 205 head on my block, so this winter will see a forged re build, with then a 205 head, plus side feed inlet manifold, and some cams, and maybe a different turbo.

340 - 360bhp sounds nice dont it :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :wink: :wink: :wink:

 

Quick update..

Bad news, the Head I fitted last year turns out to be warped.. so its a top end re build for me...

So now I am getting my old head worked over and cleaned up to fit, its at the machine shop at the mo..

All this before my next event which is a 600 mile round trip to the north of the UK... no testing time at all.

I am a bit stressed.

New ECU plan has to be put back... grr.

 

The race venue is up north in a town called Middlesbourgh, so 300 miles there and then, back plus the track time.

I reckon it will cost me £150 in fuel!! gulp.

Will do pics etc.. just bit downhearted that instead of getting to go faster I am fixing problems.

But its my fault, I should have had the head machined before I fitted it, instead of just asuming that it was fine, having come off another car.

School boy but costly error!

 

Quick Update.

She is now at Westons having the ECU fitted and Mapped, plus the evo injectors dropped in.

I am also thinking about some new lightweight sports seats too....

I am then fitting all these new gauges. I got the cheap of a bloke who imported them from the states, do not kow much about them, but fingers crossed they will do the job.


I will be fitting up the drivers A pillar in three PODS


Sorry rubbish pic, there is oil temp, oil presure and water temp in that shot.

Oil and water temps plus Boost gauge.
Then in a 3 gauge holder to fit where the central vents in the dash are at present.




In this will go:
Oil pressure, Exhaust Gas Temps and Air/Fuel ratio

Then mounted on the far side passenger pillar will go the Volts meter.

Mounted on top of the steering coloum will go a digital Temp gauge for inlet temps.

I am also looking into fitting a buzzer into the circuits for the water temp, so if temps go over a certain point, then an alarm sounds.

I will not be fitting the rev counter thou... just not my taste, look for it in the for sale section.



Few other bits.


This is a cambelt side engine mount off a ST185, its an upgrade as it comes with a linking bar that bolts from it directly to the cylinder head and alternator, stopping issues with cracking cylinder heads.

I am toying with adding a second fan to the engine to help cool the rad... its a slimline Spal job.




Pic of my spare turbo ( Off a single turbo supra, hybrid, it should be good for 360-380bhp once rebuilt) with bits, plus spare Aussie down pipe, I plan to have a second total engine built up ready to drop in over winter.

Other plans include the fitting of my 205 LSD when I can get it from my storage unit, and some 16" wheels with wet weather tyres for the wet track and sprint days.

 

Once she is Mapped, then It will have to be 97/98 ron all the time, which is scary, but fingers crossed pump prices drop a little soon.

P.s changed my mind, going for Haltech E6X, man its going to be fun finding out what she will do. Love the idea of data logging.

Cheers guys, you all help me keep pushing on with the car.

 

Right, thought I would help my self go faster by being able to stay in the seats.







The drivers seat is fixed, bolted to the floor, custom made to me, the passenger seat is on runners.

The reason the drivers seat is straight to the floor is so I can wear a helmet inside the car, with runners they just is not enough head room.

They are ready for 5 point harness and weight about 1.4kgs each, so much much lighter than stock.

Plan for the interior is a half cage welded in the rear so I can get some harnesess in. and strip out the back seats just have black carpet thoughtout.

Its amazing the difference they make even in normal driving, you feel so much more "part of the car"

Pics next week from the mapping session with my new Haltech :twisted: :twisted: fitted :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

 

Thought I would drop in a spec list, Then some of the latest pics to update the thread again.

