JDM TEMS, Corona 162 - 2 & 4 door and many more jdm oddities

Re: JDM parts, $1 Celica's, TEMS from New Zealand....

Changed the exhaust back last night, different flange angles etc, tailpipe is now skew
The engine crossmember bolt hole had to be slotted to find the subframe crossmember hole,
the subframe nuts & bolts are different sizes/pitches too, what a pita to find the correct ones!

I've had to raise the rear gearbox mount to lift the head away from the strut brace, it's dangerously close
to the steering rack which leads me to believe the rear bracket is still wrong as the motor is still solid

I can't switch sumps either, this one has 2 extra nuts and the flywheel seal housing has two studs to the sump.

What the hell were those guys up to? 2 identical cars with f/all in common!

 

Re: JDM parts, $1 Celica's, TEMS from New Zealand....

The raised rear mount


Can somebody compare this to a std rear mount?


The leaky sump plug

 

Pre- post facelift engine differences?

The sump plug may be pre-facelift, doesn't explain all the other differences though.
Count the number of sump bolts - you may be in for a surprise, the flywheel seal housing
is different. The gen 2 etc has the smaller sump bolt too

This pre-production pic has the same T/B fitted and the early silver cam covers -
I think this is 1985-6 spec



Some eye candy for you, it's a sneak pic taken in S.Africa of one of the WRC motors under assembly for the SARC 4wd Corollas.
Dry sump, oil filter, water pipe changes, almost non-exsistant flywheel and the turbo is fed directly from the oil pump

 

JDM 3S-GE Gen1 differences - pre/post facelift?

The silver covers are early JDM GE engines, let's call them "type1" - 1985-6?
The bright gold covers in this pic are taken from a "GT" model which features higher comp pistons and no O2 sensor, oil cooler



There are numerous differences to the later 86- motors

Here's the two T/B's, p/n's are almost identical
[

The sump bolts, later type & gen2 etc have 2 bolts missing


Ex manifolds - one's in German!!?? Looks like a 5S-FE type manifold


Downpipes - Early has one pipe, later has 2 pipes


Alt brackets - later hasd the hook nearer the head, gen2 etc has no hook


Belt shield - most don't have?


Crossmembers - bolt spacing is different too, I know I tried to swap them


Manifold braces, later one is offset to clear the gear cables


Sump plugs are different


Con rods in the early type are heavier - note the thicker caps and the different seal housing

Note - I ground off these 2 studs to fit a later oil pan

I can go on.....

 

Modified cold air intake - the correct way

The latest revision of the TEMS modified intake features a larger hole, a shroud to keep air
from escaping to the wheelwell & an enlarged hole in the bumper


Hardly even noticeable from the outside


Would be interesting to do a manifold pressure test to see if/how well it works?

Rev1 of the radiator shroud fitted
The piece I had is too short, it should extend up the sides of the radiator as well


It's very flat because I'm using the Corona solid spoiler, so it only needs to cover the number plate holes,
it also functions as a guard to stop stones and pieces of truck from bouncing up and hitting the radiators


This is experimental, the plan is to incorporate it into my splitter idea and help brace the splitter/spoiler
as well
Guys who are missing the plastic spoiler tray can use this idea to make an alu substitute and re-enforce
the front spoiler at the same time

 

Engine shrouds

This is just some 3mm alu plate I had spare, it's plenty strong for this application

Forget trying to duplicate the sump guards - they suk & ther'es 2 types depending on the box.
There's pics of them a page or two back
Much better idea would be to copy the Factory Rally guard, it's flatter and strong


Anybody got any better suggestions?
Let me know how you get on with this, I'd like to see some channels directing air
to the brakes

 

JDM Corona front spoiler & spots fitted

B-4


Afta


Getting the spots into the bumper is not as easy as it looks, the tow hooks were cut out
and new holes drilled, the plastic skin re-shaped etc


This is how I mounted the spots




Don't forget to add a relay and a seperate feed from one of the battery fuses!
The PIAA rally relay I used also has it's own 15A fuse

It's next to the bonnet release for easy access

Heres the new switch installed, comes from a Corona so it looks factory


The air now flows straight thru to the new intake and up to the stock air filter


Not too shabby?, spoiler needs a re-spray though, note how the Corona spoiler is way more rounded
Next step is to add the splitter I'm designing for it


The splitter's main function will be to re-enforce the spoiler, I have 3 spare spoilers but all
are starting to show their age, next solution is to fab them in 1pce fiberglass? - Might as well
just make a complete custom skin for the bumper bar

 

Shakedown findings - Loose head bolts!

