I found this write-up on a forum that explains how to do an alignment in your garage. It's not specific to a Celica but does explain how to setup the garage/car to do the alignment. Once my car is back together, I will be using this technique to square and alignment my suspension. I picked up one of those laser line/levels that you double-back tape to a wall to make a level line. It will also work as described in the write-up. http://forums.corner-carvers.com/showth ... t+location
Hey Jim, I'd be surprised if all that is totally nessecary unless you really want to take that much time and effort in setting basic alignment. We have always used a pair of jackstands and a masons twine strung between them. First you stretch your line down one or both sides of the car, and using a tape measure find equal distance from front, center, and back of each wheel, moving left to right. Once you have the basic points established, then using an ordinary tape measure find a point on each tire front or rear, a tread groove near the outside edge works best, about 3"-4" off the floor, using a helper of coarse. Take this measurement for front and back of the tire, compare the two measurements, this will tell you how much you will need to turn your tie rod ends. To add toe out at the front, turn the tierod so it is shorter, to add toe in, turn the rod so it becomes longer, on our cars about one full turn equals around 1/16th of an inch. After making this adjustment, roll the car forward and back, then remeasure, as this will settle the suspension. If you are also changing camber and/or lowering your car, then checking toe is much more credical, because these changes create much more radical toe angles than normal. In the case of my Track Car, I gave it 2 3/4 degrees neg. on the left and 2 1/2 degrees right, this caused my toe to be nearly one inch off at first check, this was along with about 1 3/4" lowering of my coil-overs. Changing the toe settings may take a few tries to get it just right, but it will make a world of difference, and by the way, I run about 1/8" toe out at the front. The rear is basicly the same, but because our cars have a built in toe control adjuster, it's actually easier than the front. As with the front take all your measurements and find your baseline, take your tape measure and check the toe. The only real difference with the rear, as apposed to adjusting front, you'll need the rear of the car raised and supported by jackstands, front can be done by just lifting one side and turning the wheel until you can reach the tierod. After you have your toe measurement, raise the car and place jackstands, loosen the adjuster bolt located at center rear of car under a removeable plastic cover. These bolts need to be held firmly on the adjuster side, so you don't move them before your ready. It's a good idea to use a white marker pen or some whiteout to mark where this adjuster cam is when you start, it is easy to see as it faces the rear of the car. As with the front, a little adjustment goes a long way, so take your time and recheck your adjustments often, turn the adjuster both directions until you see which way gives you the desired toe in/toe out you are looking for. Lower the car and roll it back and forth just as with the front and recheck, repeat until you get it right. This is whats worked for me for years, hope it helps you guys too! racerb 8)
