starting problem

Hi all, did not get any further today, in fact I actually took two steps back. I showed my friend(more car savvy than me) about the no start. The car cranked a couple of times and the battery went completely dead again. He left, so I went and replaced the battery with a new one. As soon as I tightened the negative terminal, there was smoke and the sweet smell of my hopes being dashed to bits, seasoned with a faint acrid plastic burning in the air. Puffs of magical white smoke everywhere. hnoes Shockingly, managed not to get my hand burnt as I unhooked the brand new battery. But the damage had been done, even without the twist of the key. The pain, the pain. :sad5
So I unhooked everything and ripped into the wire loom. The negative cable from the batt. post to the ground point was literally fried. The other wire from the positive terminal to the starter was also fried. Complete and utter meltdown. Somehow, the terminal end at the starter had managed to ground itself by touching the starter body. Mere mm but enough to condemn me into a FAIL. Found a naked connector behind the wire loom. No clue where it goes. I should take some pics. The tubing to the slave cylinder is not fastened down. La dee da,...

On the positive side, got some gas into the trac, muhahahaha.

 

If its the fuel pump, does it mean that I have to drop the tank to get access ? :help

 

So finally got everything back into the car. Cranks like a champion but no start. Did smell some gas so I am guessing that the fuel pump is in good working order. Will check the spark plugs next. I checked the hoses, all seemed fine. No cracks or pin holes. Is there a full proof way to check the integrity of the fuel pump ? As always, thanks in advance.

 

Hi, just to trying and get ahead of the game now. If indeed it is the fuel pump, would installing a walboro 255lph be the way to move forward ? Can anyone who has done this please advise ? Thanks. :cheers

 

I only smelt the gas at the exhaust after mashing down on the accelerator while trying to start the car. I am sure that its the pump. Too many likeness on the forum boards with cars that have been sitting. Plus I did not hear the pump come on, it should be evident as the rear of the car is stripped. The Alltrac has the fuel pump in the trunk. Because of the rear drive-shafts the tanks itself is placed closer to the rear bumper when compared to the front wheel drives. Any advice on the high flow pump would be great. Thanks in advance. :cheers

 

@ eNtraxGT88, I suspect that my pump is gonna look somewhat like yours when you replaced the fuel pump. Did you treat the tank ? I am told that there is a product for treating the inside of the tank but I can't seem to find it. Did you upgrade your pump or did you go with an OEM replacement ? please lemme know, again :cheers and thank you in advance.

 

Hi all, thanks for all the advise. I think that for now, I will just go with an OEM pump. The OEM fuel pump seems to cost more than an aftermarket high performance walbro pump, SHOCKING(insert em-icon form sarcasm). Dropping the tank seemed fairly straight forward but I have hit a snag. I can't detach the hard fuel line. There are two spots were I can uncouple the hard lines with a flare 14mm & 19mm but both ends seem immovable. So right now I sprayed a healthy dose of PB Blaster and hope that sitting overnight might help. Could I be turning the nut the wrong way? Anticlockwise is to loosen in my world. Any help/advise would be great. :cheers

 

Cool, at least its not reverse threaded. My plan is to soak the connection with penetrating oil for a week. My trac tank has a nut that I loosened to dump the fuel out. The fuel was slightly amber-ish in color. Did the "Seafoam" in the tank smoke up the place badly ? Neighbors, what can you say. The fuel lines are not rusty but I do not want to break them, I have read some horror stories. Will keep you guys posted. Thanks and :cheers

 

Quick question here, so that I will be able to sleep tonight, the hard fuel line(14mm)black does not turn, stationary. The 19mm flexible hose nut is the one that you loosen right ? Please let me know. :cheers

 

Yay, the fuel tank is down. Finally managed it by uncoupling the flexible hose in front of the rear axle. Points of note to anyone dropping their tank. The wrenches are 14mm & 19mm and use flare nut wrenches. The 14mm at the fuel pump, does not move, you can't turn it. To break loose the coupling, hold the 14mm stationary and rotate the 19mm. The coupling in front of the rear axle is easier to reach, relatively. I rehung my tank off the ground, loosely, so that the coupling before the rear axle was not stretched. Jacked the rear end up. Took the tire off and thus proceeded to soak the coupling. With some extra muscling, the coupling broke lose. Yay :crazy