seank90, Back to cleaning

Re: my fourth gen, 1990, 2ltr gt

Go for the 3sgte gasket from the ST205 then, Its what I use.

Arp bolts are great but must stress a pain to fit, as you need to really make sure you have them seated correctly and tightened in the right order and then re done, which is a pain, coz you have to take out the cam to get at that one bolt.

Re Chassis tuning, dont use fensport for the bits, they are mega money. KYB agx are good and you should be able to mod the rear shocks to fit them at the rear too. The part no is for an MR2, will try and find the code. knowing the Irish roads, dont go to low, you will knock your sump and destroy traction if your setup is too low or stiff, I use whiteline, but imo there are better springs out there, thats why I am going coilover. I think its intrax that some use with good results.

Bushes well worth doing front and rear, biggest tip, is get both the upgraded front and rear anti roll bars, makes a huge difference.

Will get one of the main ge guys to confirm the fuel rail will work and I will send the injectors over, I got two sets, doing nothing. as I know use the evo ones. But bigger injectors without control wont help at all.

The afm is a big pain, if you can get hold of a decent aftermarket ecu you are poping. But beware, hardly any have looms as straight fits to our cars, so its a bigger install than normal. An Aftermarket ECU without a good tuner is worthless, do you have any rolling road tuners you trust and could use? find out what they like, Its no good having the best ECU in the world, if only one person in Ireland can map it.
I go to my tuner, every time I change the car, be it fuel pump, bigger intercooler etc, you have to have em fairly local. A base map, will just be that, too many people try to run their cars on a base map, not realising, its chucking fuel down the cylinders and doing sweet fa for the motor long term. Tuning an aftermarket ecu is all about knowledge and experience, a home brewed tune can quickly blow the best forged lump sky high. do your research before committing, check the aftermarket support, etc, its all worth doing before you commit.

Cool re the seats, and the gearbox, should be a straight swap over, You will need to change the mounts, and speedo drive, but that's it. plus you could rob the front and rear brakes too, maybe even the master cylinder and booster.

 

Re: seank90, 1990, 2ltr gt st162

Sorry for delay, mega stress out with work stuff.

right Arp bolts, its not such the physical rating more that with mine in my gte engine, they have to have a certain procedure.
This is a copy and paste from Arp.

I've been meaning to post this write-up for a while now. I've noticed over the years that MR2 & Celica enthusiasts do not take the time to retorque their ARP studs after engine break-in.

During the break-in period, the engine heat cycles, there are many vibrations that move things around, and other things that move the studs in the block. You have to re-torque the studs after this period, mainly to make sure the studs are seated in the block properly. If you do not, the head will eventually lift, and you'll get combustion gasses into the coolant system, overheating the car.

Here's what you do to keep this from happening:

1) Remove the valve cover.

2) Refer to the factory torque sequence (starting in the middle and working your way out in a criss-cross pattern just like you torque your wheels down), and work on one stud at a time. This torque sequence is shown below.



3) Break loose the first stud using a breaker bar.

4) Remove the nut completely. (A magnetic pick up toll works wonders!)

5) Use an allen key socket (A handheld tool just doesn't cut it here.) to bottom out the stud in the block.



6) Make sure the nut is cleaned, and liberally apply ARP moly lube (not oil, not multi purpose grease, but ARP moly lube) to the nut.

7) Torque the nut down to 65 ftlbs. (Not 70, not 75, but 65ftlbs)

Move to the next stud/nut combo in the torque sequence.

9) Repeat steps 3-8 in the correct torque sequence until you have done them all.

10) Clean the valve cover gasket mating surface with carb cleaner or brake cleaner. Use a razor blade to remove old silicone from the mating surface.

11) Apply a dab of Toyota FIPG (the black stuff) at each corner (where the semi-circle meets the flat surface of the head) of the 2 cam caps on the timing belt side, and the distributor shaft tunnel on the flywheel side. This will be 6 dabs of silicone total. (I have no idea how many times I have seen the valve cover installed without these dabs of silicone.) This is shown in the picture below.



12) Secure the valve cover with bolts or the 2SRUS allen key bolts using the factory grommets and you're good. Just DON'T use the stupid phillips head screws.

I hope this helps folks with rebuilt engines. If you do this properly, made sure your block and head were machined properly, and prevent detonation the best you can, you should not have a head gasket problem.

ARP now recommend torqing and then loosening the head studs in sequence 5 times....