Car
1988 ST165 UK Model
Engine Mods

Stock Gen 1 short block
Re conditioned cylinder head
Stock cams
Steel TRD Head gasket 1.2mm
ARP head bolts
New OEM parts
Starter Motor
Water Pump
Alternator
Thermostat
New Temp sensors
New O2 sensor
New knock sensor
New Ignitor
New coil
Blue print HT leads
Re built Distributor
CT26 hybrid turbo
Aussie 3" downpipe
Mongoose 2.5" stainless steel exhaust with 4.5" slash cut tail pipe
Straight Intake
Custom sealed Cold Air box
Ali Catch can with Aeroquip hosing
Mocal 11 row Oil cooler for Power steering with aeroquip Hosing
Mocal 16 row Oil cooler for Gearbox with aeroquip Hosing
Aluminium Rad Tec radiator 60% more efficient
All New Water hoses
Evo 6 Injectors
Blitz SUS filter
Iridium grade 4 plugs
3 Bar Map sensor
HKS EVC 3 boost controller
Haltech E6X Ecu currently mapped to 269.5 bhp at 1.0bar boost
FMIC
2" inter cooler pipe work
Heat shielded Turbo, down pipe and air box
ST185 Drivers side Engine mount
Re newed OEM engine mounts
Stripped Out Air conditioning
Re located Battery
Varley Red Top 25 Battery
Electrical cut out switch

Gearbox and drive train
ST205 gearbox
ST205 Clutch
Fidanza Flywheel
ARP flywheel bolts
ST185 RC gear lever
ST205 Rear Diff with LSD

Suspension
Front
KYB AGX adjustable inserts
Whiteline Control front springs
White line Anti lift Kit
Whiteline Front ARB
Tein Pillow ball top mounts
Poly bushed though out
Whiteline Front strut Brace
Whiteline Camber Bolts

Rear
New Rear Shocks
Whiteline Control front Springs
Whiteline Rear adj ARB
Poly bushed ARB
New OEM bushed subframe
Rear Camber Bolts
Whiteline Rear Strut Brace

Brakes
Front ST185 RC calipers Newly refurbed
Pagid Front pads
Black diamond Front Grooved Discs
Goodridge Hoses
AP racing Fluid
Standard but replaced Rear discs and pads

Wheels
Road Use
17" x 7.5" Compomotive MO 5 Spoke wheels in gun metal
205 40 17" Yokohama Parada 2 Tyres
Track Use
16" x 7" 7 spoke Lightweight rims painted in satin Black
215 50 16" Toyo R888 Track tyres
Lightweight Rays Wheel Nuts

Body
Sprayed in the original Super Red 2
Custom cut out bonnet with black Mesh
Custom cut out vents in front passenger wing with Black Mesh leading to cold air box
Enlarged cooling ducts in front bumper
Trim removed for FMIC
De Badged
Corona Clear side indicators, with side lights
Raybrig Clear Headlights
Clear oval side repeaters

Interior
Sound deadening removed from boot floor and passenger area
Front seats are Cobra Monaco S bucket seats in black to FIA spec
Drivers seat bolted straight to the floor
ECU mounted in the Glove Box
A pillar Mounted Boost gauge
Stainless steel dial surround
Mountney M sport Steering Wheel
Sparco drilled Pedals
Rich brock touring car Gear lever

ICE
Pioneer DP7600 Head unit
Boston 4.5 front component speakers with dash mounted Tweeters

To do list
Re locate FMIC hoses
Fit oil filter re location kit along with oil cooler
Fit Wabro 255 Fuel pump
Fit Brake stopper

Fit the following gauges
Oil pressure / oil temp
Water Temp
EGT gauge
Fuel air ratio gauge
Fit Intake temp gauge

Remap to 1.2 bar
possible replace Turbo with custom hybrid Supra turbo
ATS cams + pulleys

Port and polish of Exhaust Manifold
ST162 side feed manifold with custom plugged sensors.

Replace rear shocks with AGX inserts
Replace whiteline springs with custom made uprated units
Get car set up and corner weighted again
Fit 185 standard rear discs with 165 caliper
Fit brake stopper

New Graphics Package for the 09 season.

Front splitter, copy of Idea from here

 

Re: My 1988 GT4 ST165 Sprint / fast road car lots of updates

Hi guys, sorry its been a while baby getting in way lol.

right last time I was here, I chatted about claying and restoring the paintwork.
Did it all without a proper polisher.
Pleased with the results.





First race of the season was at the Rockingham race track.
Went well, but it was really hot and my FMIC pipework did not work as well as I wanted, so we changed that for the next event.
Few pics and report in the local press.

 

Re: My 1988 GT4 ST165 Sprint / fast road car lots of updates

after suffering too high intake temps, we revised the FMIC pipework.




This added to the cold air box, now means that intake temps don't get over 28degrees. The pipe into the Throttle body is cool to touch even after a thrash.

