front exhaust broke, leaving flange bolted to manifold. I've tried liquid wrench and put as much pressure on the bolts as I can w/o any luck. Suggestions for getting the bolts out of the EM so I can bolt up the replacement down pipe? Thanks.
Figured at much. Hottest thing I've got is a Mapp torch. Any chance that be enough or do I need to find a welder?
PB Blaster or a propane torch and breaker bar can do the trick. Or you could just do it after a long drive, should be pretty hot.
hell wut i did was liquid wrench the shit out of the bolts for a few min. Then take the tourch and heat it up for a good 5 min, and then beat the shit out of it with an impact wrench.
That's what I just did. Worked like a charm. Now to get rid of the busted down pipe. BGB says to remove the cross member. and do everything from below Anyone done it by just feeding the pipe up through the engine bay or is that not possible?
the way I removed my dp..was to jack the front end up and work the dp down and out..didnt need to remove any cross member bars...Just dont slam it against your radiator when doing it thou.l
Lol - good advice about the radiator. Is that voice of experience talking :shock: Thanks, I was hoping to keep the dismantling to a minimum.
Yeah, my TWM short shifter shows up tomorrow and I've gotta do the exhaust (blah) before I can have fun w/ the shifter!
New down pipe shows up tomorrow and then gotta redo the cat install since it was 1/2-assed by the guy that did it. All I've been able to do so far is remove the busted downpipe and hopefully get the new one installed quick so I can move on to the fun stuff - short shifter.
Cheap ass Bosal parts. Only after-market down-pipe I could find and a piece of crap compared to the original Toyota down pipe. The welds look like shit compared to the original (I think I could have done better myself and I've never welded). The 2-to-1 section is 1/2 the length of the original (I hope that doesn't change the flow characteristics??). The O2 flange is 90 degrees off from the original, so I have to cut the heat shield to make it fit. The manifold flange is welded on so crooked that one of the pipes doesn't even come above the gasket around 1/2 the pipe (will the crush gasket will compensate for that?). Hope there's enough give in the flex portion so I can line things up enough to get a reasonably tight seal at the cat and manifold. Plus the hanger wires on the Bosal don't have the same tight fitting bulbs and end-cap as the original, so I hope the hangers don't bounce off. And then the Bosal gaskets aren't even close to the material, ID/OD, thickness, and fit of the original gaskets (good thing I got a second set from the dealer, otherwise I couldn't even finish the install). Why didn't someone warm me to not waste time w/ after-market crap?!? Where's the 4G luv out there??!? I should have definitely spent the extra $75 for the dealer down-pipe. Oh well, perhaps I'll just have to head to the exhaust shop for a custom 2" or 2 1/4" manifold-back new system anyway. Question about back pressure: Since the Gen1 3SGE lower end torque is already weak and reducing the back pressure too much will make that even worse, how do I measure the amount of back pressure in the system (I assume at the tailpipe is what matters) and how much back pressure is ideal for the NA 3SGE engine? Stock exhaust is 1 1/2". I've read most guys go custom to 2 1/4" but I don't know if they're running the 3SFE or the 3SGE, and I expect that would matter since the 3SFE has better low end torque. Education please! Just out of curiosity, since my cat is a bolt up and it would be easy to do a cat/test pipe swap at emissions testing time, anyone know how much power could be gained by running a test pipe? This is just a hypothetical question of course, since that wouldn't be environmentally friendly or street legal. Okay. Whining session over. Back to bolt this sucker up and see what I've got. Gotta get going on that TWM short-shifter!!!!
Okay, so the heat shield pieces off the original won't even fit the Bosal. The Bosal is too short from the manifold flange to the flex segment so the heat shield holes cannot line up the way they are supposed to. What kinda risk am I taking w/o the heat shields? Am I gonna fry engine pieces next to the exhaust? Start a fire the first piece of tall grass I drive over? Do I need to abort right now? Hellllllp!
wait which heat shield? the one over the manifold I *think* isn't quite as important because I see lots of guys running without them, I think it's more to save peoples hands.
