Are there one or two nuts holding the clutch master cylinder to the firewall? I read the BGB and it says, "remove nuts" - plural, but I only found one that is on the stud inside the engine bay. Is there a nut on the passenger compartment firewall side too? I couldn't see it if there is.... I removed the clevis pin and everything else but the clutch master cylinder doesn't budge. What am I missing?!
I believe there are two nuts holding it from the clutch pedal under the dash. I took these for reference when I drill it out.
So I figured it out: there is an inside nut that you can't see unless you remove the lower dash trim. It's a 12mm nut and you need a deep socket with a long extension (I had to piece several together). Finally got that bugger out! Summary: 2 nuts, 1 on either side of the firewall.
1 bolt 1 nut, the nut you get at in the engine bay (red arrow) the bolt needs to be removed from under the dash (green arrow) the top hole on the aluminum clutch master cylinder is threaded and the (green) bolt threads into it from the inside of the car
Thanks! I thought I was taking a shortcut by not removing the lower dash trim. It ended up wasting me time, but I finally got it out. Great pics BTW; shows very clearly the nut and stud locations
Couldnt help but notice that the end of you clutch master cylinder was wet on the inside of the firewall. Mine is too, is this a bad thing? or just a sign of a replacement being due later down the road?
^Yep, mine was wet too - a sure sign that it's leaking and will need replacement sooner rather than later. Mine was fine one day and then it drained out overnight and left me stranded.
Great, now the threads for the clutch line appear to be a bit galled. Took everything apart again to try to get them to line up and it just won't thread in tonight. Will try tomorrow. God, these simple jobs on old cars sometimes turn into a royal PITA
Hey, has anyone ever replaced the clutch hard steel line with the engine and tranny still in the car? Just checking b/c my threads looked galled and I may have to replace the hard line...ugh
there's a few celicas at ralph's that i used to practice on clutch lines lol. my slave cylinder just died on me the other day with no warning at a stoplight, $30 later from lordco and 30 mins on the side of a road and all was good
Picked up a clutch hard line (the one leading to the clutch master cylinder) from a friend. I have no idea how I'm gonna replace it with such tight clearance. If anyone has any tips or tricks, I'd love to hear 'em. I'm gonna see if I can reach it from underneath. Dave's pic below. Of course, my engine is still in the car, making it a quite bit harder...
Geeze making me give up all my little secrets..... - I would start on top of the tranny and disconnect the clutch hard line that goes from the flexible line to the clutch slave cylinder (green arrow) - then I would either disconnect the flexible line from the tranny bracket (red arrow) (prefered method) - or I would un bolt the flexible line bracket from the tranny and leave it connected to the flexible line (red arrow) (less desirable method) - then I would dis connect the bracket at the other end of the flexible line from the brake fluid splitter box, (red arrow) can't remember if its a 10 mm nut or bolt but its going to go through the bracket and the brake fluid splitter box and into the firewall. You may be able to reach it from the top if you take of your air intake tube or you may have to get the bolt/nut from underneath. - then I would remove the 2 10 mm bolts that clamp the lines to the firewall (green arrows) and remove the clamps so the lines are free of eachother - then I would dis connect the clutch line from the master cylinder - then i would pull the steel line and the attached flex line up along the firewall, you may actually want to remove the hood before you start Then I would attach your flex line and firewall bracket to the new steel clutch line, it's like 1,000,000,000,000 times easier to make this connection when the 2 pieces are lying in front of you on the garage floor So really my big tip is remove the flex line along with the master cylinder hard line it makes life soooooooo much easier. If you pull the 2 big bolts on your front and rear engine mounts you may be able to rotate the engine forward a bit and give yourself an inch or 2 more clearance between the firewall and intake manifold Now you have more hope of sucess than the Vancouver Canuck's :smug
Clutch master cylinder, now there's a bloody job. I just rebuilt my RHD one with the parts from a brand new LHD one. Getting it off and putting it back on the car was the hardest part!
Dave, thanks so much for the detailed directions - you are indeed the guru! The 2 nuts on the brake splitter box are 10mm. I found that I could reach them from underneath; I dropped the cross member and my front down pipe to get access to them.
Yup, kudos to Dave again, I gotta love the attention to detail and it's like straight out of a manual :shock :thumbsup:
Anything I can do to help, the easier it is to fix our 4th gens the longer they will remain on the road Ha doubt it, I would split that tittle between Stig and Mafix
Well, I know you've been over every inch of the ST162 and taken apart virtually every part there is to take apart, so you're still a guru in my books. All is fine now, much thanks amigo
