TRD Ferguson - Race Car

Ah, well those bypass hoses are part of what the heater core needs.

So I guesd the question is how much headroom does the cooling system allow for if for some reason the motor starts generating more heat than normal for whatever reason, or if say the radiator gets compromised/air flow blocked.

At least you wont need to worry much about overheating in stand still traffic, just pit stops.

With the ac condensor removed youll have better flow across the rad, fit a larger ally rad will give you better cooling and more capacity and removal of thermostat should give you more cooling than you need.

Increasing the capacity wil help you in the event of loosing coolant for whatever reason. Itll allow you to run longer before too much coolant is lost, or long enough to get youback to pits to fix etc.

 

What are you doing about oil cooling?

 

There are a couple of factory options. The gen2 ge and gtes and 5sfes had various block mounted oil coolers which used the coolant to maintain its temperature.

Ive seen pics of a european oil cooler off the sump I believe which was cooled via air.

Id at least look for a 2nd hand oil cooler to mount some way. Oil cooling would be just as important as engine coolant

 

Pic I have already posted shows the housing, you will need the waterpipe as well
This is the other side


For the hoses I use silicone ebay hoses, cheaper, prettier, and more robust
Pic shows both cooler hoses, waterpipes and silicone water hoses


It may be hard to spot as stock there is a cover hiding the pipes




The cooler Ace mentioned I think was only fitted to Euro GE models, it requires using a turbo sump.
Your FE coolers may be a little different looking but this setup was used on gen2 GE and most JDM 4S/5S motors.
Later types have the return line going to a modified waterpump, that would require a waterpump housing change as well as the thermostat and the inlets don't have a fan switch location point.

 

the 5sfe pipes are slightly closer to the oil filter/cooler. if you were in aus you could have this set.

try and get the bypass pipes of a 3s/5s from late 92+ they changed them to SS, then they won't be corroded to buggery.

 

When you first start your car it idles higher because the engine is cold but as the engine warms up
it idles slower. If you don't use a thermostat the engine will never warm up and I don't think your
going to get the best performance while the ECU* thinks the engine is cold.

The 89 GTS I just bought didn't have a thermostat in it and I drove it for 200 km to get it home so
you can run the car without 1 but the engine is designed to run at a certain temp and without a
thermostat your definetly going to be running the engine cold.

If your worried about overheating the best thing you can do is put a new water pump in the engine.
-check your hoses and make sure your clamps are all good, get silicone hoses from ebay less than $40
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/TOYOTA-CELIC...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cca69febb
-keep your heater and check its hoses/clamps, blasting it at full heat will help the rad out a bit
-if you have AC get rid of it and remove the AC radiator

if you have the black plastic lip under the bumper add it back, yellow arrow. Chances are you don't
have the deflector piece but you could make something up. Theres a piece of plastic that goes from
the bottom of the black plastic lip to the crossrail under the rad and acts like a scoop to channel
alot more air into the rad.


here you can see where the deflector connects under the rad


On the passenger side you could add an aftermarket pusher fan I put them on my cars




make sure you have heat shields on your exhaust manifold/downpipe, especially your downpipe

 

Sorry, bit late into this thread. Don't know if it's the same as the 5S cooler, but here's a pic of the Gen 3 3S-GE oil cooler

 

That gen 3 cooler won't work without the pipes and water pump housing. I don't think they sold gen3's in the USA.

I have a spare FE type cooler & pipes, I also have some spare front spoilers (one is a solid type with no vents) - just waiting on shipping quotes as they are too long to post

Re the deflector plates - they are near impossible to find, I have made my own using aluminium sheet.

 

Try putting a jumper (paperclip) in the check connector between FP & B.
When you are cranking the engine you bypass the regular fuel pump circuit
and send power directly to the fuel pump. Once you stop cranking the engine
electronics are suposed to take over and send power to the fuel pump.
Jumping FP & B will provide constant power to the fuel pump.

 

1)Fuel lines
2)Fuel pump
3)AFM or AFM connector
4)Vaccum/inlet lines leaking

Those are where I'd start, you can't swap the fuel lines afaik they're different sizes/connections

 

Follow your lines and double check

It sounds like the dreaded AFM plug fault, disconnect the AFM and it will do that every time.
Check the plug and if thats OK, open the afm top and re-solder the contacts to the board

 

There was thread on this in the electric or tech sections
I junked the charcoal canister years ago - why you using it?, it wore out decades ago