So last summer I started driving my car (ST162 of course :tongue: ) Anyway at random times it would start up and then immediatley die. It would keep doing this until I gave it gas and then it ran rough. But after driving it would be ok. It happened about once a week but stopped as it got colder. Well ever since it decided to get warm in december it has started again. Any ideas what might be causing it? Its on a 3S-GE.
i would check your coolant temp sender ( ohm it out ) ill get back to ya on the spec. Or could be an iac problem(idle air control) does it still have high idle when cold? if so iac is prob functioning.
sorry tried adding the specs via image couldnt figure out how ....if you could guide me on how to upload an image i could help u
ok thanx i had a graph to share about the temp vs ohm reading on that temp sender for ecu , i have to get back to work but i will try to post it within a couple of hours.....and any cheapie meter will do the trick but i love my fluke ...money well spent.
Yea flukes are amazing, but im a broke college kid so probably not going to happen anytime soon. haha its wierd how it only happens when its warm and I have to rev it pretty high to get her going. Could the injectors have anything to do with this?
could also be cold start time switch those were very common testing those is virtually the same but you can actually pull the cold start inj and watch it to see if it is over active it should only spray for 1 to 2 secs when dead cold on a warm start i believe they arenot needed thus reving high helps clean out the unneeded fuel. On a cold engine in cold temps engines like lots of fuel thats why summer time or hotter weather your problem gets worse....of course this is just pattern failures and common problems im sharing hard to diag a car i cant see....but let me know if you need any specs ill just type them manually i gave up trying to up load pics today..
I understand and Thanks for the help. I have a Haynes manual for the car and it says it could be loose or faulty connections at the distributor, coli or alternator, Insufficent fuel reaching injectors, or a vaccum leak in the gasket between the intake manifold/plenum and throttle body.
coolant temp sender: bottom shiny one with blue plug. it could be on anywhere around the coolant neck as it differs on each car:
-the coolant temp sender is only linked to the gauge, so if your gauge is incorrect this would be the one to replace. -for starting problems like stated above, youd want to replace the start time injector switch. ricks is an 89 so if you have an 86,87,88 the plug will be square. the start time injection switch controls the duration of time that the cold start injector is used and when. it determines this by monitoring the coolant temp. -if the switch is bad or reading an incorrect temperature, the csi system will not work properly. this will show up more dramatically in warmer temps since the coolant will take longer to cool and "reset" the system to a temp where the csi will fire or give a proper volume. :thumbsup:
Thanks J for the rundown!! :thumbsup: Now I think I have a better Idea where to look. One more question, How many ohms of resistance should I be reading on the start time injector switch?
30 to 50 ohms below 50 degrees f 70 to 90 ohms above 77 degrees f and the brown square sensor 2 pin is time switch and the green 2 pin is the coolant sender for computer the one pin as stated above is for guage....good luck i hope this helps
By golly this is clever stuff dudes, I had no idea these sensors on the coolant neck could affect so many 2nd and 3rd 'operations'......... as I look in my Haynes repair manual I can now see how these sensors work........... if I start having these issues I'll now know where to start looking............ I reckon spiedr is close to solving his starting probs :thumbsup: