JDM TEMS, Corona 162 - 2 & 4 door and many more jdm oddities

Yes, I want it, just scrapped the 1 set of casings - kinda broke & looking for work now so if you know of anybody looking for a teaboy/dishwasher?
I need your help with the ST185 front hubs, the bearings are gone and I'd like to press them out
I can swap you for the spare 185 shafts, transfer, diff etc if you want part payment.
Did you swap out the speedo drive to the E154F?

I was gonna mention the Maktrak and Quaife, Xtrak, Hewland but didn't want you guys piling furniture up against the study door

 

Could have sworn it was you, listed as a GT4 in Glenfield

Another sites views on the Celica boxes -
http://gtfour.supras.org.nz/gearboxpics.htm

 

Well folks there you have it - This is what happens when gearheads get together

It IS possible to turn a GT4 box into a FWD box, use the early type transfer or simply remove the viscous coupling and front crownwheel/pinion etc.
Now I understand why our friend with the Starlet was able to run without the propshaft and also why he lost so much power on the dyno.
The viscous coupling was trying to turn the rear wheels even though there was no propshaft, with the older transfer he would have had no such problem.
The early transfer is weird also in that it may be possible to convert it to RWD as well by removing the front driveshafts and permanently locking (welding) the coupling to the rear.

We discovered why the TEMS shocks are capped - they don't have inserts and it looks like I should be able to refurb and mod them myself.

We also discovered why you can't swap wheel bearings on the front hubs

The St185 hubs now have new bearings in them so I can proceed with the TEIN install

Once again thanks to Bruce, who by the way has something awesome to show you guys but I'll leave that to him,
his car is fantastic, everwhere you look there is something strange and unusual going on

 

Bruce - I remember why I junked the MR-S shifter, the cups on these are too small, check the cables will clip to the shifter
My TEINS (st202) have heaps of clearance up front, haven't checked the rear but the fronts still won't fit, the bolt holes are too small for the 185 hub bolts.

This is the kit I was reffering to, apart from the bonnet it looks pretty mean?


This is interesting - forget what I said about the narrow versions having a common bellhousing
I found a manual for the E351 fitted to a 2AZ Camry motor (2002) - there is no sign of an oil pump in these gearboxes.
pg700 on- http://www.scribd.com/doc/91255866/170/OUTPUT-SHAFT-ASSY-E351

You can download an Avensis E351 manual here - http://avensis.org.ru/Manual/Toyota...oduction (RM781)/10_E351_MANUAL_TRANSAXLE.pdf

E52/E56 Diagram - http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_cat...and_e56_manual_transmission_illustration.html

Gearbox kits for C, S, E boxes - http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_cat...kits/toyota_4_5_and_6_speed_overhaul_kit.html

I now know that I have an RC box and a ST185 box, the RC box was opened to repair a faulty reverse gear and they cracked the box putting it back together. The pieces of alu got into the bearings and also chipped some gears.
The 185 box was converted to FWD using a direct swap of the 4.2 LSD diff, it appears to be in better overall condition.
The only difference inside these boxes is 1st gear, 2nd gear and the diff/ratio. I can't see any difference to the syncro's but I need to press all 4 shafts apart 1st.
My box will be:
3.384 1.913 1.333 0.972 0.731 3.545 3.933
and the spare will be:
E151F 3.583 2.045 1.333 0.972 0.731 3.545 4.285

