I'd like to hear Stig's thoughts on seafoam.................... I have an issue with putting anything but oil in the hole :shock :hehe
I am kind of nervous about it as well I read a lot of reviews/comments about it and some people say that you will need to change the oil 100 miles after you add seafoam some people say 250 miles. I also read some stuff on this website and it says you don`t need to change the oil after you add it. You can only change it if its due to be changed. http://www.seafoamsales.com/gasoline-engine-faqs.html Also this link answers the oil change question : http://www.seafoamsales.com/after-using-sea-foam-do-i-need-to-change-my-oil.html
something got my attention in the youtube link that I posted earlier : a few tips he didn't tell you.Put the seafoam in your gas and oil first then do the intake. use any Vacuum line. I used brake booster. It's larger and harder to damage. get some 1/4 inch silicone hose from hard ware store, get 2 feet of it to make life easier.don't dip hose. pinch hose and watch seafoam through it since its clear. The hose will cost 2 dollars but will save your back!! Let car sit over night then start it up and rev to 2000 rpm until smoke is gone, change oil emediately. I am wondering if the sequence makes any difference.
my opinion is drive it for ~50 - 100 miles and change the oil. it wont do too much damage but it will clean your inside of your engine, adn you have to remember the dirt from your engine doesnt just disappear it floats around in the oil so Defo change it after 50 ~ 100 mile mark
Very Interesting so far lads........... I'v read plenty on the net as well but I still need convincing with Seafoam.......... Stig's MIA, maybe on holidays DAMMIT :aargh :mrgreen Hey Mafix, your a mechanic, give us your thoughts on Seafoam :thumbsup: Sean, you mentioned cleaning the TB :munch
over in the honda crowd, they recommend putting it in your oil then driving no more than 20 miles before changing it (maybe because they use thinner oil? who knows). but they say put it in the oil when your gas tank is low and you're due for a change. put 1/3 in the oil then 1/3 in your tank, drive for 20 miles, change oil, fill gas, then do the intake through any vacuum line. let sit for close to an hour, then drive the piss out of it, with numerous trips to redline. that's just what they say, take it for what it's worth
stolen from "the fuzz" on ih8mud. if i need to remove it please let me know...edit. permission pending. Ah, Seafoam. Love it or hate it, it's a relatively common product among vehicle enthusiasts. It is designed to clean your intake track and fuel system/injectors, and retails for between $6-$9 per can at your local auto parts store. There are a couple different ways you can use it, described below. Some people think it works (I happen to be in that catagory), some people think that it's a waste of money. The basic premise is that you can do three things with it: 1. Add it to your engine oil to "de-gunk" your crankcase if it has been neglected and there is alot of sludge built up. I won't use it this way, but if you go this route I wouldn't drive more than 100 miles or so before getting an oil change. Thats my personal opinion. 2. Add it to your gas tank. It mixes with the fuel and acts as a more potent version of your standard off-the-shelf fuel/injector cleaner additives. 3. Pull a vacuum line off of your intake manifold (PCV line, brake booster, etc) and slowly pour it in with the engine running, letting the suction inject it into the manifold/cylinders. Let it sit for a half hour or so, then start the car up and go for a spirited drive around town or on the insterstate while white smoke billows from your tail pipe (the smoke is a product of the treatment and dissipates after a couple of minutes). The idea here is that the Seafoam goes in and dissovles carbon deposits, loosens sticking/dirty valves, cleans your injectors, etc, thereby restoring lost power and improving MPG. I have seen mileage improvements on several of my cars after using it, so I am a believer that it does work to some degree. Personally, I do a mix of #2 and #3...something about adding it to the crankcase just doesn't jive with my brain, despite the can saying it's ok. If you would like step by step instructions on how to do the vacuum-line induction style treatment on a Hundy, read on. Note: the vehicle has to be running for this to work, and we are intentionally creating a vacuum leak to feed to the seafoam into the manifold. Keep in mind that there is ALOT of vacuum on this line - so much, that you will notice a rough idle when you start the car. This is normal, don't fret...it goes away as soon as you put the line back on the PCV valve. Now at this point, how you do it is up to you. I usually just open the can of seafoam, grab the line, and pour it in. The vacuum in the line will suck it right in - no funnel or anything needed. Just pour slowly and use between 1/2 and 2/3 of the can. Some people say that when you are almost done pouring it in, "flood" the line with the liquid until the engine stalls. I don't subscribe to that method personally - I just shut the vehicle off with the key. Any time you introduce liquid to an engine in large quantities, there is a risk of hydro locking the engine. Its rare with a product like this, but still possible...up to you how you want to do it, but these motors aint cheap! If it stalls due to the rough idle, so be it, but I don't do it intentionally with the Seafoam. Now, take the remainder of the Seafoam in the can and add it to your gas tank. Shut the vehicle off (if you didn't stall it out), reinstall your PCV line on the PCV valve, and reinstall your engine cover. Now go eat dinner, sweep the garage, re-organize your stamp collection...whatever you want to do to kill about 30-45 minutes of time. Then head back out, start the Hundy up, and prepare for a smoke screen. Go for a spirited drive, get the revs up a bit - white smoke will billow out of your tailpipe for a few minutes. This is normal. The smoke is the product of all the carbon and gunk that the seafoam dissolved, and should dissipate within 3-5 minutes at the most. Thats it, you're done! -remeber this is for a v-8, some steps may be slightly different due to vehicle differences and this is not all of the complete write-up.
