JDM TEMS, Corona 162 - 2 & 4 door and many more jdm oddities

I wasn't kidding when I said the GT4 box is glued together, looks like they used a tube of Hermetite red on this box





Add 2 bent studs and you have a real problem


The bare bellhousing with oil pump and pipes which the S5x don't have


The GT4 and LSD diffs compared, note the blue and white speedo rings
The GT4 diff drives the rear wheels via the short fat shaft and the RHS front wheel via the long shaft


That's because the blue is a 4.2 (short) diff ratio while the white is a 3.9 (tall) diff ratio, so my search for the elusive 3.9 diff is over before it even began.
It means having to break down both diffs to get the speedo rings out but I wanted to have a look inside anyway.
This JDM GT4 box has the normal ST185 GT4 ratios but with a 3.9 diff which is supposedly only found in the Rally/CS versions - cool

Whats not cool is having two boxes with different ratios - makes you want to fix them both and have a race box handy

Which means I have some more spares to sell, GT4 transfer, mounts, shafts, diff

 

Yes, believe me I counted them both several times as I couldn't believe my luck, there's only one tooth difference on each of the 2 gears.
Over here it's only the ST185 CS GT4 box that uses these ratios so I'm keen to see the synchros as well, the 5th gear was normal and badly damaged, reverse doesn't look good either, but reseach shows they are same as the nomal boxes.

The Camry, Solara, Windom FWD etc are believed to carry the 3.9 diff. I think Mafix has one as well
The problem I see is that the 3.9 is intended for electronic speedo's, so there could be a problem with speedo drives but the rings appear to be the same size?

The "new" tails - more like WRC every day


Swapped out the LHS headlight bracket as my screws etc were badly rusted








No wonder the light wouldn't adjust

 

I dunno what Mafix uses but there's sure to be a difference in tooth count.
They are very similar so maybe not an issue worth worrying about
Got a pic of your speedo gear? I believe the non-jdm GT4's had 3,9 diffs stock

 

Unfortunately it's the only way to know for sure

I cleaned the housings to see which are best to use and discovered why the GT4 box was so damn dirty, the bearings in a bad way,
so much silicone, and why I got it so cheap. There are major cracks in the housings which someone attempted to seal with silicone.
Apart from the web smashed off the bottom the rest are operator inflicted, using the wrong bolts has cracked the housings in several places and there are craters where there should be aluminium.
On top of the box it looks like overtightening bolts or hammering the selector fork shafts has cracked along the top of the box:banghead











Some people shouldn't be allowed near cars, I bought this off a mechanic and he didn't even show when I picked it up - guess why?
Hopefully the other cases will be OK and I can swap stuff around without too much drama

All those loose pieces must go somewhere, this the result

 

Thats good to know, mine look the same


These came from these two boxes so I guess either will work

 

You can use either, problem is finding mechanical drives which over here are all for the 4.2 ratio.
I was worried that if I switched to the 3.9 the nylon drive sprocket would get chewed up.

Over here it seems we only got 4.2 diffs apart from the Camry, Windom and RC cars. I'm not sure but I think O/S these were fitted with 3.9's.

4.2 is the one the racers want, I saw a MR2 AW11 go from 3.9 to 4.1 and drop his 1/4 time from 12.4 to 11.9 seconds recently.
His top speed was only 2km higher but the 60ft time was down by 0.3sec
On the dyno his FKW went up by 80KW at the same time

When we had the M5 engined BMW320 on the dyno it registers 15kw more in 4th than in 5th, the only explanation is shorter gearing - 295kw vs 280kw every time

On the track the lower gearing (higher no) will give better power/torque/acceleration, if I were wanting a track car I'd keep the 4.2 but I want it for the road and get the revs down on the highway.
Compared to the 3.9 ST182 box I'm using revs should come down another 3-500 in 5th which all up is roughly 1000rpm lower than stock JDM GT-R (ie Fernando's)

I currently have the RC box and the MR2 box I've yet to count but it should be either the MR2 or ST185 ratios
It's still a mystery what's actually inside the o/s boxes as nobody's posting info but we believe the EU/USA ST165 etc came stock with 3.9 diffs as seen with the S53 boxes

