Alternator is the same, you can even get a adapter to run later oval plug alternators, will discuss the harness later The gen1 pipe is a dog compared to the gen2 and prone to cracks, you'll have to mate it to your pipe and fit a O2 sensor as well, swap to a 3/4 wire sensor now while you can, (pics etc are on my thread) ditch the cat too while you can. Rack should be identical, not sure if the ABS has sensors on the rack like the Curren I stole one from. As for the wiring you are going to have to split the harness open and replace the ECU, gen2 has different style injector plugs, dizzy plug etc. There is no AFM or T-VIS on the Gen2 either but it has MAP sensor and knock sensors fitted as well as a 4 wire O2 which runs down the back of the motor If you are not confident I suggest getting a sparky to help you! One thing I have been meaning to do is to split the harness and run the alternator, thermostat and A/C wires across the radiator, saving a lot of crap running around the head and making teardowns easier.
Kevin I got my steering rack back from the guy's they found no problems with it so it must of been my pump. mine as no sensor's will be posting picture's soon of the whole lot of things .
I wondered about that Also I noted you have a branch already, show us the branch but I fear it has the wrong firing order
Here are some photo's of the motor I am busy with, this week-end did nothing as it was very cold Headers which came with the motor will be keeping them on. installed pump etc and put alternator on the other side wiring I still did not get to it will split and ext them to the other side like I was told better option. wiring loom with fuse box will still ask questions how to go about it later this is how it look's like on the back side of the engine wiring all fitted to the motor is 100% even to the emission exhaust will mod it to fit on to mine from where it is cut off. this is my brake calliper This box is what do I need to have it connected again? My ABS and brake booster Steering rack which as returned with no problems.
The box is your igniter (CDI) unit, should be a plug for it on the MR2 harness, I think on the MR2 it sits near the air intake/distributor. Split the MR2 harness open, keep only what you need from the ECU to the motor, use your exsisting Alternator, A/C wiring, fuses etc. Lucky the MR2 ECU sits in the boot, roughly the same position as ours but closer so the wires may be too short or fit the ECU below your cubby One problem you will face is to swap the fan sensor to the MR2 waterpump housing, lucky the MR2 has a threaded hole for it, ST182 doesn't. You will note the gen2 thermostat is bigger and pipe is different but the pump itself is swappable. For now I suggest using your old exhaust (Its a Genie?), you're going to have to cut the MR2 header way before the O2 and make a new section - may as well make a whole new bigger xorst as the gen1 is pretty skinny with a cat under the gearlever. ABS brakes are weird, never seen them here on AT/ST16x's - calipers look similar to ST202 items
Here's the pics of my gen2 header conversion http://www.st162.net/forum/showthre...ore-jdm-oddities&p=40513&viewfull=1#post40513
Thanks Kevin I see a lot of info on that thread which I can use do you really think I should wrap the header as well? Then what I see on your oil filter you still have the oil cooler on but blocked pipes, on mine I removed it completely and put the oil filter on to the block is that ok.
The header wrap is nice at 1st but unless you use expensive high temp wrap (1000deg +) it decays fast. Be sure to use thick gloves as the fiberglass goes right thru surgical gloves, I did it to stop the bonnet liner getting burnt but even with the wrap and a heat pad on the bonnet it still takes a lot of heat. Moving the flange forward was one of my best ideas, easy to drop the sump without touching crossmembers etc I ran like that cuz I couldn't find the screw in filter holder, I also ran without the cooler for a while but the oil definitely stays cooler with it working when the motor is pushed hard, Without it I nuked my oil in 7 laps and lost all oil pressure - for the new motor I'll be fitting a air/oil cooler instead
No JDM has an air/oil cooler or I would. I have a gen1 GTE block on the bench, Dave has made me a turbo feed blanking spacer but I'm thinking of using that to run an a/m air/oil cooler as well as the GTE water/oil cooler - overkill? ps. my idea of an oil cooler is equivalent to an RX7, VW type4 or similar. Another idea is to use gravity feed from the sump to an external cooler and back to the sump
At long last I managed to fit the engine back after a long struggle then came to notice the engine mounting is not the same size changed it back to the old one all fine now but a tight fit.Now I will be doing the wiring this weekend for the wires Kevin they look short even to reach my fire wall will have to make a plan will be taking picture's as we go along so that I don't make mistakes the old wiring I did not remove still on car and one more thing I came to notice is that the petrol cable is to short to reach throttle body is there a cable for this or maybe have one made up?
Which one? I had to raise my rear mount years ago when I used the wrong rear bracket. Yes, you'll have to make your own harness, use aircraft quality waterproof connectors or you will have problems later About time Make it up or I can find for you I think you'll need a ST182 airbox and inlet pipe too
my ECU with relay for starter and Fan relay ECU Connected but one plug is missing or is it like that? The big white plug next to it I find no place for it what would that be and extra? Old wiring water pipe housing I don't see any pipe that can go on the top right side doI block that off? on this housing do I still need to change the switch? wire's are to short even to reach the firewall do I need to ext all the wire's to reach the hole on the firewall and let it stay under my glove box do I remove the old ECU or just leave it connected due to some stuff that's connected from the old wiring. This is the mounting I was talking about it's wider about 10cm+- Just a shot of the engine fitted.
Like I said before you have to cut out the old ECU with all it's wires and replace it with the new ECU and wires while not disturbing the charging & lighting circuits. It's similar to fitting an a/m ECU on any motor and we are currently fitting a LINK ECU to Sergei's ST205 GTE/ST165 and Oompa is doing the same fitting a ST215 GTE to his ST165. Any good auto elec will do it easily. You'll need the ECU diagrams for both ECU's to do this properly, this is why I decided not to use my gen2 motor and opting for a GTE head/GE TVIS manifold The gen1 GE has a lot more wiring than the Gen2 and no the plugs aren't compatible The other option is to do as Bluestreak did and keep the gen1 harness/distributor/injectors/TB/AFM on the gen2 motor - it does work but there's some modding to do to get the throttle body working properly and the gen1 injectors are too small (imo) for the gen2 motor. Most here don't know but our JDM has square plug injectors while the rest don't The water pipes need to be swapped, MR2 has totally different radiator pipe setup The mount can be used but you need to grind the centre down to fit the gen4 chassis, you may as well remove the top stud as well, the alt brace is a w.o.t. imo I can find whatever you need so just let us know
Has anyone here on this site have files or picture's on pdf format for engine wiring harness for the st162 and looking for ECU pin out diagram's remember JDM maybe also ECU pin for MR2 2002 sw20 3sge for both thanks in advance .I had an auto elec there by the car and that is what is required from me.I will never do something like this again it's just to much mods and money I will be overhauling my old motor soon and replace that back if we can't do this right.
I was just wondering if my cyl-head would fit on this Mr2 block and just use the same old wiring on it.
Thanks guy's for your support so It will work by using the gen2 block and using my cyl-head on that if that's the case all the old wiring can then be used and don't even need to change computer box I am very happy for that now do I gain or lose power by doing this?