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Removing 162 rear swaybar....how the hell does it come out??

Discussion in 'Diagnosis/Help' started by thesherv, Jul 24, 2012.

  1. thesherv

    thesherv Well-Known Member Donated!

    Well ive done pretty much to the letter what the green book says..ive got a Whiteline bar to fit,so undid the bottom droplink nuts,undo the fuel tank straps and using trolley jack and piece of wood dropped it down .Undid the brackets holding the bushes in ,all sweet.I havent got a standard exhaust so couldnt remove rear box to gain any advantage (im assuming it comes out the exhaust side of car,as fuel pipes etc in the way the other side)
    So dropped my exhaust right down and also flipped up rear caliper just to helpand got the bar loose and ready to go!....

    ...But as much as i try a CANNOT get the bar out,ive tried every angle i can think of until ive pulled my hair out.If its like the worlds hardest Chinese puzzle then its done me.

    Ive got it kind of halfway out-ish but i cant twist it to the angle i need to remove it,surely i dont have to completely remove fuel tank and rear suspension to get it out?The book just says do what ive done and 'remove bar'.Yeah right with what.Its bloody impossible.
    Honestly has totally done me.And the worst bit is the Whiteline one is thicker and stiffer so how the hell it would go in IF the old one comes out,i dont know.Any helpful comments?Or unhelpful LOL.Gonna go f**** crazy in a minute.:mad:
    Apparently the 165 one is easy to do....but then the book says the 162 one should be as well!!!!
     
  2. 4thgenceli

    4thgenceli Test Dummy

    I've removed & installed one too many times. It's a pain in the ass.

    You'll need to remove it out the driver side of the car. When I removed mine I did as you said (dropped fuel tank a bit, removed straps, blah blah blah).

    I also did not have the exhaust in the way (there was none on there). Also drop the hubs off the suspension (the two 19mm bolts) and let them hang down. That'll give you the extra couple inches of clearance you need.
     
  3. thesherv

    thesherv Well-Known Member Donated!

    Aha right cheers for that,ill have to try that then.Dammit.I havent taken the hubs off before,ill check again in my green book but just the two 19mm bolts then,and it looks like ill have to have my exhaust system off completely,as from the backbox join,which is the nearer side to the rear bumper rather than the standard one,means its in one piece up to the downpipe at the front of the car.It does look like you need a shitload of space to get it out.Which means im not looking forward to getting the Whiteline one in as its thicker too!
    They never mentioned this lot in the book,gen4s eh.
     
  4. thesherv

    thesherv Well-Known Member Donated!

    Well I had another look today,the problem is its about halfway out,but its jamming up against the roof of the floor so to speak...I dunno this ain't looking good to me.to get the hub off means dismantling the lower rear suspension which isn't something I bargained on.I assume taking it out the drivers side means UK side ie the exhaust side.
     
  5. 4thgenceli

    4thgenceli Test Dummy

    Don't take the hub off completely, just disconnect the hub from the suspension (two bolts and it will drop free).
     
  6. thesherv

    thesherv Well-Known Member Donated!

    Maybe missing something here...the two bolts I assumed are the ones that connect to the strut,they're 17mm though.the main hub itself is connected to the lower arm etc isn't it?ill have to get some pics up
     
  7. 4thgenceli

    4thgenceli Test Dummy

    Mine are 19mm. Drop the two nuts/bolts and the whole thing just drops down (but stays connected to the control arm).
     
  8. thesherv

    thesherv Well-Known Member Donated!

    The rear of mine seems different to that,its connected to the rear at three different places...definitely 162?ill take a pic in the morning and youll see what I mean LOL.
     
  9. Redrkt01

    Redrkt01 Well-Known Member

    Yeah, it is connected to three arms. The forward control arm, the aft control arm and then the trailing arm. You're on the right track. The only difference between you and Tim is that you have different size strut bolts. That is common on pre-facelift cars as Toyota was switching from Tokico factory parts to KYB around 1987. But it is really the only difference.
     
  10. thesherv

    thesherv Well-Known Member Donated!

    Thanks for that.Yeah a lot of ball-ache just to get that bar out.Cant believe im having so much shit.Looked so simple!
     
  11. thesherv

    thesherv Well-Known Member Donated!

    Well I got it out,at last Phew what a pain.removed the breather type pipe from the fuel tank which gave me a couple more mm,then adjusted the brake pipe at the rear calipers end which allowed it to come out a bit flatter ,so with a bit of twist and swearing at it she came out.Whiteline one wasn't toooo bad to get back in ,though as it has zero flex(which is the point of all this!).so until I get chance at weekend to fit the polys and bolt everything up again at least its where it should be now.
    Can't believe it was so awkward. Just a point ,I replaced my droplinks recently but if anyone does this mod and tries to use old links,I would replace them with new ones anyway as I would think the extra stiffness would find out the weaknesses in worn links.cheers for all the advice guys
     
  12. kevinkyang

    kevinkyang Well-Known Member Donated!

    awesome thread! I'm saving for the whiteline one too. hopefully, after reading this, it'll take me an afternoon to get it done
     
  13. thesherv

    thesherv Well-Known Member Donated!

    Definitely the main points to remember,get the fuel tank dropped as low as you can.Remove the breather type pipe that youll see that sits up in the recess (where the middle part of the bar lives.,) and on my car goes into the solid bit that you can jack the car up on in the rear centre of the car.Theres a little filter looking thing that is part of that pipe,you can unclip it and move it out of the way,otherwise the old swaybar will foul it on the way out.If you have a standard exhaust system,remove the rear box.The bar itself will try and go out at a downward angle,try and twist it so it goes out as parallel to the underside of the car as it can and out past the brake pipe on the rear caliper.You can of course disconnect the whole of the rear hub,but i managed it by undoing the two bolts that hold it to the strut,so it pivots out a bit,gaining a bit of space.Handy if you have two people to be honest,especially as the rear hub will move due to the pressure of the suspension once youve undone the bolts.Bit awkward to get the holes lined back up on your own.And DEFINITELY replace the rear droplinks if you havent done them very recently,as its a simple job.Finally before you remove the bar the last few inches in triumph,just note the angle its coming out at as it will help you put the new one in in exactly the same way,you dont want the Whiteline one giving you problems on the way in.Of course having said all this,you'll slide yours out in minutes and wonder what all the fuss was about LOL

    Well worth doing though,as ive got uprated springs as well,it definitely helps the rear of the car.
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2012
  14. kevinkyang

    kevinkyang Well-Known Member Donated!

    yea, the rear end seems to swing out from time to time..... i know, i found out the hard way
     
  15. thesherv

    thesherv Well-Known Member Donated!

    Doesnt sound good mate.But yeah i was told when i very first got the car by Sidewayz (Rich) how light the back end of these cars go under braking especially.I dont mind if the car has a slightly greater tendency to oversteer than stock understeer,providing its controllable.If the back steps out a bit under my current setup im confident its going to be remedied easy enough,but as it was with soft springs and its arse in the air,if it decided to let go i wouldnt be too confident with it.
     

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