my old scrap

That gauge definitely isn't right
The cams (HKS) at 280deg run fine on a GTE with a light flywheel, lumpy idle but very lively. The guys I know have Link ECU's but your's should work fine.
If your shims were out it would clack like a train when cold.
I still believe you have a cam timing issue or TVIS is jammed or a major vacuum/air leak.
Large duration cams will drop your compression so don't be alarmed if the compression is lower than expected.

 

Check the clearances again -
You shouldn't push the feeler gauge in, it's a pita as often I've set them and then had to go and set them again.
This will affect your idle and compression (as Willie said) and more important you could burn valves very easily, it's always better to err on the loose side than go too tight.
The old folks always had a saying - "A loose tappet is a happy tappet" - still true today

The AFM dial - you should mark it before making any changes. Basically anti clockwise = richer and clockwise = leaner.
Go too far either way and it affects the idle

Yes the gen2 (315's) I think are too rich for your altitude, I'm running 5S-FE (300's) now at sea level and I think still a little rich but hard to tell without getting it on the dyno.
At 4km above sea level I think you will be better with the stock 246cc browns as those were intended for sea level use

You need better friends with some electrical and engine knowledge?
See if you can find Nols Corneillesen in Turffontein - he was doing Haltech conversions and building 400hp 4A-GTE's when last I saw him.
Mannie Maringues has a shop opp Pure & Cool on Jules str (next to Viva Engineering) but I believe he's crazy expensive,
at least these guys have heard of 3S motors
My best mate Mark works for Viva and he's a sharp mechanic & ex racer but not good with electrics - 084 328 2379

 

He has a g/f in Dinwiddie and can help or knows people who can help, tell him I said he needs to see what a real engine looks like (He's a pro on Beetle and Golf engines)

 

Pity, Mark is a genius with modding race engines but has lost all motivation in life - sorry. I saw myself going the same way after finding my ex of 10yrs in bed with her brother......long story, but a big part of why I ended up here.

Mike Mitton was the leader of Chapter 13, the meanest of the mean and himself jailed a few times for rape (boys and girls) and greivous harm/homocide etc.
I think the world is better now we don't have him screamin down the highway taking pot shots at cars and crapping on lounge suites at the Elangeni Hotel (we used to go there for ice cream on a sunday morning, 1200km in under 7hrs)

Timing needs to be 10deg before TDC. I set my car by ear to where it wants to idle best and that's around 20deg BTCD which is too much due to the cam mods so at 10deg it sounds a little rough but pulls smoothly and doesn't detonate.

 

If it were me I'd be there 24/7 till we got it sorted....

Put your hand or a piece of cardboard over the exhaust at idle - the pulses should be smooth with no hiccups
If it's not smooth the chances are 90% your cam timing is out

Here you see I mark the pulley and belt with a china marker to get a better view, dunno if you can see the other line but this was 1 tooth off before.
The ridges on the inner cover are a good TDC indicator - so not neccessary to remove the rocker cover



I mark both belts and pulleys before doing anything so if something slips I can see it straight away, put a long nall on the cam bolt and visualise a line to the belt, then draw your marks.
Sounds easly/stupid but the rear cam is a pita to see properly and super easy to f/up


Bottom pulley must be in line, here you can see I marked both sides to get a better view


If one is out - loosen the tensioner and push it back with one hand while locking it down with a 14 ring spanner in the other hand (DON'T use open spanners, unless you like broken fingers and bolts),
then pull the belt upward between the two cam pulleys, this gives enough slack to move the pulley.

Clamp the other pulley with a small clamp or locking plier, peg etc.
Put a 14 spanner on the cam bolt and slowly pull the belt off the pulley
till it's off, keep it there while you move the pulley with the spanner to the correct position and slowly push the belt back on.

Hold the belt on the pulley while you undo the tensioner, leave it undone and check ALL your marks.
Tighten the tensioner slightly and then turn the crank with a 19 socket on a power bar, turn it 2x around in a clockwise direction (NEVER turn anti-clocwise, even if you miss your mark!)

RE-check your marks and tension, don't be tempted to remove all slack as this will wreck the bearings.
Loosen the tensioner and flex the belt between the oil pulley and tensioner to see the tensioner moving and not stuck - tighten the tensioner.

Turn the motor forward again 2 revolutions and check again - repeat if neccessary

The motor should now idle smoothly - if not check the timing with a light on the 10deg mark.
If the idle is still not even chances are you have a bad plug, rotor, wire, or cap - if not I'm afraid you may have a tight or dead valve/s

Hope this helps

 

Its much easier to set the timing with the valve covers off!

Not practical but you can get a proper idea about the rear cam! a little more work for a lot less hassle

 

lol Sean - try telling that to GTE owners and you will learn some new swear words

I already showed Fernando that, this is the quick & easy way

 

Always had GE's never worked on a GTE
Its defo a PITA to work on it like that, but from the times i didnt know about the cam markings i found a small mirror was a lifesaver!