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How to make polyurethane motor mounts *56k BEWARE*

Discussion in 'Engine and Drivetrain' started by JoeJack88, Feb 6, 2007.

  1. JoeJack88

    JoeJack88 Well-Known Member Super Moderator Donated!

    Originally posted by schmooot from 4gcelica.net

    Well we all know how much motor mounts are from toyota and from any aftermarket store will still cost ya 75 bux each at least so here's a rundown on making your own. This is way easier if you do it while your motor is out.

    Step 1. If in the US you can go to any hardware store and buy 80-90 Durometer A polyurethane with activator. But for everyone else it can be bought at
    80 Shore A Durometer/Polyurethane - 1lb resin/hardener - p/n 8644k11 $19 (Softer)
    - 94 Shore A Durometer/Polyurethane - 1llb resin/hardener- p/n 8644k18 $19 (Harder)

    Just type the part number in the search and it will come up with the right stuff.

    They shipped it fedex and it was at my place in canada in two days. Here's what it looked like, it was prepackaged by weight so I just had to add everything in the smaller bottle to everything in the big can and stir it up and it was just enough with a little bit to spare.
    :note: it will probably come differently from a hardware store and mixing will have to be measured out

    Step 2. Remove the motor mounts. These are the two in worst shape


    Step 3. Clean motor mounts well. I used a heavy duty paint thinner and stiff brush, it really cleaned all the oil and grime off.


    Step 4. Sand all the rubber with low grit paper. It needs to be roughened up for the urethane to stick to it.

    Step 5. I made 4 cardboard cutouts of one side of one mount and they all fit, I then duct taped the cardboard pieces to the side of each mount.

    :)note: On the one mount where the fluid couldn't reach the other side, I drilled a couple big holes to the other side so it would flow to the underside)

    Step 6. Mix polyurethane solution as per directions, wait about ten minutes for it to get mollasesy and pour into mounts until it reaches the top.
    :)note: even through teh cardboard and duct tape it is still iquid and it might find a away to escape so just keep topping it up until it hasd gelled enough to not flow anywhere)

    Step 7. wait at least 18-24 hours before putting any motor weight on them. I took the duct tape off and had to use a gasket scraper to get the cardboard off after 12 hours.

    And there's the finished product, they are ugly but very tough and very practical

    All around I can feel more vibration in the car but then again the various interior parts rattling is no different from when the subs are hittin, and the throttle response/torque when shifting is just amazing. Very big difference from before. I highly recommend doing this if you have the time, although if I did it again I would go for maybe a durometer 70 instead just to give a little more flex but to each his own
  2. Sterling

    Sterling Guest

    wow this looks good ill be doing this for sure!

    how did u deal with the motor while u took them out like did u just have it hanging in a engine hoist while still in the bay?

    and does this practice get applied 2 tranny mounts too?
  3. schmooot

    schmooot Well-Known Member

    those are all 4 mounts....and I was swapping the motor and waiting for my new one to come in so I had no motor in the car at the time. Though theoretically you could just support the weight of the engine and then pull all 4 off and hope they go back in as easy...you'd have to lift the engine a couple inches as well to get them in and out
  4. rye

    rye Well-Known Member Donated!

    Yeah a chain hoist should work just fine....you might have trouble getting the bottom rear mount out since it's a pita to reach...
  5. underscore

    underscore Well-Known Member

    you'd want to jack the car then jack the engine.
  6. Guest

    Guest Guest

    when i replaced the engine mounts on my alltrac celica, i only jacked the car up. as long as the side mounts (near the intake and the timing belt) are in good condition, the engine will not sag regardless of whether the front and rear mounts are in place or not.

    the side mounts (near the suspension) are the 2 which hold the engine/transmission up. the front and rear are the mounts which absorb the torque of the engine upon throttle.

    other than that, personally, i'd suggest using the LOWEST rating polyurethane. too firm, and you'll rattle nuts and bolts loose. or worse, like in my 86 mr2, shatter chassis points.
  7. rye

    rye Well-Known Member Donated!

    Well how did you get the side mount's out then?
  8. Dman_23

    Dman_23 Guest

    Can you find urethane in stores in Canada? I have a few cars that need this treatment.
  9. schmooot

    schmooot Well-Known Member

    nope no luck in canada.....apparently home depot in the states carries the stuff though. I had to buy it from that site I mentioned above
  10. underscore

    underscore Well-Known Member

    still no issues from using the 80/90? I don't want my motor to move and my ride is already rough but I dont want to tear my car apart like my friend with too stiff coilovers.
  11. Alexg

    Alexg Well-Known Member Donated!

    Old thread, but relevant as engine mounts are a bugger of a thing.

    For those who cant find 2-part polyurethane try Sikaflex Adhesive.
    Same kind of stuff, works wonders. Comes under other brands too, but its just a black, thick, air cure polyurethane adhesive in a squeeze-gun tube.

    Got this tip from my uncle who drives rally, if it works for that, itll work on a road car.
  12. racerb

    racerb Well-Known Member

    Last edited: Sep 16, 2013

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