We partially stripped the rear of the car out.


Then went to TSS round two at a fave track of mine.
However this showed us just how much work we needed to do to the suspension
Since swapping the tired OEM kit for The following set up in May 07.
Front
KYB AGX adjustable inserts
Whiteline Control front springs
White line Anti lift Kit with additional castor
Tein Pillow ball top mounts
Poly bushed wishbones
New OEM anti roll bar bushes with 26mm OEM ARB
Whiteline Front strut Brace
Set up camber -0.5 degrees


Rear
New OEM Rear Shocks
Whiteline Control front Springs
Whiteline Rear adj ARB
Poly bushed ARB
New OEM bushed subframe
Rear Camber Bolts
Whiteline Rear Strut Brace
Rear camber 0.0 degrees

I have found the set wanting on track, the springs were too soft and the car sat too high, the road suspension set up was not really generating good enough mechanical grip and the car was pitching and diving all over the place. In addition the roll was causing understeer, which to dial out, we set the rear anti roll bar on it stiffest setting. This gave a faster but much twitchier set up, which was poor in slippery conditions.
On the road the set up is great, its predictable and easy to enjoy.

A few pictures of the suspension issues in action.

Excess dive under heavy braking.

With my brake issues, finally behind me, I will be able to use the brakes 100%, so this dive issue would off got worse.


Excess Roll from the car, the springs are both too soft and the car to high, both are leading to high and low speed understeer.

You can see the rim is tucked well inside the arch!

Same issue from the rear, I am putting too much strain on the front corner tyre, the car needs to be much flatter to give me more grip though the corners.


Sudden directional changes are also poor, the car tending to lurch, rather than perform in a tight, cohesive manner.


final shot, showing just why the suspension needed changing.


We still did pretty good though.

 

Re: My 1988 GT4 ST165 Sprint / fast road car lots of updates

When I purchased my whiteline kit new in 07, I also purchased a 2nd full set of springs, these being the Whiteline flat out range. approx 20mm lower than the control ones and with a much high poundage, I am not sure of the exact figures, but they are a lot stiffer.

I then purchased a Whiteline uprated 27mm front ARB with bushes.

We also upgraded the troublsome ST165 brake master cylinder for a ST185 one, fits straight onto the booster, and just needs a tweek to a pipe to fit. good upgrade, and as you can get new parts for re coning them its all good. finally I can stop 100%!! 8)

Today we swapped the flat out springs for the control ones.


New front springs on the struts waiting to go on.



Old anti roll bar and bushes out.


new one with bushes in.

Front set up is now all poly bushed.

Rear strut waiting to go on.


Camber adjustment bolt, one each for each rear strut. ( sorry pic so poor)


My lightweight Rays Durrialum wheel nuts, silly money, but weigh next to nothing.


Suspension set up is now as follows.
Front
KYB AGX adjustable inserts
Whiteline Flat out front springs
White line Anti lift Kit
Whiteline Front ARB
Tein Pillow ball top mounts
Poly bushed though out
Whiteline Front strut Brace
Camber set to -2.5 degrees.
Toe 0.0
Not sure on castor yet, but it is increased over standard.

Rear
New Rear Shocks
Whiteline Flat our Springs
Whiteline Rear adj ARB set to medium setting
Poly bushed ARB
New OEM bushed subframe
Rear Camber Bolts
Whiteline Rear Strut Brace
Camber -1.5 degress
Toe 0.0




The results.
Not driven car in anger yet, but so far in the pictures the car's ride height and the attitude of the wheels is much better.

Front camber


Rear camber



Front wheel arch


overall shots.



Next plans are as follows
custom intake temp gauge, mounted in the cluster. temp taken from Throttle body
Full service, plugs checked / replaced, oil and filter
Fit rear LSD
Install switches and wiring ready for Flat shift set up.
Further strip out of rear of car
Custom rear braces, 6 - 8 point pick up ( fingers crossed this will stiffen up the rear of the shell, the boot area flexes badly on track.)

Big thanks to my mate Doug for all his help. cheers for reading, will post up full driving impressions asap.