ARP wrote:

Good question. Each time you torque any bolt or nut, up to about 5
times, the threads of the bolt or nut are seating in to the threads they
are going into. In a sense "polishing" each other. As this "polishing"
takes place the friction between the two pieces is reduced giving you
more torque applied to clamping load vs overcoming friction. After 4~5
times the effects are minimal. Once you do this it does not have to be
done again during assembly. If you disassemble the engine make sure to
keep the nuts with the studs, matched sets. Five times is a great way
to go but most don't want to spend the time. The reality is that it is
working for you. Don't change what you are doing!!!

Typically we recommend a head retorque after a period of time. This is
not due to stud stretch but normally to head gasket compression and
everything moving around a bit after running. That varies with the type
of gasket. Many times the head gasket manufacturer will tell you what
is needed in the instructions. Also torque wrenches and people make
mistakes so it is a good double check. What I recommend is that you
back the nuts off, one at a time, about 1/4~1/2 turn and then pull right
back to full torque. If you do one at a time that prevents the head or
gasket from shifting.

If you have any additional questions please contact me.

Regards,

Alan Nichols

 

Re: seank90, 1990, 2ltr gt st162

Re the bush set, there are a few suppliers in the links for mods, I got mine from Red rocket performace and design for my rear subframe etc, the others from whiteline and superflex.

You can fit the front shocks easy enough, by unscrewing the insert and adding a new one, the rears being sealed units, you have to cut off the top to drop the insert in and re weld it. There is a link for a how to somewhere with pics.

Search KYB agx mr2 shocks and you should find a local supplier to you.
not sure on the best springs for you, to keep the ride height, new stock may be too soft?
Whiteline for your front and rear arb, but I am lead to believe they have stopped making em, but you may still finds some old stock ones.

Link g4 would be a better cheaper bet, if you know a good mapper for them. the key to unlocking power to your engine will be with a matched set off mods, the std ecu is very very "safe" and once replaced, cams, fueling etc will all make a big difference. do it in sensible stages, no pint as we said chucking lots of fuel into it until you can manage that, same with advancing the timing. Def would see you needing a decent extractor exhast system. with the ecu, you will be able to contro, the T-VIS to, so your mapper can get the most from it. It def aids torque, which on a revy NA car you really need.

Speak to Stig re the 202 brake set up, didn't mean get the 202 seats lol, but if you can get one real cheap, get as much as you can. The ST205 rear subframe with its bigger discs etc can fit the 165, so maybe the 202 set up could fit the the 162???? hope this helps

 

Re: seank90, 1990, 2ltr gt st162

no worries re the help, glad to be of assistance, the Mr2 shocks are the mk2 ones for the rear. get two sets of those and you are rocking, they are 4 point adj and imo good value, about £80 ish per pair.

 

Re: seank90, 1990, 2ltr gt st162

I've always been a Koni fan, check with st162rocket 1st as he now has them fitted -
expensive but worthwhile

Moved from Oxi's hijacked thread:

In that case you need to slow right down or build the car into a rally replica.
Get a 4X4 for your daily and keep the Celi for the highways?
Do you have much black ice and snow?

Second hose goes to the back of the block, on Gen1 it's filled with a plug

 

Re: seank90, 1990, 2ltr gt st162

St165 electric seat is the same as the others, only in leather

Nice find, looks like shock controllers, must be super expensive

There are way worse roads in NZ, Africa, Fiji etc. All you can do is slow down
and drive between the holes, cows & dead people.
I can't understand why you would want a banshee motor in those conditions?

 

Re: seank90, 1990, 2ltr gt st162

If your car didn't come with electric drivers seat, chances are you need the harness too.
It's a simple mod though, I have made an electric passenger seat as well

Pity, I just threw away 2 sets of electric seats but they are damn heavy
You'll have to check the yards/ebay in UK

 

Re: seank90, 1990, 2ltr gt st162

1. Contact Redrkt01 for prices, Oxi also has a cheap contact
2. Contact 89celicagt, he's the N/Hemishere agent
3. I have one if you can't find one there, should be the same on Curren, Levin, Corona, Camry etc

 

Re: my fourth gen, 1990, 2ltr gt

I see your looking for an ST165 drivers seat.......it won't fit an ST162!!!!

If I remember correctly an alltrac seat won't fit in a ST162. Same seat but different mounting bracket
due to the need for a bigger tunnel between the seats for the drive shaft to the rear differential.

But your in luck because in north america the ST162 had the power seat too so you can deffinetly get
one of our drivers seats and put it in your passenger side. For the power option you really only need the
back of the seat and not the bottom of the seat as the power lumbar and side supports are both in the
back of the seat (save you some money on shipping).

A GTS seat. The motor on the left is for the side supports and the motor on the right is for the power
lumbar. At least its a dirrect bolt in swap for your passenger seat. You may want to check Australia and
see if they had power seats in their ST162's, if they do then they would have a bolt in drivers seat. This
is another area of our cars that likes to rust.