4th Gen Heater QUICK FIX and PERMANENT FIX

You should at the very least get cold air blowing out, so I'd say it sounds like the blower motor or blower motor relay is out.
Check all your fuses and relays first.
The blower motor relay is under the blower motor, I posted a pic of the relay on page 2 of this thread.
It's below the glove box, mounted on the housing and it's held in by only 1 screw.

 

It took me forever to find the relay that you were talking about, silly cramped spaces. But yes, it was broken. Thanks a ton!

And for the things not moving/working some plugs werent in all the way and they work great now. >.>

 

Glad to help

 

I've been having similiar issues getting my heater to work. I've tried quick fix #1 and #2 with no luck. I've also noticed that coolant has started to leak into the passenger side under the dash where the clip is. :cry

 

Sounds like you may have a clogged heater core.

 

hm, for me everything works except for the flap that directs the air from the blower motor to either hot or cold. if i manually move the flap i can get hot and cold. when i use the cold/hot slider on the controls, i can hear a motor whirring but it's not moving the flap...

 

^If you unhook that control arm, you can get it to stay hot or cold.

 

If its clogged should I just flush it out or have it replaced? It stopped leaking after I reversed steps #1 and #2.

 

Try a flush first; looks like it's a pain to remove it

 

If you can hear a motor whirring when you switch from hot/cold on the temperature controls, but your air temp does not change, it could be this too:

right above the ECU is this motor that controls that flap. you have to unhook a control arm, the cable that runs through the firewall, and 3 bolts.
chances are that the planetary gears inside are fuuuu'd. check EVERY gear inside. there's 1 metal gear, and 4 or 5 plastic ones.

you can see the extra motor i have in the background of the picture. the bottom part of the gear is all grinded out from wear.

temp fix: if it's just the big white gear that's grinded up, rotate the gear so that the grinded part of the gear is the furthest away from the silver gear.

 

Good tip
Mine sometimes doesn't switch over, the flaps and valve are new so I suspect my
gears may have gone too.
Pity the LHD and RHD are opposites, lucky I kept a complete set spare

 

Hey eNtraxGT88, that's a great pic; I've never seen that part before. Good job :thumbsup:

 

it shouldn't be this problem though. this only happens i bet if the cable thru the firewall is REALLY stuck and the little motor tries to continue working. with the cable stuck, and this motor keeps going, eventually jumping/breaking teeth in those gears

 

Theirs a little bit more to be done than just rotating the big plastic wheel 180 degrees. If you look on
the other side of the wheel theirs lots of electrical contacts


So to do the job properly you need to pop out the 4 contact strips and rotate them 180 degrees also


and now ready to put back together


The big wheel never rotates more than 45 degrees so you could only rotate everything 45 degrees
and then you would still be able to repair it 3 more times

 

AH damn i knew there had to be something more than just rotating the gear...i did not know the metal things come out. so far i haven't had a problem just rotating the gear, but it's probably the best idea to do this extra step while the gear is out anyways.

thanks for checkin up on that!

 

Is this site (and its members) amazing or what?! Nice work guys :thumbsup:

 

:iagree Interesting, nice work :cheers

Once you've used the 1st 2 slots I think you're down to 2, not 3 but that's
enough for the next 3 decades or so
Nice to see a part that has some redundancy built in at the factory

 

cross country team work. woo!

only if that cable through the firewall (still don't know the name of it) stays lubricated!

 

What size does the T have to be? Thinking of getting this done now, try to flush the shait out of it. I pray to God that its only some crap stuck in the heater radiator...

 

It's working.

After soldering Pins 1 and 10, the heater slide lever is now working. Thanks for this informative write up.

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I do have another issue however. Although the heater slide lever is making things move behind the console, there's a clicking noise when I move the heating slide lever from about mid to the right (more clicking occurs when all the way to the right). I looked under the passenger's left foot area, and saw there's certain part's that are clicking or hanging up down there.

I disconnected the piano wire underneath the hood and it clicks substantially less, although there's still some clicking when the lever is all the way to the right (hot). When I put the piano wire back on, it clicks alot more, again from about mid to right. There's little or no heat, or luke warmness.

So I'm believing the valve thing underneath the hood which the piano wire goes around is not opening easily enough. I can open and close it with my hand and it's not that resistant, but resistant enough? Is this valve a suspect? Is there someway to make it open easier assuming that's the problem?

Thanks again.