JDM TEMS, Corona 162 - 2 & 4 door and many more jdm oddities

Fitting ST202 coilovers to a ST16x Celica

Firstly the ST202 Tein coilovers have 28 damper settings where the TEIN ST185 coilovers only have 16.
Second, there are 2 types of ST202. Superstrut and non-superstrut, superstrut won't work on ST16-18x's.
Comparing ST202 and ST185 TEIN's - they feel about the same stiffness - it's hard to "bounce" the body at all!
Ride is firm but not harsh as one would expect from such stiff shocks.

The ST202 front struts bolt straight in, no mods needed. I'm not happy with the top camber adjust - it's 45 deg out and needs to be turned for proper adjustment.
(Simple to do by drilling 3 10mm holes in the alu top mounts). I need to make a pattern 1st!

The ST202 rear struts are a problem, you need to drill 2 new 15mm bolt holes as the hub bolt spacing is different
(ST185 rear struts bolt straight in)
Drill the holes at the top or the bottom bracket has to be cut to clear the hub bracing webs

The brake hose clamps are different, the ST202 has bolt-on where the ST16x is clip-on, I widened the holes and used the clip on but later I'll bolt in some braided ST202 hoses.

Ideally you want the ST202 front struts and the ST185 rear struts, ST185 fronts require you to drill out the front bolt holes and toss the stock camber adjusters.

You might want to offset the new rear holes slightly, I find there's too much positive camber will need camber bolts as there's no top camber adjust - or I could slot the 3 top chassis bolt holes slightly

Hope that helps

Spidey - that's a low blow dude, lol

 

Oompa's car looks fine but I don't know where he set them

Here's my old shocks up for grabs, Kings springs and KYB struts

 

Here's the balljoints
ST18x, ST16x, Camry SV10R (1993)


Note how the Camry is a cross of the other two, it has a close match foot and the thicker pin to fit the ST185 hubs
Not an easy install, I had to slot the top hole and then cut away under the arm to be able to get a socket to the bolt
Took hours of grinding and filing

 

Car is due for a roadworthy and I'm told the TEIN adjustables aren't legal for street use, looks like I'll have to stick some ST182 shocks in for the test or spend large on re-certifying the car.
TEMS is still running well, I fitted 220 injectors to try and save some gas weeks ago, she's flubbery when cold but actually runs OK, although feels weaker than before and the exhaust is a lot louder too.
After sleeping in the car for 7 weeks I know there's still a leak above the LHS rear shock and another above the passenger sun visor.

Thanks to all those who have encouraged me and sponsored me these past 2 months, things can only get better from here and I won't be allowing anyone to take advantage of me again.
I've always said we have a great bunch of guys here and you certainly proved me right

 

3S-GE Type G engine pics (gen3 Hi-torque motor)

Happy New year to you all!

Some unusual pics from my stash, spotted a type G manifold lying in a pile of junk
Top looks pretty much the same as those on Gen2/3 GE's


Porting looks like Gen 3, so basically it's a Hi-Torque version of the Gen3 GE
SXA10 = Rav 4


The gen3/4 sump, this one's been gutted for racing but you can see the alu sump capped with a steel plate. No you can't fit one without swapping the oil pump housing as well.

 

E50F1 exposed!

Another 1st for the thread/site!
Here's never before published pics of the elusive JDM only E50F1 gearbox transfer.
The F1 was only fitted to JDM GT4's in 1986, ratios were as follows:
.....1st.. 2nd....3rd.....4th....5th...Rev..F/Drive
3.583 2.045 1.333 0.972 0.731 3.583 4.285 - JDM only with locking centre transfer diff



Easy to spot by the unusual gauge cluster which includes a diff lock light.
The diff lock switch is located next to the seat adjust switch and operates a valve which controlls vacuum to the transfer box and control movement of the engagement lever.

The diff lock was never intended for normal driving, only when stationary and ALL drive is lost (ie stuck) can you engage the lock to move out of mud, snow, sand etc.

Operation of the various 4x4 systems is explained in these vids
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v287/ ... =diff1.mp4

Part 2:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v287/ ... =Diff2.mp4

Part 3:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v287/ ... =diff3.mp4

I found this box recently as a donor for my FWD LSD project, removing the transfer is tricky as always - getting the inner shaft unclipped can be heaps of fun.


