Project Overtime

Discussion in 'Your 4th Gen beauty' started by MattC, Oct 3, 2011.

  1. MattC

    MattC Well-Known Member Donated!

    Hey Spidey, been a while. Still plugging away at the front spoiler, I get a bit done here and there (again, refer the several other things that I also own that need fixing). Believe me, you'll be getting the first prototype since your car is actually on the road and all and thus you're in a much better position for testing it's durability than my garage queen is.

    haha I was hoping no-one would point out that I was also in fact keeping the motor outdoors (I only have a single-car garage, and no shed. Spare space = zero). At least i've got it undercover though, and once I've stripped it and bolted it to the stand I'll wrap it in plastic until it's time to get the machine work done. All the bits will live in plastic lidded tubs so they'll be out of the elements too.

    New rings bearings and seals are a matter of course for a rebuild, this thing will also cop some shiny forged go-fast bits as well though. Should go hard :p

    ??

    SYDNEY - WINDY WITH CLEARING SHOWER

    ?? :lachtot
     
  2. MattC

    MattC Well-Known Member Donated!

    Teardown continues. Still haven't got to the intake manifold or cylinder head, spent a couple of hours today labelling vacuum hoses, taking photo's of their location, then removing and bagging. Then labelling electrical plugs, taking photo's and disconnecting. Tedious stuff, but will make life so much easier when it comes to re-assembly time.

    Got the throttle body off though. Eeeeeewwwww:

    [​IMG]

    Also pulled the plug tubes. Check out cylinder #2, it was full of water and some sort of gross goo:

    [​IMG]

    Definitely don't think this thing would have run well (or at all) if it had just been thrown into the car.

    More tomorrow.
     
  3. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    Sorry to say it but that bootlid is f/d unless you turn it over and fill it with rust killer NOW!
    Look for holes along the top beading, it's bound to have a few.

    Chinese tools, lol, I see that s*&t all the time here, my fav is the drill bits that bend and twist

    The MR2 motor was obviously pulled because it was on the way out, the grease in the T/B shows major oil breathing from leaky seals and rings.
    Dunno how anyone can buy a used motor and expect it to be perfect - in another dimension maybe?
    Main thing is you now have your base for a very strong motor

    For storing parts I find used 20-25l paint buckets are good, they hold a lot, you can stack them high, they seal, you can use them as stools, and best of all nobody will think there's valuable parts inside
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2012
  4. MattC

    MattC Well-Known Member Donated!

    Yeah I'll get the bootlid off one day soon and rustproof it, the car lives in the garage now so it won't get any worse in a hurry. I should have the intake And head off the motor tomorrow to see what it's like inside. Since the plan all along was to replace pretty much everything inside it I'm not too concerned, as long as the crank and the head are OK. And it wasn't just bolts that were the problem with that crane, I had to drill a bunch of new holes in it because half of the parts didn't line up where they should have. Good old Chinese build quality. Lucky it was cheap.
     
  5. MattC

    MattC Well-Known Member Donated!

    Not much to update, I thought I'd have the head off by now, but once again I spent the afternoon labelling, taking pics, remove, clean, bag, label, repeat. Not real exciting. I did get the engine onto the stand though, which is making the whole task much easier, though getting it up there is a prick of a job by yourself. Also the flywheel wasn't playing along, it really REALLY didn't want to come off. Half a can of stuff called "Liquid Spanner" (which penetrates the threads and dissolves whatever is holding it tight. Apparently.) and several hits with the rattle gun finally convinced the bolts to back out. Anyone want a free Gen3 flywheel? Otherwise it's going in the bin.

    Is degreaser bad for alternators? This one was absolutely jam-packed with black crud so I dumped half a can of degreaser into it before I considered whether it would still work afterwards. Then I kind of decided meh, it probably didn't work so well anyway, lol... I'll take the case off and give it a proper clean, let it dry out then find out whether I've killed it.

    That's all for now, probably won't get another chance to play with it until the weekend.
     
  6. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    Best way to undo a flywheel is to put a block of wood between the crank & block.