Sofar I've drawn up this listing:
Ratios: (JDM spec)
...........1st... 2nd....3rd....4th...5th.....Rev...F/Drive
E50F1 3.583 2.045 1.333 0.972 0.731 3.583 4.285? ST165 1986 JDM only with locking transfer
E50F2 3.583 2.045 1.333 0.972 0.731 3.583 4.285 ST165 1987-1989, Viscous version, non JDM are 3.933
E150F 3.384 1.913 1.333 0.972 0.731 3.545 4.285 ST185 1990-1992,
E151F 3.583 2.045 1.333 0.972 0.731 3.545 3.933 ST185 RC - revised synchros on 2,3
E152F.3.230 2.142 1.518 1.258 0.731 3.545 4.285 ST185 Rallye
E153..3.230 1.913 1.258 0.918 0.731 3.545 4.285 MR2 1991-1992
E153..3.230 1.913 1.258 0.918 0.731 3.545 4.285 MR2 1993-1995 - revised synchros on 2,3,R,5
E153..3.230 1.913 1.258 0.918 0.731 3.545 3.933 .Camry/Windom/Solara/Lexus V6 (non LSD?)
E154F 3.384 1.913 1.258 0.918 0.731 3.545 4.285 ST205 - revised synchros on 2,3,R,5
E154F ...........................................................ST205 Rallye - revised synchros on 2,3,R,5

Kaaz..3.231 2.235 1.667 1.250 0.964 3.545.any...close ratio gearset (US$3000) Add a 4.1 or above diff and you have an awesome box up to 200km/h
http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=25_181&products_id=1133

Narrow boxes have pressed side covers and are not compatible with the wide version, they are some 20mm narrower.
Later "NARROW" versions - not compatible with earier types
E350.....3.583 2.045 1.333 0.972 0.731 3.583 4.285. .Scion TC - non LSD, no oil pump
E351.....3.583 2.045 1.333 0.972 0.731 3.583 4.285.. Camry, Solara, Avensis 1992 - non LSD, no oil pump
E52/E56.3.583 2.045 1.333 1.028 0.820 3.583 3.944? Camry 1988/ Lexus ES300 - non lsd - oil pump
E56F.....................................................................Camry 4WD?
E250.....................................................................RAV?

Common sense shows the E52/56 is the box to have for racing, combine it with the 4.2 diff and you have gearing similar to the Rally or Kaaz at a fraction of the price, less weight etc

 

Those are things that will be cleared up in time

Boxes on the 2AZ motors will fit as well - ie E350, E351 etc

The narrow box should be lighter, due to the narrower gears, lack of oil pump, shorter shafts etc.

Personally I don't think an oil pump/cooler is needed for fwd - it's purpose was to cool the viscous coupling which isn't easy as there's no real flow through the transfer and something I'm sure Bruce will remedy on his monster with an external feed.



Ideally the return oil line should have been plumbed to the outside of the transfer where the most heat is and work it's way back into the box.
I'm seriously considering junking the pump as it will be another power drain on the motor - apart from the LSD.
I need to discuss with Bruce and maybe an external line will be enough to cool oil in the box using a scraper and gravity feed

On my S53 and S54 I've never recorded temps higher than 85 degC but a viscous coupling working hard could easy double that.
I remember the early WRC cars had huge problems with overheating boxes which was remedied very quickly,
I suspect TTE dropped viscous and went to an LSD system or simply revised the way they cooled it.

This is believed to be the later type sequential 6sp box, note the oil feed to the outside of the transfer,
the box was called a "Hydrolock", so must have used a very aggressive viscous coupling or LSD.
We already know that these cars had front and rear LSD and I'm guessing a locked centre would be prone to breaking


The ratios in the E52/6 box are closest to the Rally and Kaaz racing versions but it has the wrong diff.
Pity the LSD is so rare and so damn heavy, I believe the Qaife (Torsen) types are best as there's no clutches to wear out.



Here's the offering from TRD which only fits the "S53/4" etc


The two boxes I have will give me the longest gearing for the road and the spare will have short gearing for the track

 

Bruce - I'll show you the bellhousing and pump lines, there is a pipe extending to the transfer but it looks like it sprays at the locking coupler on the earlier boxes.


I might turn it to spray at the LSD?
I think the cooler you can run the VC - the better
I agree on the cooler, I wouldn't run a GT4 without one, which is why I bought the 185 cooler but now not needed for my fwd project.

Kev - I think the numbering system on those may have something to do with whether there's a pump inside or not, some have (E5x)?, some don't (E3x)?