The transfer is way lighter than the viscous version, which leads to thinking just how heavy the vicsous coupling really is.
Here is the pneumatic actuator which pushes or pulls the transfer engagement splines.


Constrction is very simple, a pneumatic diaphragm, actuator, and a diff for the rear propshaft. There is also a shaft running thru the centre which powers the front RHS wheel.






The diffs are non-lsd, which meant that the 86 is prone to spinning wheels and also prone to breaking the coupling if used on a grippy surface (ie tar)
Here you can see the abuse the coupling had to withstand

Obviously engaging the diff lock while moving is a VERY bad idea

The front diff can't be used in any other box, it is unique to the F1


What's also odd is that the RHS driveshaft can't be used in the later box either, the CV inner has a different shape and needs to be cut down to fit the later transfers.

 

Stripping down the ST185 motor I noticed a lot of rust in the pipes and the ends badly rusted due to never having seen antifreeze before.
Pulled out the water hose and removed the O-ring to reveal the reason for the blowup,
there's no way that thing was sealing and must have been overheating for a LONG time:scratch

The guy told me it had run a bearing and sure enough #2 big end was f/d but I never expected to find this.
Now I'll have to check the head and block very carefully for warpage and heat damage (hardness).

Some parts I pulled for Fernando sofar, let me know if there's anything else? Do you want the ST165 distributor or would you prefer one from a ST185?


Made a template for converting my mint S53 to Camry starter, I've had it for sale for $50 for ages and nobody will buy it due to the "funny" starter

 

Toyota MR2 LSD pics, broken pinion

Viper cost $7500 to cover, that's too much wasted moolah in my book
Job was a temp assignment, I'm talking with Signarama about running the local branch.

Fernando - Found a guy with a busted ST185 box and negotiating to buy the mounts for you, does anyone know if we need to change the ST162 crossmember to ST165 crossmember?
I have a spare RHS inner but don't know if I can find another LHS inner for you.
This part also weighs a ton - do you have any?


Stripping the LSD -

It's a simple design
I noticed the washers & clutches had some gouging and wear, so a closer inspection reveals a broken pinion.


Dust or sloppy assembly and the pinion has a huge crack in it - just as well I saw this now,
it means I'll have to find 4 new pinions and washers etc and have to space it properly, won't be cheap but..


lol, you can see in that pic where I had my thumb sewn back on

If you want to tighten up sloppy gearchanges you'll need to pay attention to the linkage and lever block.
I notice both these items are pretty worn on all the boxes and I'll be replacing the bushes and block,
both need to greased at all times to prevent wear.


ST185 block/head prep, I started removing all the unwanted turbo/GT4 crud from the block and head.
The crank/rods/pistons are here if anyone needs






A few hours with the grinder and it's a lot lighter, no more unnessary mounts


I've also removed the TOYOTA logo and will replace it with a YAMAHA logo.
Note the 185 T-VIS head has no Yamaha writing on it and there is an extra exhaust stud (removed) in the centre, the 16x/18x exhausts will fit this head but later exhausts won't.

 

ST165/ST162 gearbox mount pics

TEMS getting a new rack, fixing leaks, fitting the gearbox duct etc. WRC stickers from ebay are looking good.
Tein adjusties are working well
ST185 brakes/calipers/hubs are holding up well

Sideskirt got buckled when I had a puncture and took her to the local Firestone/Bridgestone dealer, they didn't even try to find the jack point and I'm going to have to weld on some blocks to stop this from happening again

Found 3 different starters for the later boxes in my stash


Some pics for Fernando, these are the ST165 mounts I bought for my box compared to what we currently have.
Dunno what the MR2's look like but this is what you need

Top mount
ST162 left, ST165 right - different bolt pattern but looks like our rubber mount will fit both


Front mount
ST165 is smaller and the bolts closer together, could be possible to mod yours by re-drilling the box holes?


The height is the same

ST165 isn't slotted like on the ST162

Rear mount
Looks like the ST162 item but has a step on the backplate




My guess is we don't need to swap crossmembers, looks like this stuff will mount direct to the ST162 body/crossmember?