    Working on engines alone suxx, I know how you feel - at least you didn't have to strip it in your boot (in the rain) -lol, I've reached a new low
    [​IMG]

    Parts are on their way btw
     
  7. MattC

    MattC Well-Known Member Donated!

    hahaha you poor bastard... how'd you get it IN there??

    I don't mind working alone too much, at least when you stuff up there's no-one around to see :p but yeah only having the regular-issue two hands blows sometimes.

    Wood? pfft, rattle gun ftw! lol... I need a better compressor though, mine will only go up to about 110psi and the tank isn't that big, so I'd have to wait for it to fully charge before I could give a bolt a hit, then discharge air until it started compressing again, wait for it to fully charge again to move on to the next one, etc.

    Cheers for sending that stuff off. Do you still have those ST165 two-spot brakes?
     
  8. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    They went on a Corolla race car. The guys drilled the disks to 4 bolt

    You wanna know why people think I'm nuts? I didn't get in there, I got pneumonia from standing in the rain swearing like a sailor.
    I got a bad case of tennis elbow earlier this year so lifting is not as easy as it used to be

    ps. Tip for fitting/drilling - just put lipstick on the screws/clips and place it in position. The lipstick will show the marks you need to drill.
    Or you could put plasticene or similar on the body and press your marks
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2012
  9. MattC

    MattC Well-Known Member Donated!

    That's exactly how I marked the holes for the spoiler, I just put a dab of paint on each screw and lowered it into position then drilled at the paint marks.
     
  10. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    For the compressor - it's a myth that higher pressure = more power, get a better quality gun or go bigger. Cranking the pressure will only damage the seals in the gun

    With a 1in gun and 8bar you can undo almost anything and that is what most diesel macks use, we had it at the gearbox shop and I was amazed what that thing could do, ie if you put it in reverse it could strip a #32 nut and cut all the threads off a driveshaft without realizing it.

    I had a Black Ridge BAC180, 50l and it was great for the garage, for more capacity you can add a modded gas/scuba cylinder or even better, just use galvanized waterpipes to run the length of your garage - that will double the capacity and give you more outlets, better watertraps etc and you can position the compressor outside/under the house for better cooling and noise.
    All the stuff you need is at the hardware and you can run whatever size pipes you want

    Believe it or not - a scuba cyl at 50bar and one at 200bar explode - which makes the bigger mess?
    Damage is the same, it's the shock wave that does the damage (assuming it doesn't fly around cuz the 200bar will go a lot further)
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2012
  11. MattC

    MattC Well-Known Member Donated!

    Ah, you spotted the mighty Black Ridge in one of the other pics eh. The gun actually came with the compressor, so it's probably a cheap bit it's plenty heavy and does everything else I need it to.
     
  12. MattC

    MattC Well-Known Member Donated!

    More work on the stripdown today. Got the wiring harness, fuel rail, intake manifold, valve cover and upper timing cover off. Wanted to keep going and lift the head, but discovered that the head bolts require a Torx bit, which I do not possess. A mate of mine has a set though so I'll borrow them for next time.

    Picture time!

    Head looks pretty clean inside, no sludging. Cam lobes still look brand new :D

    [​IMG]

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    Inside of valve cover not too bad, bit of crap on the intake side (I forgot to take a pic but inside the intake manifold runners was a fair bit of black crud)

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    Valve cover after a good degrease and a blast with the pressure cleaner. I think I'll paint it gold as a sort of homage to the Gen1 cover.

    [​IMG]

    Working tomorrow so probably won't get at it again until next weekend.
     
  13. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    Head looks good but valve seals may be toast
    If you don't go ARP, the next best imo is the 10mm hex bolts on the Gen2's. I don't like Torqx at the best of times
    Whats the no's on those cams?
     
  14. MattC

    MattC Well-Known Member Donated!

    meh, don't care if the valve seals are gone, replacing them anyway. You're right, Torx bolts are evil and will be flung in nearest skip once removed. Head will eventually be retained by ARP studs; overkill, but fits my "do it, but only do it once" attitude to this thing. I'll have a look at the numbers on the cams tomorrow and post then.
     
  15. MattC

    MattC Well-Known Member Donated!

