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St165 with some upgrades

Discussion in 'Your 4th Gen beauty' started by Oompa, Mar 17, 2012.

  1. Oompa

    Oompa Well-Known Member

    So a little update.

    I needed a fuse box and of course I didn't want stock stuff! I wanted all the fuses and relays in ONE place but where to put them?
    I did want them where they were easy to get to but not where they would get knocked or damaged.

    Then I spied a place that I thought could work but it would be a tight fit.

    First build the box

    DSC02102.JPG

    16 fuses and 10 relays in a little box

    Now mount it

    DSC02103.JPG


    Then hide it!

    DSC02104.JPG

    No tools needed to get to them either, bonus.

    Sorry for the non rotated pics I got frustrated!!

    Pretty stoked on how it turned out I just need to convince my boss to continue with the wiring!!
     
  2. JoeJack88

    JoeJack88 Well-Known Member Super Moderator Donated!

    Really slick man, no need for speakers now lol
     
  3. Oompa

    Oompa Well-Known Member

    Added some Radiator ducting.

    DSC02120.JPG
    The right side

    DSC02119.JPG

    The left side
    DSC02121.JPG

    Both sides

    DSC02122.JPG

    The top piece in. There is a piece I put in earlier that closes off the bottom.

    What they do is channel the air that comes through the grille and the holes I cut through the bumper and force it to go through my intercooler and radiator For hopefully more efficient cooling!!
     
  4. CelicaSteve

    CelicaSteve Well-Known Member Staff Member Super Moderator Donated!

    Great job, very neat !
     
  5. lone wolf

    lone wolf Well-Known Member Donated!

    You must need cooling very bad :)

    Good solution!
     
  6. Oompa

    Oompa Well-Known Member

    I go to the track a fair bit and the two most common problems are;

    1, Overheating brakes. Which I solved for a little while with some Mintex 1166 pads and new fluid. It helped a LOT! I have some St205 brakes ready to go on for the next stage.

    2, Overheating cooling systems. Which I hope I have optimized my system!! If it doesn't work well then I will have to look at other options. Maybe electric water pump and water wetter?

    It might seem an overkill but given these cars have a problem with head gaskets and they are a pain to fix it seems like a good way to go. :wink
     
  7. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    Very good, much better than the shroud I made with alu plate a few years ago. Not much more you can do to promote cooling.

    Whats the status on your loom?
     
  8. Oompa

    Oompa Well-Known Member

    I think the engine loom is sorted but not sure where we are with the car loom?

    Do you have any idea about where I could get a At162 manual heater system? Might be easier to get it work?
     
  9. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    You'd have to find an AT160 for that + manual winders. I've been looking for quite a while now as I hate the electronic crap
     
  10. Oompa

    Oompa Well-Known Member

    So an update is WELL overdue. Finally got all the electrics working again. If there is one thing I have learnt from this build it is to never again to piss about with the electrics in the manner I did. That is remove the entire loom forward of the door openings. Whilst I am happy with the result of having all my fuses in one place it cost me untold amounts of anguish not to mention money. Other than that it's still the brakes that are denying me.


    I have a brand new master cylinder (Camry 1"). A residual (2psi) valve on the front circuit, (Combat pad knock). A manual brake proportioning valve. Brembo front calipers from an Evo. Rear calipers are St205. St202 booster. Brand new stainless braided lines. Vacuum check valve is ok. Mintex 1166 pads. Fluid is good.


    Every part has been checked, the system has been bled countless times and yet I still cannot get a consistent pedal.


    Things I have noticed.


    When the car is parked overnight with the car running the first push on the brake pedal is long.
    Pedal will pump up if I pump the brakes.


    The disconcerting thing is that on the road it's ok but at the track I get a great pedal sometimes then not then ok but not great. It isn't like brake fade because the pedal doesn't get overly long and soft. I'd say it feels like a "middle" pedal. A little bit longer, still firm but no retardation. Could be boiling fluid I suppose but it happens pretty quickly.


    Any ideas, anyone?


    In other news the car is back from the painters!


    photo 1.JPG photo 2.JPG


    It's not totally finished on the outside. There is some more blacking to be done. I had all the windows pulled to check for rust, (unbelievably none!), and filled in the gaps on the bumper by the headlights and got all the trim reblacked. Still have alarm and stereo to fit and tints then it will be done I guess?
     
  11. lone wolf

    lone wolf Well-Known Member Donated!

    wow that starts too look real fine ! I personally don't like the opening in the hood but I do like the front on it ! Do you have some bigger pictures of this?

    Did you allready replace the rubber hoses with braided ones? (Guess so, but still need to ask).
     
  12. Oompa

    Oompa Well-Known Member

    Yep changed to stainless braided lines. As much as the vents are massive they let out so much heat that I would struggle without them I reckon. So much heat that if I put my heater on fresh and cold all I get is hot air! Since a lot of the energy in your fuel is turned into heat and that heat can damage alot of stuff then I guess it's a plus.
     
  13. zf_165_gt4

    zf_165_gt4 Member

    Hi,
    I would like to know, what is your v8 radiator from, which car was it meant for in the beginning? I would really like to go that way too.
    thanks
     
  14. Oompa

    Oompa Well-Known Member

    It isn't from a specific car. Just measure the gap in inches as that is typically what they are measured in. I got mine from a local speed shop and they had a range of widths. Just make sure they are SIDE tanks not top and bottom tanks. The only difference is where the outlets are. One is Chev and one is ford. I can't remember which is which but one has an outlet in the top right and an outlet in the bottom left and the other one is the opposite. If you can weld Aluminium it doesn't really matter as you can put them where you want anyway. Hope this helps.
     
  15. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    Bruce is one of the best race car fabricators around, hundreds of hours went into making the mods on this car - take a good look at the pics and be amazed.

    What isn't obvious about the radiator is that it is a triple flow unit - by that I mean the water crosses across the radiator 3X before exiting from the bottom hose.
    Typically this results in a 15% increase in radiator efficiency

    Here is a pic illustrating how it works
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2016
  16. lone wolf

    lone wolf Well-Known Member Donated!

    Any updates on this great built?

    Any chance you can make me a LHD gaugepod holder as yours ? :)
     
  17. Oompa

    Oompa Well-Known Member

    Sorry Lone wolf can't do it with out the dash in front of me and as I have covered mine up I dont have a pattern but if you follow the instructions from your earlier enquiry you can do it.
    Car is going ok still haven't been able to sort the brake issue. I did find a worn drive flange that was causing some of the pad knock back but still not happy with them.
    I split a coolant hose at the track and had a suspected blown head gasket. Pulled the head and found that gasket was POSSIBLY ok, and the arp head studs didn't seem as tight as I thought they should be. Upshot was after a long saga got it back together with a new head gasket and retuned it's going well.
     
  18. lone wolf

    lone wolf Well-Known Member Donated!

    Nice to see your update !

    I'm really not so good with metalwork but I have a spare dash so I can Always give it a go. :)

    Is there video footage of your car on the track?
     

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