Perhaps Mafix can tell us which crossmember he used with his "E" box

 

Yes, that looks normal
The thing with open diffs is when there is a slippery surface or the diff is worn then one wheel will start spinning
ie on my old steep driveway the S53 would spin the left wheel, wheras with the S54 I noticed immediately that she would grip all the way up.

I see on another thread you already have inner driveshafts?
Do you want the ST162 bottle or the ST202 bottle?

Oil squirters don't affect oil pressure - unless they leak. They open at higher pressure/revs to cool the hot side of the piston and in effect will lessen the strain on the pump which frees power to go to the gearbox

 

Celica ST16x sunroof removal pics

This post has gone missing from the thread so I'm re-posting it for Bruce to see the pics.

Removing the sunroof isn't easy, the lid is held on by 4 bolts and the lining just clips into it.
There are shims under the lid to make alignment easy.
The lids are prone to rusting and so is the rear interior roof section.

Here are the pics:


Removing the sunroof chassis is far more difficult, there are 10 nuts along the sides as well as two nuts to the rear and front of the housing.

Once the nuts are undone the sunroof holder won't neccesserily drop and needs to be carefully cut out












This sunroof had a ST18x liner fitted, it may be possible to use the ST18x lid as well but I haven't tried.




Here I took the beading and used the sunroof liner as a template to convert an ordinary liner to take a glass sunroof.
It should look a lot neater once the glass sunroof is fitted

 

Matt - The liner just clips out - carefully, the clips are mounted in cardboard and can rip the cardboard.
Sorry I don't have a pic but I do have spare clips
I have my leg in a cast atm, I'll do your stickers in the next week or two

Bruce - The light - only the sunroof version has the map light, I cut the non version liner to take the light and now it looks like a mission to fit one to the normal roof liner, I may have to glue/weld in a bracket?
Probably better to just wait and buy a @#$@ navman?

 

It's been a hard year trying to make ends meet but hopefully some good news soon.

Apart from changing the steering rack a few months ago and fitting 205/55/16 tyres to compensate for the speedo over reading I haven't done anything at all on the car, and apart from an embarrasing voltage regulator blowup last month the car is totally reliable.

I'm sooo greatefull I was able to recon the motor back in 2010, she keeps running great despite running ultra lean for almost a year now.

Us Auckland Celica guys will be going to Whitford the weekend after this weekend.
http://celicagtfournz.weebly.com/meet--greet.html
Anyone is free to join in by contacting me or the Celica Club NZ page on facebook

 

Some pics from the weekend run









Remember my old ST165?


Now has Altezza front brakes


Car just got a new shaded windscreen and an aftermarket rubber which looks a treat, I was on the right track with the ST182 rubbers which were just too brittle to mould properly to the ST16x screen








Also got to have lunch with Bruce (Oompa) and chat - good to see the lads again!

 

This pic is for the guy who bought my JDM rocker covers in the US and says that the middle bolt doesn't line up
In this pic I have the GE covers on a GTE head and you can see the GTE has a different hole but it lines up with the extra hole



Please can somebody post a pic of a US GE head so I can see what the difference is?

Just had ANOTHER column switch failure, luckily Rahul still had a spare facelift switch for me.
I suspect the 80w headlight globes may be causing the problem or maybe just old age?

The TEIN suspension is gone - sold to a guy with a ST185, re-fitted some stock shocks for now to keep her legal. Plan is to later convert some TEMS shocks to coilovers without adjusters and screw the dumb NZ shock laws.

When Rahul dropped off the switch I got to snap some pics of my old GT4
Note the cover on the spark plugs for a "no-spark" look
Please note - motor is a GTE with GE covers and inlet, not a turbo'd GE
It now uses a ST185 ECU as well as a ST205 gearbox
ST185 motor is being built


Interior is now a track only option and a roll cage soon to be fitted


I'm still waiting for a decision on my 2yr NZ work permit, my current permit expires 9/10/13, for US readers that's 10/9/13.
My passport has finally arrived after being AWOL for 9 months - Thank you inefficient a/holes in the SA Govt!
Still no sign of the $10k I won in court, but the good news is another $2k in costs was awarded in the meantime.