Full updated spec list ( did it for a show, thought I may as well post if here. )
1988 Toyota Celica ST165 UK Model
Engine Mods

Stock Gen 1 3SGTE short block
Re conditioned cylinder head
Stock cams
Steel TRD Head gasket 1.2mm
ARP head bolts
New OEM parts
Starter Motor
Water Pump
Alternator
Thermostat
New Temp sensors
New O2 sensor
New knock sensor
New Ignitor
New coil
Blue print HT leads
Re built Distributor
CT26 hybrid turbo
Aussie 3" downpipe
Mongoose 2.5" stainless steel exhaust with 4.5" slash cut tail pipe
Straight Intake
Custom sealed Cold Air box
Ali Catch can with Aeroquip hosing
Mocal 11 row Oil cooler for Power steering with aeroquip Hosing
Mocal 16 row Oil cooler for Gearbox with aeroquip Hosing
Aluminium Rad Tec radiator 60% more efficient
All New Water hoses
Evo 6 Injectors
Blitz SUS filter
Iridium grade 4 plugs
3 Bar Map sensor
HKS EVC 3 boost controller
Haltech E6X Ecu currently mapped to 269.5 bhp at 1.0bar boost
FMIC
2" inter cooler pipe work
Heat shielded Turbo, down pipe and air box
ST185 Drivers side Engine (mount to be fitted)
Re-newed OEM engine mounts
Stripped Out Air conditioning
Re located Battery
Varley Red Top 25 Battery
Electrical cut out switch





Gearbox and drive train
ST205 gearbox
ST205 Clutch
Fidanza Flywheel
ARP flywheel bolts
ST185 RC gear lever
ST185 RC Rear Diff with LSD Group A Xtrac internals (to be fitted) 8) 8) :twisted: purchased for very little!!

Suspension
Front
KYB AGX adjustable inserts
Whiteline Flat out front springs
White line Anti lift Kit
Whiteline Front ARB 27mm
Tein Pillow ball top mounts
Poly bushed though out
Whiteline Front strut Brace

Rear
New Rear Shocks
Whiteline Flat out Springs
Whiteline Rear adj ARB
Poly bushed ARB
New OEM bushed subframe
Rear Camber Bolts
Whiteline Rear Strut Brace

Brakes
Front ST185 RC calipers Newly refurbed
Pagid Front pads
Black diamond Front Grooved Discs
Goodridge Hoses
Dot 5.1 Brake Fluid
ST185 Rear discs and with ST165 Calipers and standard OEM pads

Wheels
Road Use
17" x 7.5" Compomotive MO 5 Spoke wheels in gun metal
205 40 17" Yokohama Parada 2 Tyres
Track Use
16" x 7" 7 spoke Lightweight rims painted in satin Black
215 50 16" Toyo R888 Track tyres
Lightweight Rays Wheel Nuts





Body
Sprayed in the original Super Red 2
Custom cut out bonnet with black Mesh
Custom cut out vents in front passenger wing with Black Mesh leading to cold air box
Enlarged cooling ducts in front bumper
Trim removed for FMIC
De Badged
Corona Clear side indicators, with side lights
Raybrig Clear Headlights
Clear oval side repeaters

Interior
Partially stripped rear interior
Front seats are Cobra Monaco S bucket seats in black to FIA spec
Drivers seat bolted straight to the floor
ECU mounted in the Glove Box
A pillar Mounted Boost gauge
Stainless steel dial surround
Mountney M sport Steering Wheel
Sparco drilled Pedals
Rich brock touring car Gear lever

ICE
Pioneer DP7600 Head unit
Boston 4.5 front component speakers with dash mounted Tweeters

To do list
Fit Engine mount and Rear Diff
Fit oil filter re location kit along with oil cooler
Fit Wabro 255 Fuel pump
Fit Brake stopper

Fit the following gauges
Oil pressure / oil temp
Water Temp
EGT gauge
Fuel air ratio gauge
Fit Intake temp gauge

Remap to 1.2 bar

Port and polish of Exhaust Manifold
ST162 side feed manifold with custom plugged sensors.

Replace rear shocks with AGX inserts, this will complete the suspension mods.
Get car set up and corner weighted again

 

Re: My 1988 GT4 ST165 Sprint / fast road car lots of updates

hi Mafix,

Cheers for help, will def change the toe.