Ratios: (JDM spec)
......................1st .. 2nd .. 3rd .. 4th ...5th....Rev....Final
ST165 locker....?(Oompa has one?)
ST165 viscous 3.583 2.045 1.333 0.972 0.731 3.583 4.285
ST185 ...........3.384 1.913 1.333 0.972 0.731 3.545 4.285
ST185 RC .......3.583 2.045 1.333 0.972 0.731 3.545 3.933
ST185 Rallye....3.230 2.142 1.518 1.258 0.731 3.545 4.285
ST205 ...........3.384 1.913 1.258 0.918 0.731 3.545 4.285
ST205 Rallye....?
MR2 Turbo ......3.230 1.913 1.258 0.918 0.731 3.545 4.285

 

Yeah, I dunno how to do tables on here either
What's strange to me atm is the 5th gear on all the JDM boxes is the same, please could you count yours and hopefully there's some option other than 0.731

If the other box is indeed a MR2 set, I will probably use those gears with the 3.9 diff, it will slow her down but less gearchanging for me, I'll take torque over horsepower anyday -
on a racetrack it's the other way round, short gears and big ponies at high revs make quick laps, but you can forget about towing a trailer or leaving it in gear for more than a few seconds.

Note how they grouped 2-4 closer together on the 185 Rallye to get better acceleration out of slow/medium turns while mainaining boost, but 5th remains the same which gives a big jump to 5th gear

 

Where? that's a "S" ratio?

 

2 Types of Toyota Box code "Exxx" explained

Here we run into confusion - you're talking about the later thinner (RAV4 type) box with pressed metal cover?
Those gears are different to the earlier style boxes and I would expect the RAV to have shortest gearing of all
These later boxes are some 20mm narrower than the early style, (note the extra width outside the cable lever mount)
it appears to be all in the gear casing so I'd like to know if the bellhousing/diff could be swapped


ST165, ST185 and ST205 all use

 

We'd need to know the diff ratio, tyre size etc Sean. At 100km with the 3.9 you'd need about 0.7 to do that.
If my info is correct your S53 currently does 2900rpm @100km which is the same as my S54.
With a 4.1 diff you'd need around 0.5 to do the same, you'd have to get that made so the 3.9 is the better highway diff

I get your point Kev, problem is there's no listings of the other boxes and they're rare, much rarer than the "wide" early boxes.(we call them RAV boxes here)
I have no info to draw from so can't comment on them. Maybe someone has some links?
I agree on the crazy numbering system, it makes no sense but I believe it's based on the type of gearset used exept for the initial E50F which may have been an error as subsequent E5x don't have anything in common.
I'd also like to know if the steel cover swaps with the alu cover as I suspect guys may have done that in the past and confusing the issue even more

Yes the 0.7 will drop your revs, I'm guessing around 300-500rpm, if you can find one for the narrow box

What excites me about the narrow box is that it may be possible to swap gears with the S53/54, obviously with some machining, spacers etc involved but way cheaper than having gears custom made

The bugbear of the E series is the width/weight of the gears, which leads to crunchy gearchanges, they attempted to slow the heavy gears with multiple synchros later on, and on the narrow boxes the gears are made narrower/lighter similar to the S series with thicker shafts, bigger diff, better synchros.
In Australia they have tried lightening the gears but it involves having them re-hardened

What we really need is for someone to send a spare set of gears to Synchrotech, they probably aready have the carbon synchro sizes in stock. (this is what is currently being installed in Lexus etc)


IF I ever won lotto I'd buy the "RAV" box, an a/m LSD, and have custom ratios made in titanium @ a cost of around E50 000 - that's silly money to fix a sloppy gearbox!

You can buy straight cut racing gears/shafts for these boxes with dog engagement (no synchros!), even then your'e looking @ E22 000 and they are noisy as phuk.
http://www.ingearperformance.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/TOYOTA-CELICA-Assembly-drawings.pdf

The kind of money we're talking it would be cheaper to buy an ex WRC or BTCC sequential box

My solution for now is to decide the ratios I want from whats available and rebuild the box using as many new parts as possible (budget allowing), the cones I intend to sandblast and see if that makes a huge difference as I see the new gears don't have shiny polished cones.