Problem....

Discussion in 'Diagnosis/Help' started by spiedr0722, Dec 16, 2011.

  1. spiedr0722

    spiedr0722 Well-Known Member Donated!

    So last summer I started driving my car (ST162 of course :tongue: ) Anyway at random times it would start up and then immediatley die. It would keep doing this until I gave it gas and then it ran rough. But after driving it would be ok. It happened about once a week but stopped as it got colder. Well ever since it decided to get warm in december it has started again. Any ideas what might be causing it? Its on a 3S-GE.
     
  2. t100celicadrvr

    t100celicadrvr Well-Known Member Donated!

    i would check your coolant temp sender ( ohm it out ) ill get back to ya on the spec. Or could be an iac problem(idle air control) does it still have high idle when cold? if so iac is prob functioning.
     
  3. t100celicadrvr

    t100celicadrvr Well-Known Member Donated!

    welcome to the site im a newbie as well...but ive been working on toyotas for 15 years.
     
  4. t100celicadrvr

    t100celicadrvr Well-Known Member Donated!

    sorry tried adding the specs via image couldnt figure out how ....if you could guide me on how to upload an image i could help u
     
  5. spiedr0722

    spiedr0722 Well-Known Member Donated!

    My idle is around 1500 when cold. So Thats good. I guess Ill need to get a meter now haha
     
  6. Seank90

    Seank90 Well-Known Member Donated!

    you need to add them using an IMG code
     
  7. eNtraxGT88

    eNtraxGT88 Well-Known Member Donated!

    you have to upload your pics via an external site. then use the img html code to put them on here.
     
  8. t100celicadrvr

    t100celicadrvr Well-Known Member Donated!

    ok thanx i had a graph to share about the temp vs ohm reading on that temp sender for ecu , i have to get back to work but i will try to post it within a couple of hours.....and any cheapie meter will do the trick but i love my fluke ...money well spent.
     
  9. spiedr0722

    spiedr0722 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Yea flukes are amazing, but im a broke college kid so probably not going to happen anytime soon. haha its wierd how it only happens when its warm and I have to rev it pretty high to get her going. Could the injectors have anything to do with this?
     
  10. t100celicadrvr

    t100celicadrvr Well-Known Member Donated!

    could also be cold start time switch those were very common testing those is virtually the same but you can actually pull the cold start inj and watch it to see if it is over active it should only spray for 1 to 2 secs when dead cold on a warm start i believe they arenot needed thus reving high helps clean out the unneeded fuel. On a cold engine in cold temps engines like lots of fuel thats why summer time or hotter weather your problem gets worse....of course this is just pattern failures and common problems im sharing hard to diag a car i cant see....but let me know if you need any specs ill just type them manually i gave up trying to up load pics today..
     
  11. spiedr0722

    spiedr0722 Well-Known Member Donated!

    I understand and Thanks for the help. I have a Haynes manual for the car and it says it could be loose or faulty connections at the distributor, coli or alternator, Insufficent fuel reaching injectors, or a vaccum leak in the gasket between the intake manifold/plenum and throttle body.
     
  12. spiedr0722

    spiedr0722 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Hey t100 where exactly is the coolant temp sender?
     
  13. Rick89GTS

    Rick89GTS Well-Known Member Moderator Donated!

    ^Are you referring to the fan switch sensor? On the 3SGE, it's on mounted on the T-stat housing:

    [​IMG]
     
  14. spiedr0722

    spiedr0722 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Ok thanks Rick!!!
     
  15. Rick89GTS

    Rick89GTS Well-Known Member Moderator Donated!

    The coolant sender is on the water neck coming off the cylinder head.

    [​IMG]

    View from underneath:
    [​IMG]
     
  16. eNtraxGT88

    eNtraxGT88 Well-Known Member Donated!

    coolant temp sender:
    bottom shiny one with blue plug. it could be on anywhere around the coolant neck as it differs on each car:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  17. jwagner162

    jwagner162 Well-Known Member Donated!

    -the coolant temp sender is only linked to the gauge, so if your gauge is incorrect this would be the one to replace.

    -for starting problems like stated above, youd want to replace the start time injector switch. ricks is an 89 so if you have an 86,87,88 the plug will be square. the start time injection switch controls the duration of time that the cold start injector is used and when. it determines this by monitoring the coolant temp.

    -if the switch is bad or reading an incorrect temperature, the csi system will not work properly. this will show up more dramatically in warmer temps since the coolant will take longer to cool and "reset" the system to a temp where the csi will fire or give a proper volume.

    :thumbsup:
     
  18. spiedr0722

    spiedr0722 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Thanks J for the rundown!! :thumbsup: Now I think I have a better Idea where to look. One more question, How many ohms of resistance should I be reading on the start time injector switch?
     
  19. t100celicadrvr

    t100celicadrvr Well-Known Member Donated!

    30 to 50 ohms below 50 degrees f 70 to 90 ohms above 77 degrees f and the brown square sensor 2 pin is time switch and the green 2 pin is the coolant sender for computer the one pin as stated above is for guage....good luck i hope this helps
     
  20. Spiderman

    Spiderman Well-Known Member

    By golly this is clever stuff dudes, I had no idea these sensors on the coolant neck could affect so many 2nd and 3rd 'operations'......... as I look in my Haynes repair manual I can now see how these sensors work........... if I start having these issues I'll now know where to start looking............ I reckon spiedr is close to solving his starting probs :thumbsup:
     

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