I've got the bottom bolt off, but I can't get the top one off, because there is no bolt there? Like this on the other side, both on the rear. I need to get it off so I can grease the sliders. EDIT: Well, I got one side off, but the other is rusted on. I heard someone say use a torch, but I don't have one and don't want to burn the rubber hoses. Tried WD-40, no luck. The sliding pin is rusted on the caliper, so it turns with the caliper, not stationary like it should be. So I can't just turn and push the caliper like I did the other side.
well that sucks. it won't rotate at all? if you can unbolt the whole caliper and bracket, remove the brake line, put it in a vice and use a pipe to make it rotate.
The caliper rotates freely, but the pin rotates with it, so I can't get it off. Also, the part where the strut bolts to the hub prevents me from fitting a ratchet there, and the lip around the bracket prevents me from getting a wrench in there. Maybe I'm looking at it wrong, I'll check later.
Yeah I tried to take my rear calipers off today and had the same problem, couldn't figure out how to get the top part off but after reading some info I found I managed to figure it out. Though when I tried to rotate the caliper up it wouldn't budge; I actually was pulling the suspension up. So I have the same problem
Heat works when all else fails. A propane torch doesn't cost that much and is small enough to get in there. Bend up some sheet metal and rig it in place with wire to shield the rubber hoses from heat. Then bash it with a rubber mallet to free it up. Wear eye/face protection and leather gloves!
I figured this out on my own a few days ago. What you do is take that metal cap off of the top bolt, use pliers or a flat head screw driver...be careful not to bend it if you use pliers. Inside is a bolt. I think it's a 10mm, if not try 8mm. You will need a deep socket. I used a 1/4 inch deep socket, a 3/8 might work but I didn't try it and the outer diameter might be too big to fit in the caliper. Take that out and you might need to hammer the slider out. You can use the socket you used to get the bolt out to hammer the slider out. Inspect the slider, if you have a new one use it. If you think it is savable and you don't have a new one you can clean up the slider with a wire brush (bench grinder with a wire brush helped greatly!) You may need to clean some rust out of the caliper where it slides if the slider still will not slide freely. I used a dremel, if you cut too much there will be a gap between the slider and the caliper, which is bad and might cause vibrations. You might be able to just used sand paper rolled around something round. Inspect the rubber boots around the slider, as a rusted slider is probably because of the a broken boot. Replace the boot and grease the slider. Put back together and enjoy. My guess is a lot of mechanics don't take the top bolt off to get to the brakes, so the top sliders don't get regreased and they seize more often. Make sure your mechanic doesn't skip this step, or you if you are doing it.
Ah nice find Charger...I was wondering if there was anything under that cap but never bothered to try (didn't have time when I was doing it tbh). I'm gonna do this tonight or tomorrow. What do you recommend to grease it? Plain o' bearing grease? Thanks! -Tanner.
I just used some high temperature, high pressure, water resistant, rust preventive, etc grease. Make sure it doesn't effect the rubber though. I believe the grease I used was meant for bearings. Auto stores have special brake grease for this, not sure how much different it is though.