    Stig, sorry I forgot to post those cam numbers the other day - 88460 on the intake, 88362 on the exhaust.

    The stripdown continues. Today I got the sump and windage tray off and cleaned them up, and also cleaned the intake manifold up a bit.

    The 3rd-gen 3S-GE has a two piece sump, the lower part is a regular pressed steel pan, the upper section is a cast alloy piece. It also has a windage tray incorporated to stop oil flying about everywhere.

    Here I've taken the lower section of the pan off and exposed the oil strainer and part of the windage tray including a massive baffle to keep the majority of the oil in the lower section:

    [​IMG]

    With the upper section of the sump removed you can see the whole windage tray:

    [​IMG]

    The insides of the two parts of the sump. Pretty clean, no chunky bits or other nasty's:

    [​IMG]

    The underside of the windage tray. As you can see, it's just windage, there are no crank scrapers.

    [​IMG]

    Sump removed, the heart of the beast:

    [​IMG]

    Cleaned the sumps up and then decided to have a look at the intake manifold. I took the lid off the ACIS system, hoping not to find a box of smoke and springs and magic all making a mad attempt at escape, and was pleasantly surprised to find that there's actually not much too it, though it was covered in oil snot:

    [​IMG]

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    After a good cleanup:

    [​IMG]

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    I'll remove the ACIS plenum and clean out the intake runners next time, ran out of daylight today.

    Here's one for the anoraks, I found this logo on the underside of the ACIS cover, anyone know what Ushima (or is it Tushima?) is/does?

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2012
  16. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    Nice pics, I've been wanting one of those sumps for a while but you need the oil pump as well.
    This sump was developed to combat a nasty problem with the 1 piece sumps raced in the stock position -
    namely on long right hand turns the oil moves away from the pickup and your engine goes BANG!

    Is the oil pump the skinny GE type or the GTE type?

    Thanks for the GE cam no's - that inlet is an awesome beast, so I'm looking for two of those for my gen2 motor

    Wait till you get the inlet valves out, I put some up next to my gen1 & 2 spares and had a WHOOHOO moment

    I'll have to go buy an anorak so I can tell you what Tushima is/does, in the meantime - http://www.tushima.com.sg/

    The gun I got with my Blackridge was also useless, my g/f has vibrators with more grunt than that.
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2012
  17. MattC

    MattC Well-Known Member Donated!

    Don't know about the oil pump, haven't got to that bit yet. I'll be replacing it with the GTE/5S pump regardless.

    Thought this might interest you Stig, one of the guys on Toymods had his Gen3 cams measured by a cam manufacturer (Ivan Tighe), here are the results;

    Intake:
    [​IMG]

    Exhaust:
    [​IMG]


    Lucky girl :lachtot
     
  18. MattC

    MattC Well-Known Member Donated!

    Finished the teardown on the Gen3 today. Pics!

    Stig, re. the oil pump, I still have no idea which one it is, but this is what it looks like:

    [​IMG]

    Water pump inlet. More grossness:
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    Plugs. Run too hot me thinks?
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    Cams out. They don't seem to run any bearings around the cam journals? Still, pretty clean, only one decent looking scratch on the #3 intake housing:
    [​IMG]

    Head off. Bit of carbon buildup but no other nasties:
    [​IMG]

    Cylinder bores look great, no gouging, pitting, scratches or corrosion. You can still clearly see hone marks. Looks like it was a fairly low KM motor?
    [​IMG]

    Rod bearings look good
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    Main bearing caps
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    Crank journals
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    Pistons have a lot of carbon builldup, but otherwise look ok?
    [​IMG]
     
  19. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    Dunno why but I cant see the cam specs you posted

    Looks like you got a good one there, looks like they changed the oil but never heard of antifreeze

    Pump is GT4/5S style which is a plus and in good nick

    Plugs look normal, these run hot plugs which helps prevent carbon buildup
     
  20. MattC

    MattC Well-Known Member Donated!

    I linked the pics of the cam spec sheets straight from Toymods, maybe if you're not a member or signed in they don't work? Try these ones, I've copied them and hosted them on my photobucket account:

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    [​IMG]

    lol, fail:

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