The brake fluid is a funny subject, so far I have boiled two seperate types of Dot 4, Motul and AP, hence swap to 5.1. will be replacing all brake lines fairly soon with copper pipe. Plan is to re make all the lines in a far simpler format, junking the ABS, and adding instead a brake bias valve. The braking system has been a constant bug bear, in fact apart from the lines and the ABS system, nothing is orginial. A lot of us in the sprint series have upgraded to 5.1 fluid, thanks to a sponser deal, but will keep an eye on it.

The rear subframme will be dropped, got both poly bushes and Supra one piece bushes to try out. Couple of UK guys tried the poly bushes and felt that they were not stiff enough, as they are two piece, the Supra ones are a straight fit and metal.
Will post pic and part numbers. Thinking of also adpoting a ford cosworth trick and getting the rear subframe seam welded too.
Def agree, those bushes need replacing, they are just OEM ones at present.

Will post pics of the alternator relocation that we are going to do, mounts it lower, shorter belt, and saves on one of the heavy mounts.

Gotta ask, why is it so important to drop the catch can, most of the runners in the series, mount them to the strut braces etc? I am guessing it is to do with flow???

Always appreciate your imput.. your help with the suspension was cool too

 

Re: My 1988 GT4 ST165 Sprint / fast road car lots of updates

Glad you agree bout the subframe, to me it just looks weak, without a cage, I have actually twisted the floor pan slightly, from all the circuit work I have done, and mostly that was done without the grip of the R888s. Given that I am always improving the mechanical grip of the car, I just think that the subframe will twist under load.

Great info for the rear cheers, will do my normal assemble the parts, then fit all in one go, going to get a spare subframe, weld it, get it powder coated, and build it up.

with the brakes, its all 185, Cs R/C calipers up front, with pagid pads, and grovved discs, St185 OEM rear discs, with OEM pads.
agree with you the abs is rubbish, I can lock the wheels, with the abs running!! so thats for the junk, I don't feel the brake balance currently is right, There is some instabilty under heavy braking, I hope to dial some of this out with the new suspension set up, ( the weight transfer front to rear prev was terrible with the amount of dive )
Will have to check out the price of stainless pipe, as copper I have is peanuts to purchase. ( less cash this year for the work )

I am thinking about changing the pads and discs, I am currently trying to get a sponsor deal with EBC, so will go for yellow stuff pads all round, will try drilled discs.
I dont want to go for the bigger set up, as daft as it sounds, too good brakes, which need a lot of temp to work best are a problem, we cannot tyre or brake warm, so I could lose time over the first few heavy braking zones.
To give you an idea, last track we raced, had a staight start to a tight chicane, It was a stop from 100mph to 30mph, some of the guys with big brake set up with too hard pads ( ideal for heavy track work ) could not attack that first track element well.

Can I pick your brains re the prop set up. It looks very power hungry with all those joints, and its damn heavy, have you heard of any inexpensive upgrades, swaps etc??

Also we are thinking of bracing the front inner wings to a pillar, would you have any suggestions for the best layout?

I really really dont want a cage, it rockets my road insurance, and means that It will be very hard to turn the car back to a road car, which is the plan for 2010.

Cheers again

 

Re: My 1988 GT4 ST165 Sprint / fast road car lots of updates

just fitted the race wheels and tyres, slight issue with rear clearance, the neg camber is forcing the tyre on to the cup of the strut, a pair of 3mm spacers sorted it, but I think I may have to play with the camber bolt setting to get a perfect balance, as its still tight.
R888s have mega stiff and big sidewalls hence the prob.

Front is catching on the inner arch protector, no biggie, will paint the plastic with cheap paint, thrash it, and then heat the bits where its rubbing, and re shape it, may cut it a bit too., but as car used in all weathers dont wanna lose it completly.

tested the flat shift :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: 8) 8) wait till I can hook up a camera and vid footage. OMG, it sounds so cool.
On flat out shifts, the ECU retards the ignition while the clutch is down, holding the revs constant and still building boost, so each gear change, the turbo does not drop off, and the car pulls faster, plus it makes a loverly crackle / bang as the fuel ignites.. just got to make a bracket for the switch and its off.

The ECU has settings for NOS, for anti lag, loads of stuff, will show some data logging too, when I can.