 

lol at this rate it will be years, I have enough bits for one box but the old one won't go to waste, a race box may be a cool idea

Is it possible to make up a longer pipe? I'd like to extend it along the front of the box and maybe add some fins -
similar idea to the ST205 P/S lines

 

That would be sweet!, add some fins and the stock scoop and I can save some weight up front and still freeze the LSD?

 

It makes a lot of sense, I'm sure it's pretty simple so the guys in the factory knew exactly what to use in each box.
I also noted the notches on the gears (and wrote them down) which simplied identifying gears at the factory.

I read somewhere that the revised synchros were introduced early in 1993, which means there may be some ST185 boxes with them and some MR2's without. The 1st 3 no's on the box will help somewhat.

 

Here's a 162 JDM digital gauge, you need the special fuel sender as well if you ever want to see it working.
I wouldn't waste time getting one working as the LEDS are all mostly dying anyway

reflections are the overhead lights

Has harness attached


Some recent upgrades to TEMS - lol, just kidding. This is a sneak preview of what Bruce (Oompa) has been up to over the past year and the work still goes on.
You guys won't believe the amount of work and money that is going into this car


I just love the silencers on this car

 

Replacing CV boots and wheel bearings - ST162/182/185

Glad to help Bruce but my photobucket is already full, I'd gladly upload all your pics to yours if you like?

This week I decided the TEIN suspension was a go, so I refurbed some thicker ST182 driveshafts, putting them in I found out that the carrier bearing is different on the ST182.
It's easily identified as it bolts together, wheras the ST162 bearing is held in with a clip.

It does bolt in - but the brace to the P/S bracket doesn't fit, so I had to remove the ST182 housing and use the ST162 housing. (Don't fit the carrier without the brace!)
I'd like to know why this part is beefed up, I've never heard of a carrier breaking but they do tend to snap the 2 mounting bolts if they get loose

I always dreaded taking the inner hubs apart but it's really simple, the clip pops out real easy and the CV slides in/out easily - unlike the GT4 CV's which are a PITA to re-assemble.
Once you have the inner apart you can replace both boots, grease and re-assemble - it's easier than it looks which is good news for 162 owners.


Full marks to the guys at TEQ for the design, it's the simplest, easiest CV design to work on! (apart from the GT tripod type
which is even easier)

New boots cost $15ea but the metal clamps are a shocker, I paid nearly $10ea for the longer ones!
The CV clamp tool was $35 at Repco and well worth investing in


Don't forget the nut capture washer and always use new cotter pins


Bruce helped me fit new bearings to the ST185 hubs, not as straightforward as it seems and we had great fun finding pieces to fit as well as get the hubs level.
It's well worth paying an expert to do this as you need some pretty exact pieces to do this properly and those inserts don't come out easy.

Bottom right is the seal/bearing puller Bruce "invented" in about 10min flat - very clever and works a treat without damaging the seals

The ST185 hubs ready for new bearings
They are thicker/stronger/heavier than the ST16x hubs and also have large counterweights on them which I'm considering cutting off,
good idea/bad idea?

What I do like about these is the large plastic air scoops and they also have large vents at the rear to suck hot air out

Ready and waiting


Took it all apart, man those CV nuts are tight! I thought I was going to break something getting them loose,
note the cable tie stopping the caliper from falling, I was too lazy to pull them out and bleed all over again


According to Powerofdiesels thread he used St185 hubs on his ST165, so I didn't give it much thought - BUT
When I tried to fit the hubs to my ball joints I found the ball joint shaft on the ST185 are not only thicker but the footprint is different as wel
My guess is he used l85 A-arms as well



Back to the drawing board - anybody know of a ball joint with the shaft of a 185 and the footprint of a 165?
I now have some very expensive hubs I can't use!!

I might have to go salvage some ST182/185 front arms to get this working, does anyone know if the dimensions are the same?
If not I could be making a bad situation even worse
The ST182 arms look like beefed-up versions and also have an extra brace to the rear mount


Which has me wondering why they would go to all this trouble on the later model?