I can't comment as it's not available here, I need to see some pics and the list of can contents. What I do know is that anything that's not oil in your motor and you shouldn't drive it - at all. Carbon removing engine flushes all state to let the engine idle for a few minutes to dissolve carbon before draining the oil. Spraying carb/brake/parts cleaner into the manifold does the same job and I think injector cleaner is formulated to work better or there wouldn't be petrol and diesel versions. Substances that remove/dissolve carbon include: caustic soda, paint stripper, tricloroethyline (nasty), petroleum, chloroform and a host of other nasty stuff, my guess is this is some type of petroleum A motor which is running well won't have carbon deposits inside or an oily inlet manifold, so it won't do much but on a motor nearing it's end - It can't do any harm I suppose
Seafoam is petroleum based. I wouldnt use it. Im not a fan of adding anything to my oil except Lucas additives. I run that in everything. First hand experience, I had a Van that had tranny issues, someone told me to use it on that to loosen it up. It worked like a champ for about a month(I did completely change the fluid after a few miles of driving), then it really went south. And it toasted it. If really need think your engine is that gunked up then, you might want to consider other alternatives. Pull the valve covers oil pan and clean them out. My old man is a old hot rodder, back in the day they just used to flush engines with Diesel or Fuel Oil. But Diesel back then and what it is today are two different things. If you go the additive route I would only let the car idle maybe for 10 minutes and a few revs then drain the oil. I would also just get some plain old carb cleaner in a can and clean out the throttle body and others of the like.
I can verify that Years ago I got screwed over, so I bought a bottle of engine flush ($20) and put it in the guys forklift. A few weeks later he was looking for a new engine ($3500) and the downtime cost him plenty. They never could figure how the crank, pistons and cams siezed at the same time and the oil was full.
Don't piss off people who are more devious than you! Honesty is always the best policy in the long run, doesn't win people over but doesn't ruin reputations either
I had an interesting experience with Seafoam. The guy working at O'Reillys at the time suggested it to me and he went as far as to putting it into my brake booster line for me. Needless to say the entire parking lot flooded with white billows of smoke. I also noticed I had a pretty bad exhaust leak from the exhaust manifold then as well. Anyway we also poured it in the oil and I ran it for until I got home to do an oil change. Thats when my rear main leak started
Nice advice here and for me the case is closed, only oil will be going in my motor. I have however always used fuel additives for injectors etc. :lachtot Onya Kev, although fatal I'm very dissapointed that you spent that much :mrgreen. Nice job. Years ago a 'gentleman' gave me and others a hard time over an extended period and even shot a rifle in our direction. I dissloved 1kg of sugar in 2 litres of water and poured it into the fuel tank of his very nice and very expensive restored classic (no no not a celica :mrgreen ). Over the coming days I watched this car as it slowly struggled up the hill on his way to work, it eventually ceased to start. Pricks get what pricks deserve, hit them in the wallet :twisted
^^^ you wouldnt be living if you did that to me as i would find out.........lets just say.....getting under your car without the supports would be really bad judgement.
You guys are too obvious, like my buddy who worked at the airport and stuck Thermite into somebody's motor- It literally welded everything inside together
