Re: New girl, out of hiding! I've been working on the back, just taking out the interior panels and the lights...speaking of which, how do I break the seal carefully without hurting the plastic. My lenses are in great shape and I don't want to have to replace them Thanks for the tip Mafix, I'll go check that out now....
The engine is completely torn down now, pics to come soon I've been working on the brakes and steering as well, so she's a full time job practically LOL, I'm lucky to have the resources at school at my disposal... The head is in the machine shop for decking and some extra cleaning (a whole day in the school's brand new hot tank couldn't cut it...eeewwww...) The flywheel is machined and ready to go. The crankshaft is being polished (should be done now, just have to go get it...) Sadly some things will have to wait until summer such as: struts, bushings, control arms (seems to be the only way I can get the dang bushings LOL), injectors. But right now, I have replaced or have on hand: new Competition stage 4 clutch (sheesh) new MR2 Oil pump Walbro fuel pump Cometic head gasket All other engine gaskets/o'rings, etc. either Toyota or Stone ARP bolts and studs new water pump new e'brake shoes (installed) new rear wheel studs (installed) new rotors all the way around new calipers all the way around new brake hoses all the way around (installed) new front half shafts new sway bar links (front installed, rear waiting) new ball joints new tie rods, inner and outer new steering boots new strut mounts (front installed, rear in the waiting) new rear bump stops and insulators on their way new power steering hoses, Toyota (came with the car) Arias Pistons, Eagle rods, ACL race bearings mk III Supra CT26 Turbo (no cracks YAY) I've probably forgotten a couple things there, it's all a bit overwhelming....my first build EVER! But she's coming along, albeit slowly, most time spent on the engine at this point and some things can't be installed until the engine's back in the car... This week I'll be pulling my hair out as it's spring break and I can't work on her... but will be cleaning the goop off of the wiring harness and fuel rail (homework Hahaha)
Looks like you're having fun ! The workshop is very clean and you've got acres of space to move around.
Thought that was my car there for a sec :naughty doubt if mine's ever seen a lift in it's life Nice shop - one day I'll win Lotto :fingersx Engine stand - best way to mount the motor is with a plate on the front Allows access to both sides but you need to cut, drill & weld one up - not on the curriculum? Looking good there Dawg!
Thanks guys, and I'm having tons of fun, as well as the frustration that comes with owning a 165 LOL! I love being able to work in this shop, it's huge, well stocked, and well lit. Yeah, welding isn't part of the course curriculum...not until I get into auto body! Mafix, whatcha mean? Anything not in the pics is on one of the tables or in the hatch of the car...If you're asking about the water outlet, I removed it when I took off the other hoses. The amount of gunk on and around the engine was unbelievable...I have so much cleaning to do it's not funny...Investing in simple green LOL! I got the head back, they removed .005 off of it...so I take it that means the block still needs decked? How important is that for the compression? it's gonna be another $80. Yikes LOL
Nice first build. I can see your eager to keep on going. Good luck on the build! Keep us updated! :thumbsup:
yes deck the block regaurdlesss. you'll need the clean surface and since the machine shop will have it for the honing they might as well. have them hot tank the block as well. be sure and clean those squirters.
Well, Mafix knows....but an update. The block is cracked in two places. Bolt holes to water jackets on both sides. The shop magnafluxed it for me so I'm going to go take a look at it and pick it up to take back to school as an example I guess....blech. Talk about throwing a wrench in the gears... :banghead
supposedly there's a shop up in Indy that does nothing but fix cracked blocks....don't know how well I'd actually trust that with the heat/turbo and hp....
i'll be in the shop saturday inspecting one of my spares for you. price should be as we described on the phone. i'll call with my findings.
Picked up my block. I'll get pics up soon. It's cracked in two places on the same side. On the gasket surface between the head bolt holes and into the waterjackets...ugh. the magnaflux is still on it so you can see it really clear. Such a bummer... I didn't see it, and they only saw it when smoothing the surface.
checked one of my spares. it's stock bore, no cracks to be found, untouched since new. will need to be decked, bored, and line bored as one of the main caps was f'ed up (i marked it so you can see the one i swapped out) ready to go pretty much! just PM me details.
I'll be pming you in about a month for that block Financial aid takes too long... hnoes I've got the Celi home and in the garage...I put all new brakes on her and new lines...bench bled the master cylinder and bled the brakes/seated the pads. Everything was awesome until we got her off the lift, moved her across the shop prepping for the trailer and she started dumping brake fluid from the pass side line. sheesh. I think the doofus helping me was afraid of a torque wrench. I had to go back and rebolt up the struts too. I had another person helping on the swaybar links and such (little stuff at that time) and he and his buddy were convinced it was a ford and that everything needed standard sockets. I told them ONLY METRIC numerous times and they wouldn't listen. Anyhoo, they didn't touch the car again after that. Oh and only designated people could touch the car when I wasn't there
yeah ALWAYS double check every single nut and bolt. this process took hours\days on mine when we first built it. and i still missed a loose camber adjuster on the rear. found that out when i aligned her the first time.
Yeah, I'm learning... I guess after the initial bleeding I thought it was all good. I get marked down if something isn't torqued right...so I have to be extra careful (even got in an argument with my instructor about the torque specs for the ball joints!! I won...Ha!)
blue lock tite is your friend :mrgreen -the ones that always came loose on 09 were the e/w crossmember bolts. they always needed a re-torque after initial install and a quick run.