Thankz AlwayZ

Shakedown results
After blasting up/down the 200m driveway for 30min trying to bed the new pads, the new pads still haven't
bedded and the 202 disks were only warm to the touch - need to find some steep hills?
Those brakes sure can take some punishment!
I'm going to have to do some drastic braking before going anywhere near the test centre, the pedal is still
spongy as hell

The radiator cap is leaking slightly, I've tried 5 (including a brand new one) and all leak. WTF?
I suspect the new thermostat may be sticky as it stops leaking when up to temperature
It did the same thing with the stock radiator! eek5

The O2 sensor wire snapped at the sensor, had to replace the sensor but it doesn't seem to make any difference
Motor is idling well at 700rpm but clearly the shims need attention - Oh well loose shims are better than tight shims?

The oil is clean but found some copper colored filings in the sump - where they coming from? ugh

Re-torqed the head - SCARY SHIT! - most of the cam covers screws were already loose and the head bolts
were nowhere near where I torqued them, some were tighter, but most were looser than spec. crazy
I re-torqued them all to 80Nm as the factory method doesn't seem to work too well?
Some ARP studs etc are going in there once the cash starts flowing again!!!
The stock Allen key bolts are woefully too thin and the keys can't take more than 80Nm
Frustrating knowing what you need and not having the cash to do it

Heater unit is a joke, the aircon is working well but blows hot air from the bottom vents and
cold air from the upper vents :evil:

 

Re: New spoiler, spots and ram intake fitted + SOUND

A frontal pic - Good & clean & fresh (as the ad goes)


Old (JDM) and "New" (USDM) repeaters


The reason it was so loud


3 inches of nothingness all the way to the back silencer

HKS silencer replacement plus another mid silencer added to bring some sanity back into the equation

 

Re: Heater unit repaired & modded for LED's

I've been having hassles with the heater unit (1989 model) in the TEMS, flaps not opening,
fan not working properly, lights not working, temp not changing etc - very frustrating banghead

I decided to repair it and I can report that replacing it with the 1987 version does not work,
the wiring is different.
So I re-soldered each and every joint carefully and VOILA!, the damm thing is working properly now.
The 4 tiny 12V bulbs had all failed and after getting a price of $17 each,
I decided to try something different.
I had some spare blue 12V T10 LED bulbs, so I opened them carefully and removed the LED's
complete with the resistors to go with the new blue interior theme


Carefull as the resistors tend to break right at the ceramic - rendering them uzeless

I soldered them into the circut board as trying to get them into those tiny silly holders proved futile


Carefull as the LED's will only work in one direction, this is the correct positioning for the LED's


I'm happy to report that the LED's are waay brighter than stock, cheaper and should last longer,
you can change colours easily and re-soldering the joints definitely does work!

 

Re: $1 JDM's, TEMS & weird s#<& from Nu Zlnd

Interesting week

I decided the auto would look better with red grafix


I tracked down Sambo (Sam), turns out he sold the leather 162 to a passer-by as well as the GE gen3 Corolla
- no idea who the new owner is

Mafix, yes - looks like all GE's were 8 bolt here
I changed the flywheel seal and luckily had a loose seal from an FE set
as the later GE seal is bigger
I couldn't find an alignment mark on the flywheel either?
Don't you think it's weird there's no dowels on the head or the crank?

 

Parcel shelf recon, Fuel cut install, Secret compartment mod

Parcel shelf - strip your old one, trace the outline onto some alu or marine ply & cut it out.
Avoid MDF/chipboard as it's heavy and not waterproof! It will crack up or flake in no time.
I use 5mm Alu Composite board (ACM) as it's light, strong, cheap and weatherproof.
Re-fit your 2 braces & cords and cover it with anything you like

Tha alu is a great way to mount speakers


Fuel cut - You need a good quality switch and wire, I used a Corona park light switch and 15A wire.
Lift the rear seat, cut the single blue/black wire (at #1) to the pump and solder in the 2 new wires to the switch.
You can hide the switch anywhere you like, mine looks like a park light switch but I figure that should confuse them



Be sure to solder & cover the joins with shrink wrap/etape,
use connectors for the switch as you don't want it cutting out on the highway.
Important to use the same gauge wire or thicker!

Also I prefer this method as it could also save the car in case of a fuel fire,
imagine this happening to you!
http://alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=36238&highlight=
Here's another write-up
http://www.st162.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=1986

My "latest invention" was more of a necessity than an invention.
I needed to replace the RCA cable to my amp which is under the rear panel.
No way was I gonna remove the seat, rear panels etc


The armrests are now held on with velcro and I now have 2 big secret hiding spaces for my tools,
spares and valuables

Just make sure your stuff is padded and wrapped in plastic and rust won't be a problem

 

Re: $1 JDM's, TEMS & weird s#<& from Nu Zlnd

Well, the whole idea is that you don't actually see anything with the covers on


Here's one of those "I can see myself in the shop window" pics