First off, the emergency tag is because we need to drive this car to a shop to get a roll cage installed and right now we cant start it. Here is the long description of the problem and how we wound up there. This is intended to be a racecar. Everything has been removed from the inside, nearly everything important has been replaced outside the engine, and the engine is still strong. In addition to gutting the interior, we had to take out the steering wheel lock, and in the process, destroyed the front part the ignition switch where the key goes. All we have left is the plastic switch itself which inside is rotated by the key portion and starts the car. Here is the issue, when we turn that switch with a screwdriver, we can get the car first into ACC, then in to ON, and finally when we turn it to ignition, it fires up. The problem is once it starts and we disengage the starter it runs for maybe another 5 seconds before it just dies. The starter starts the engine EVERY time. No starter problems, no spark problems, no timing problems, it just will not stay running for very long after the starter motor is disengaged. Fuel has pressure, alternator tests out fine. So my question is, who has made a switch (or series of switches) in their car to replace the key ignition switch? If you did this with the wires that already exist in the cabin, how did you do this? Can you provide a diagram? If that question cant be answered, can someone explain to me the sequence for engaging the two ignition leads and the starter lead all combined in the wiring harness for the keyed ignition switch? Is there a trick for engaging the ignition using the switch while it has been separated from the key portion of the switch? If this is actually not my problem, are there any suggestions as to what might cause the car to just die within seconds of disengaging the starter motor? Even if I get it gas, it still dies, just immediately. Any thoughts or insights are really appreciated! Thanks
there are plenty of videos on YouTube about how to wire up an ignition switch/button. I'm not aware of anyone on here who has done any such thing. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FBQwxm0uYo Here is a video by one of my favorite YouTube channels MightyCarMods. They show you how to install a push button for starting your car. This one still requires a key but may work.
Have u checked to make sure u didnt unplug ur afm?.......someone check to see if ur afm is hooked directly into ur key wiring somehow....rhats what i would check. Ive never installed a switch in the cely but had a flip push starter. In my truck. Easy to install....one to the batt...one to the starter....one to ground...hook to back of switch...viola.
And no there's not a problem when u separate the key from the plug...u can use that's screwdriver all day long and it should work.....i do have an key switch installed in the cely.......all u would do is pick ur hot line and interrupts signal...wire. that switch inbetween
The air flow sensor is plugged in and i assume it is working, i can try a backup that i have later, but I've had problems with them before and they don't just die at full throttle. There is something electrical cutting out i believe, or a ground that got disconnected that i never hooked back up, but nothing obvious. Fuel pump works. I believe i hooked up the gas vapor line and fuel return line correctly, but i may have not. All of these mechanical issues would at least cause sputtering or rough running, but when its on, its silky smooth until it cuts out like i just turned the key off. Looking at the wiring diagram, i have two source wires 1, 2; and 4 signal wires acc(3) ig1(4) ig2(5) and st(6). The diagram then has wires 2 and 5 connected by a single switch, and wire 1 connected to 3,4,& 6, by a 3 way selector switch. My assumption is that i need 2 & 5 always connected and then i connect 1 to 4, then 1 to 6 to start, and then back to 1to 4 for running. Does this sound correct? What might i be missing?
I haven't, but again it runs really smooth, revs up smooth, then just stops like it was shut off. I'm thinking it has to do with the ignition somehow.
looking at the electrical diagram there are 2 12 volt wires going into the ignition switch - AM1, wire/terminal #4 a white wire coming from the battery through the 40 amp fuseable link - AM2, wire/terminal #8 a black wire with red stripe coming from the battery through the 30 amp fuseable link coming out of the ignition switch are 4 wires - ACC, wire/terminal #3 a blue wire with red stripe that powers accesories....probably uneeded to keep engine running - IG1, wire/terminal #2 a black wire with a yellow stripe and provides power for the auto tranny ECU, wipers, guages.... - ST1, wire/terminal #1 a black wire with a white stripe that provides power to the starter - IG2, wire/terminal #7 a black wire with an orange stripe that provides power to all the engine parts, ecu, injectors, coil, ignitor, distributor So with that in mind looking at the above chart in the on position - wires 7 & 8 are in contact so AM2 is sending power to IG2 so you need 1 switch here to send power to the engine - wires 4 & 3 & 2 are in contact so AM1 is sending power to ACC & IG1 so you need 1 switch here to send power to accesories So basically you need 2 switches Switch # 1 input is AM2 black wire with red stripe output is IG2 black wire with an orange stripe Switch # 2 input is AM1 white wire output is 2 wires - ACC blue wire with red stripe - IG1 black wire with a yellow stripe That will keep your car running, you still need a starter switch. My Celica would randomly die while running and I finally tracked it down to a broken wire in the engines wiring harness
Oh, just a broken wire in the engine wiring harness, so nothing difficult to track down... uke Based on this switch my suspicion is that when i am just turning the base of the starting mechanism, I am not connecting IG2. My guess is that that connection exists as a part of some low-tech security measure within the unit itself. Does anybody happen to have a picture of the ignition switch completely removed from its housing? This doesnt matter, it is more for me as a sanity check. I had only been looking at the wiring diagram and guessing as to what remained connected during and after ignition. That second photo of the continuity of the switch itself was a huge help. I will try now wiring together all of these wires according to both diagrams and try again. While we are on the topic and before i can actually try it, what does the Unlock Warning (Normal | Push) do?
Ya just a broken wire -2 coils -3 igniters -2 distributors -2 AFM's -new distributor cap -new rotor -new fuel filter and I finally decided the wiring harness for the engine must be the culprit, I could move the engine wiring harness in the area under the water outlet neck and get the car to run again and every time it died moving that harness would get it to start again so I replaced the harness and have about 1000km with no more problems Ya I would have to guess that AM2 is losing its connection with IG2, I think that this is the only connection you really need to keep the motor running I think AM1 provides power for accesories and things like guages, windshield wipers so you may actually only need the first switch if you really only want to power the engine I can't really find any info on it but my guess is that its a signal that the key is in the ignition. If you have the key in the ignition in the "lock" position and you open your drivers door an alarm will sound. If you have power locks and you try to lock an open door with the key in the ignition in the "lock" position the door will unlock itself. So is that what they mean by "Unlock Warning" ?? If you have manual doors you will hear an alarm, if you have power doors you will hear an alarm and if you try to lock the door while it is open it will unlock itself. So the car has to know when the key is inserted in the ignition even if the ignition has not been turned beyond the "lock" position, so that is what I think wires/terminals 9&10 are for.
Alright, thats what i thought. All we have is that gray piece left over with the wires coming out of the back of it. Ill try too wire it up to work without and share my results later. Is there a good diagram of all the connecting points of the wiring harness in the engine compartment?