my old scrap

should get a bump in power as the gen 2 pistons are higher compression. if you werent already youl wanna be running 98 octane and dont go crazy on timing

 

It will work but you lose the benefit of the gen2 cams which don't fit the gen1 head
I also thought of porting the gen2 head to take the gen1 inlet manifold, I'm sure it can be done.

I think you should at least re-con the head and block, the valve seals will be hard and the bearings/rings will be near finished.
A ST182 harness should fit, what I mean is the ECU section only

Here's the gen2 block/gen1 head


Gen2 block, FE head, Gen2 exhaust


Another option is to use the 5S Camry crank and pistons with GE rods, skim the block and head, remove 3mm from the pistons and re-size the crank to 3S big ends or use 5S rods which aren't as strong

 

Put the exhaust next to each other and show us -
I think the MR2 exhaust will be better for torque and make more power over the 4-1 system, and it looks closer to those offered by HKS etc.
Remember Yamaha was behind the head design at a time when 2L 16V engines were new and all the rage and Toyota needed to establish themselves as a serious sports car maker - the rest is history.

If you don't use the gen2 head/cams you can use the cams to grind some mean cams for the gen1 head, the gen1 cams are lacking in lift and duration and the lobes are a lot smaller

 

There are quite a few turbo cars here running 280deg+, so I think that will work OK.
With 16v engines it's not so much the timing but lift is a factor as well, lift is limited to 8,5mm with the gen1 head, 9,5mm with the gen2 head and 10,5mm with the gen3.(rough guide)

With a 16-20v it's possible to "stall" airflow by keeping the valves open too long, same goes for porting 2 stroke and rotary motors.
Many confuse 8V and 16V cam timing, you just can't compare the two directly as the flow rates are completely different.

So the later 3S motors may have "crappy" valve timing at 1st glance, they in fact flow more due to the added valve lift
I think we need to experiment with cams to find the best combo for each head type

 

Use the gen2 one, the other the primaries are too short and the firing order is wrong.

Use the gen2 pistons if you can, but honestly you need new o/s pistons and a rebore + bearings

You can't swap them around but you can cut the gen2 down to gen1 specs

No porting needed other than to smooth casting marks, I also remove the sharp edge in the chambers as air doesn't flow well around corners.
TVIS is a problem for all, the screw threads need to be peened with a hammer so they can never come loose

Probably cheaper to buy a head set?
5S gasket will work but better to use a metal gen3 type

Can you repair your old head?
Which head are you going to use?

 

The gen1 3sge didnt come with a knock sensor

 

should be fine!

 

That is the downfall of the gen1 block/ecu - the turbo does have it though!
I have it fitted but there's no way to get it working with the gen1 GE ecu

I have some new H/Gaskets and lose gasket sets if you need

 

I don't have or buy full sets, here we buy them seperate. OEM gasket set is something like $400.(R3000)
There are a few cheap sets on OZ ebay, also some cheap in USA, ie - http://www.trademotion.com/parts/19...group=ENGINE&component=VALVE GRIND GASKET KIT
Normally I find them on TradeME with some parts missing, at SupaCheap Auto I think I paid $25ea for the rocker gaskets last time and $50 for the distributor kit

What happened to Eportuning.com? are they still in business as a full gasket set was under $100
I'm sure the guys here will point us to some cheaper gasket sets.

I won't try gumming the intake manifold, those TVIS gaskets are pretty thin and already prone to leaks

Spotted these as well: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=491798564

 

Pump & injectors should be OK at your altitude, best is get a dyno tune once it's running to confirm.
You can always use the gen2 injectors if needed, but will need to swap the connectors as well

Need to see the H/Gasket, some FE gaskets don't have enough holes for good flow. I always drill my gen1 heads to promote flow as well as I don't believe the water flows properly above the chambers.

Later heads have even more holes and bigger water chambers. the 503 race heads have even more


ECU should be good, you can richen it up if needed by adjusting the AFM.

Cams have cutouts near the pulleys to line them up


What worries me is if the cams were cut, do you still have enough lobe for the shims? My stock cams are at the shim limit already (3.2mm).
Check your shim clearances - 0.15 inlet and 0.20 exhaust are the ideal