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Passenger side CV half shaft

Discussion in 'Drivetrain' started by Anse, Mar 25, 2009.

  1. Anse

    Anse Guest

    I'm working on my daughter's '87 GTS Coupe (too many problems to mention) and I had a question about the passenger side CV axle. The inner boot on her's was torn open and it was throwing grease everywhere. I bought a replacement unit and plan to install tomorrow. However, I noticed that the carrier bearing on the new unit is unusually tight. The old one, of course, is very loose and spins freely. However, it takes a little bit of effort to spin the new one by hand.

    I would assume that the bearing would loosen up rather quickly with use, but in your experience, were the bearings tight initially on replacement axles that you have installed in your cars? I don't want this thing to heat and bind, and if it's not performing correctly, then I would want to take it back now before I start putting parts back on the car.

    Are there any special considerations/instructions when installing this axle? I installed a new transmission seal, and I'll be ready to button it up once I install the new struts on the car tomorrow. Based on what I've read here, ATF is probably the transmisison fill of choice (had 90w in it, I believe).

    Thanks in advance for your help.
  2. Mafix

    Mafix Owner Staff Member Administrator Donated!

    very easy install and fairly straight foward.
    i would get another axle though. that bearing should spin freely.
  3. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    As long as it's not binding it should loosen up, in my experience they are alarmingly loose but don't give problems.
    I've been meaning to change mine when the occasional noise gets worse - that was 3yrs ago... and still going strong.
    I use a good quality CV graphite grease (eg Valvoline Val Plex M lithium), not that thick oil Toyota uses and change all the boots while it's apart. Make sure it's all clean and the tulip bearings are good.

    As for the oil, the ATF in a manual box is an old racers trick and not kind on your syncros, bearings and thrust faces (actual dyno gains are very small) I'd stick to 90W for smoother changes and longevity.(I suspect the previous owner changed over to cure a problem)
    Fark knows why Toyota specs ATF on some boxes, as the box internals all look the same apart from better syncros on the ST202?

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