Hey guys, I could use some help working out the some issues with the track car. Ive been hitting up one of the local tracks that incorporates some technical left turns. It has showed me an ugly issue that has been masked on other tracks and autox probably for quite some time now. The car has issues turning left. Right turns are beautiful, netural and very direct. Im running hankook rcomp tires so the traction and gforces its producing are incredible. However on the left mid-low speed corners this issue is coming up where it simply will not turn. I need to use much more steering input and the driverside tire (LHD) is crying the whole way through as if it was off alignment. Background: Car as original st165 steering rack, which years back I let a friend drive the car, when I got it back the steering wheel was off center. I asked him did he hit anything ? he obviously said no lol. I had brought it to toyota to get fixed and I know now that they just popped the wheel off and reentered it. I know this because it has more rotations to one side than the other. So lets assume that the wheels are not centered in the rack. I will go under and look at the tie rod position to confirm. So where I stand now is I need to correct this issue, after speaking with some other people im under the impression that this car has a variable ratio rack, so it could be that the rack is just off and in a spot where the ratio is quicker right and slower left? Im also interested to know if any other racks will fit my st165 for sure so I can rebuild one and have it ready to swap. Another thing to ask is if there are any solid bushings made to replace the ones on the firewall supporting the rack. Thanks for the help guys
From what I've found the 165 has a different rack from other model Celicas. I thought of removing my power steering rack on my 162 GTS, but could not find a manual rack to fit. A friend who builds Spec Miata racecars suggested I just remove the the pump and loop the hose back into the rack after topping up the fluid. Try to find yourself a new, re-manned, or salvaged rack unit and replace your's, cause it sounds like there is damage there. I have also looked for solid or even urethane rack mounts, but with not much luck, will probebly get my local machine shop to make some for me. My car presently has home-build coil overs with koni inserts attached to Cusco pillow ball camber plates, no front swaybar for next track test (when-ever that occures, waiting on engine). racerb
Im not even to concerned with a manual rack at this moment although that might be an option for me. More looking to figure out if this rack as a variable ratio (which would explain poor left turns) Im going to try and reset the wheel within the rack and see what happens
What is your caster, camber and toe? There are poly bushes for other cars, maybe find some that fit or make it solid as I've done on all my race cars. Is is possible the inside wheel is lifting and losing traction? A common problem on short ovals, When I bought it it was an ex longtrack champion but on the tight tracks it was obvious the rear suspension was far too soft Here's the same thing on a Sprinter with too much outside rear travel + too much front bar
along with caster, camber and toe whats the track width? whatever the "fix" was something would be off with the alignment. probably something that "isnt adjustable". -i would assume a camry/165 would just be a bit "bigger" for a heavier car. -to fix it youd just have to center the rack via the inner tie rods. re-center the wheel either at the u-joint or wheel....brings up a good point, bad u-joint?.....anyways after those adjustments the alignment should be off, so have it re-aligned and you should be good. take it somewhere reputable. a good tech should NEVER take a steering wheel off.... -something in your alignment has to be off. bent or otherwise. -for the guys on the track, the p.s. delete is THE best steering/suspension mod ive done yet. makes input dead nuts. mine is the full de-power/machine job and its fantastic. im not sure that the looping the lines mod would be nearly the same as your still pushing fluid. as for swapping to a manual rack you will gain some wheel turns. a p.s. rack is 2.5 turns to lock while a manual rack is generaly 4 turns to lock. so if you de-power a p.s. you then have a manual "quick ratio" rack.
Has the car been crashed? Jon raises a good point, years ago a mate bent his car and had it straightened but it never turned properly again
Did a little more research and found a good DIY on removing power steering from the rack, it's for a Spec Miata but same principals apply to any rack and pinion. Even shows the old loop the line trick like I've done, but I've just got to drain off a little more fluid to make it work better. http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php racerb opcorn
Nice info there racerb if I was to do those loops how stiff those it get then is it like using a non power steering rack?
