How do you "Burp" the cooling system (3S GE)?

Discussion in 'Diagnosis/Help' started by vicdat, Apr 6, 2012.

  1. vicdat

    vicdat Well-Known Member

    OK I'm excited about the prospect of finally solving this lively thread. I couldn't get around to those items last night (I'm an old guy), but for sure my goal is to get this baby up and driveable by the end of the weekend...first I'll disconnect the fan sensor at the T-stat housing; that should make the fans run all the time...right? If so, then I'll drive it around. If if doesn't spike does that mean I need to replace it???
    If it does spike should I reconnect it and do the gauge?

    Vicdat
     
  2. ST165-2765

    ST165-2765 Well-Known Member Donated!

    :nopityYeah well that's a pretty weeeeeeeeeeeezy excuse unless your older than me (52) in which case I apologize :ugh


    Yes your fan should run constantly at least the one on the drivers side (north american market) with the T-stat sensor unpluged


    If it doesn't spike then we need to test the sensor, but I do believe it's still going to spike

    Yes


    I think you should give me a better idea of what you mean by spiking
    -are you having to shut the car off to prevent the guage from going into the red ?
    -if not is it cycling up and down regularly, is there a pattern or are the temp spikes completely random ?
    -will it spike while just idling in your driveway ?

    Change the guage......
     
  3. vicdat

    vicdat Well-Known Member

    Hey 2765, Apology accepted (born in 1952). Owned Datsuns (and a couple Toys) continuously since 1969 (had a '73 Dat 610 2-door hardtop for over 32 years)...
    By spiking I mean that after a few miles of running and the temp gets up to about halfway, the gauge will slowly and continuously climb, once close to 3/4 it will start to bounce toward the redm especially if I give it more throttle (then it seems to stay up near the red. If I slow down or stop it comes down a bit, but will keep bouncing into the red if driven with any enthusiasm. Power will feel way down and it feels like it's in some sort of limp mode. The first time it did this bad (about a month ago) I drove all the way back from Santa Monica to L.A. on side streets and as long as I drove it very easy the gauge would stay around half. Later that day I tightened the single spade on the connector and it ran fine for one or two days...maybe I should also replace that connector...
     
  4. ST165-2765

    ST165-2765 Well-Known Member Donated!

    I can't see how tightening that connector would help. If you unplug that sensor your temp guage should read cold not hot so if you have a bad connection the temp
    should be dipping not spiking and according to the wiring diagrams that sensor only provides a signal to the gauge so it should not effect the ECU. But anythings possible
    so I'd give it a try.

    You must have a flow issue either coolant or air, I am still thinking it's your fan, even if it is running it may be on its way out. It may have worked okay during the winter
    but now that the weather is warmer it can't keep up. It may also not be the correct fan, if it has been replaced in the past it may have been replaced with a fan from a
    manual car which is alot less powerful. How does the radiator look ? Fins are fairly clean and air is able to pass through easilly ?

    How wide is the motor on your fan ?
    [​IMG]

    I don't take any chances, I don't have AC but I have still installed a second aftermarket fan
    a huge dual core aluminum rad and run both fans constantly.
    [​IMG]
     
  5. vicdat

    vicdat Well-Known Member

    So I disconnected the fan sensor from the Tstat housing and like you said both fans stayed on. I fired it up and it ran a little rough then the engine died and now it won't restart! I haven't checked but I don't think its getting spark because it doesn't seem to even try to catch...
    I'm running out of options. I don't know much about these newer vehicles and I don't have a lot of tools, time, or patience.
     
  6. ST165-2765

    ST165-2765 Well-Known Member Donated!

    How old is the timing belt ?
    I would take off the top timing belt cover and check the timing marks if your unsure of how old it is.
    It is a possible reason for overheating and would explain poor engine performance and if
    it jumps enough teeth it won't start.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  7. vicdat

    vicdat Well-Known Member

    Had a valve job and new timing belt less than 20,000 miles ago...I'm going to check and see if I plugged something in wrong and check for spark...I wonder if its a head gasket issue

    Vic
     
  8. ST165-2765

    ST165-2765 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Can't see it beeing the head gasket you said that a compression test showed 180 on all cylinders
    and you did a pressure test on the cooling system and your not loosing coolant
     
  9. vicdat

    vicdat Well-Known Member

    I chacked for spark and didn't see any jump at a plug; I did see a weak spark jump off of the coil...I think that my battery is weak from sitting sooo long. I'm charging it now and hope that it fires back up later on.

    Vic
     
  10. vicdat

    vicdat Well-Known Member

    Update: 4 year old AutoZone battery won't take a charge, and their meter said "bad"...I assume that it will start properly with a new one.
     
  11. ST165-2765

    ST165-2765 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Of course a weak battery could also cause your fan to perform poorly, lets hope a new battery solves both issues
     
  12. eNtraxGT88

    eNtraxGT88 Well-Known Member Donated!

    good luck! damn 4 years...that's really short
     
  13. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    Understandable if it's been standing for a long time, lead acid batteries need to be kept working hard for a long life.
    Let them stand and they soon die, if you don't charge them within a short time they will not be able to take charge again.
    It's a huge problem when manufacturers stockpile cars
     
  14. vicdat

    vicdat Well-Known Member

    I'm on my way to pick up a new battery but I've got a fearling that it still won't start then because I just tried jump starting it and "no go". Engine turns over strong but it doesn't sound like there's any spark.
    What could have caused this immediately after I disconnected the plug (on the T-stat housing) to road test it with the fans on by default?
     
  15. ST165-2765

    ST165-2765 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Check the altenator plug, other than that you just have AC plugs and the T-stat sensor plug in that area
     
  16. ST165-2765

    ST165-2765 Well-Known Member Donated!

    The most common 3sg(t)e ignition problem is a poor ground for the ignitor it must be physically grounded to the chassis
    other than that check over the coil and distributor wiring
     
  17. vicdat

    vicdat Well-Known Member

    I just put in the new battery...no difference; cranks strong but won't start. Maybe its the coil...
     
  18. ST165-2765

    ST165-2765 Well-Known Member Donated!

    I'd check the EFI fuse and the 2 fuseable links on the positive battery cable
     
  19. vicdat

    vicdat Well-Known Member

    Great suggestions 2765..where exactly are they located??? Do you have a diagram or pic?
     
  20. ST165-2765

    ST165-2765 Well-Known Member Donated!

    efi fuse
    [​IMG]

    fuseable links are attached to the positive battery cable am1 & am2
    [​IMG]
     

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