ST162-7254182 "Dirty Deeds" Edited

Do you want the connecting rods too or just the pistons ?

further destruction as stig says the manual calls it a 5sfe ballancer

mine just fell right out the only thing preventing it from falling right out of the case
was the tube for the speedo cable

You need help :hehe but whatever turns you on I guess :eek5

I'll get some pics of the crank for you

 

Don't know but thats what they look like. It was a 92 5sfe

to bad your not closer it could be your's I doubt I'll get more than $5 for scrap metal. If I ever do
decide to do a 5sgte I still have another whole 92 camry wagon sitting in the yard and it still runs
both wagons were approaching 400,000 km's

fe left ge right the ge looks stronger diameter appears to be the same


fe left ge right the ge is definetely wider and has much bigger bolts


fe bottom ge top


I measured from the bottom of the pin
GE


FE


the GE arm is about 2mm longer

 

FE rod GE rod cap so the FE journal is about 3mm bigger in diameter


FE cylinder is about 13.9 mm tall


GE is at least as tall maybe 14mm

 

:barf



Dam .... :toetap05

 

Well technically it's only 5pm Dec 16 for me but seeing as your under the
impression that I should be celebrating I'll start early :cheers

 

well that was nov 24 2011

and now I'm expecting great weather well above the normal averages for this time of year
so I'm hoping to be able to contribute to global warming by getting Dirty Deeds back on the
road this week.


I didn't do much over the winter just had a couple small issues to deal
with. I had a leak somewhere around the front of the rear passenger
wheel well and the second is a leak where the air comes in to the heating
system. The passenger rear wheel well leak turned out to be a weld that
had not been totally sealed so I put some ruberized rocker guard spray on
it and then back the pesky intake air leak. I have put countless hours into
trying to seal this area from the inside so I'm sure the leak isn't from there


Taking a look at the cutout on my white coupe I can see that there is a
second piece of metal that has been attached on top of the main piece.
The red arrows point to both the inside and outside of the seam. I don't
know how Toyota attached the 2 pieces together but their does appear
to be some old dried up rubber gasket in amongst the rust of the 2 seams.


So between the rust and the dried up gasket I think the water is leaking in
between the 2 pieces of metal so I'm going to try and waterproof the seam
from both sides and I'm going to use some some roof sealing tar to get the
job done. It should aslo do a good job of soaking into the old rust and
preventing new rust


So it's time to cut a hole in Dirty Deeds and see if I can finally get the leak
fixed. The stuff is pretty easy to move around and should seal well. To the
right you can see a piece of aluminum I cut out to cover the hole.




I've added 3 bolts, 2 to hold it in place and 1 to use as a handle. I put a bit
of roof sealer on the back of each bolt to waterproof the holes in the aluminum


and bolted in place


I put the bolts on the cover low down so they wouldn't interfere with the
bottom windshield covering


So hopefully I can get Dirty Deeds on the road this week and hopefully I've finally fixed the fresh air intake leak

 

Last fall I got a 5th gen license plate holder because it looked like it would fit a 4th gen
after a bit of modification


I want to iluminate the red lens so I cleaned out the paint Toyota had applied to the inside


I was then going to start making some flat fiberglass sheets but then I decided I should
check out the original black plastic portion of the license plate holder


So I cut off some of the bottom and the 2 tabs on the sides


I sanded the sides a bit to better fit the contour of the 4th gen and ended up with this




The 4th gen bodywork seems to widen as you get lower but I should be able to fix that


Now I'll have to do a bit of fiberglass work but useing the black plastic piece has definetely
saved alot of time and work and materials

 

Ya I saved the piece I cut out I just want to make sure I have solved the leak before I weld the original piece back in

Back to the fun world of fiberglass and my trusty duct tape. I'm going to mold a couple of side pieces out of fiberglass
and then stick the black plastic piece to the fiberglass. This will also solve the issue of the 4th gen body getting slightly
wider at the bottom of the license plate opening


I'm also going to use 4 existing bolt holes to attach the new license plate holder to the car so I wrapped 4 stainless
steel bolts with a bit of tape to protect the threads from getting gunked up with fiberglass resin when I insert them
through the wet fiberglass cloth


I cut a bunch of 7" strips some 2" wide and some 1/2" wide of fiberglass cloth. I went with cloth instead of mat
because it will contour better to the iregular shape. I put 2 2" strips on each side and then poked holes and pressed
the bolts into place and then put 1 more 2" wide strip over each side. then to build up the outer edge of each side
I added 3 more layers of 1/2" wide strips. On the inside where the black plastic piece attaches I added 1 more 1/2"
wide layer. These last inside pieces where just insuance to make sure I had nice wet fresh resin to stick to the black
plastic. It has been quite a while since I had put layers of fiberglass cloth and resin in those spots so it made sense
to add a fresh layer and it also added a second layer of cloth over the bolts. I also painted a layer of resin on the back
of the black plastic before I stuct the 2 together. You can see the bottom 2 bolts the new black plastic piece sits right
on top of them. That was a nice convienient way of making sure the black plastic piece is nice and level.

 

and a while later I can remove the newly molded piece




Now I need to add some fiberglass around the top, I could have done both steps together but it may have been hard to separate the
newly molded piece from the body

 

I sanded up the edges a bit just to clean it up, I'll probably put my rear view camera in the keyhole


and I cut out some flat pieces I will need to fill in around the bottom, a piece of waxed paper
works good to prevent the fiberglass piece from sticking to the flat surface


I put another piece of waxed paper on top and then put another piece of flat wood on top and
a few cans of paint to weigh it down, with the heat from the curing process small flat pieces
can warp or curl up if their not pressed flat


even though the curing of fiberglass resin is a chemical process once the resin has hardened
if it has been covered with waxed paper or molded to a piece of metal the side that was covered
will still be sticky and needs to be exposed to air to finish drying

 

When I original trimmed the 5th gen piece I left a little extra like the rounded lip
I now want to straighten out


This side has had its edge removed


A rotary tool and a sanding drum works well to remove the excess plastic and it helps to roughen up the plastic
so the fiberglass can bond better with it.


now things slow down a bit as I have to wait for individual parts to dry before I
can move onto the next step. Here I've used a couple of blocks of styrofoam to
keep the new pieces of fiberglass at the right height while they bond. Plasticine
and tape can also be used to hold pieces in place while they bond.

 

more cutting and glueing of flat pieces, in this case I can use a bit of tape to hold the
piece in place while it dries, I'm not worried about that little triangular hole, I have to
apply a few layers of fiberglass cloth to the backside so I'll fill it in then


the tape can also act as a hinge so I can flip the piece up to apply the resin


the little side pieces will just be held in place by gravity


I need some curved pieces so I found something with correct radius and wrapped waxed
paper around it


I placed the piece of cloth on another piece of waxed paper


and once it had been soaked with resin I wrapped it around the tube


I used a couple of bottles to hold the sides of the newly attached pieces at the correct
angle, because these pieces are taped along the top the bottom edge tends to pull out


for these side pieces I used a popsicle stick to drip a few drops of resin into the crack
between the 2 pieces


getting a little more shape to it


I think Toyota cheaped out on the 5th gen and didn't make a licence plate holder specific
to the north american market as this holder is quite a bit wider than a north american
license plate


a while later and my curved piece of fiberglass has hardened


so now I can finish framing the blask plastic piece, clothes pins also work to keep pieces in
place


I'm also casting some right angled pieces to use for strengthening purposes