Head Gasket blown, but not fogging from the tailpipe?

Discussion in 'Diagnosis/Help' started by Sofo, Apr 2, 2012.

  1. Sofo

    Sofo Member

    Hello all, the car in question is my old reliable 1988 Celica ST, 3S-FE ATM. Last Friday, the hose from the heater valve to the pipe blew, and the temperature gauge peaked to the red line, I was able to shut the car off, and let it cool before it got into the red, but just before. Replaced the hose, new clamps etc, and have been eyeballing the water in the radiator and the oil, and so far, there's no mixing of the two happening.

    However, I'm still losing coolant. There doesn't appear to be any steam coming out of the tailpipe, or antifreeze smell out of it either. However, I noticed that by the Water Outlet on the driver's side, it's leaking from between the head and the block. Not pouring out, but enough that I have to add about a cup of water to the radiator every 100 miles or so. The engine has 271,xxx miles on it and honestly still runs really well. I'm evaluating my options, I'd be happy if I could just fix the leak, but I have heard that you don't put a new head gasket on an engine with as many miles as mine has on it.

    She's my only car, and my way back and forth to work. I haven't done a head gasket before, and am really worried about it. So, I'm seeking advice on how to proceed, what you guy's opinions are, etc. If you were in my shoes, what would you do?

    Thanks for taking the time to read my post, and chiming in.
     
  2. ST165-2765

    ST165-2765 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Are you sure it's leaking between the head and the block ? You can actually see drops of coolant coming out ?

    In the area you specify you have the water outlet with a bunch of sensors and you also have a Water By-pass
    Pipe for heater coolant above the water outlet. The Water By-pass Pipe is right at the level of your leak so
    check it very carefully. You have replaced 1 of the heater hoses it was the 1 sending coolant into the heater
    and is connected to the water outlet. I would check the return hose from the heater and its clamps very
    carefully.

    [​IMG]

    Hopefully the leak is in the return hose from the heater or a rusted Water By-pass Pipe, if you have determined
    that it definetely is leaking between the head and the block you really have no choice except to replace the
    head gasket. I have put new head gaskets on high millage engines with no problems.

    You can also when the engine is cold start the car and take the radiator cap off and look into the radiator and
    check for bubbles, if their is a leak in the head gasket between a coolant chamber and a cylinder the piston
    will force air into the coolant chamber which will bubble out of the radiator.

    You should also be able to by a kit that will test your coolant for exhaust gases which would indicate a blown
    head gasket.
     
  3. Sofo

    Sofo Member

    Thanks for replying ST165!

    Yes sir, I can see it coming out from where the block meets the head. I scrutinized the entire repair area, checking clamps, wiggling hoses, etc.
    It's not coming from the water outlet area, but underneath it a few inches and to the left. The coolant pools in the square shaped ridges on top of the transmission.
    I had initially thought that it was perhaps the water outlet gasket, or a broken heater valve outlet since it's plastic and all, but no dice.

    I found the leak after killing the engine. I popped the hood quickly, and there it was, right on the corner where the head meets the block(4th cylinder I believe). It bubbles, and drips out slowly, especially after I kill the engine and the pressure builds up.
    Went to get her inspected today, and she failed for the first time ever in the three years that I've had her. Usually, she passes with flying colors, way under the limits here in Texas.

    For all intents and purposes I live in a sandbox. Literally, I'm in the desert with nothing but sand, cacti, snakes and centipedes. If I had a shop, or a garage or someplace to work, I'd seriously consider doing the head gasket myself just because I love my old car, and I'd take peace of mind in knowing that she was repaired correctly. I'm just afraid of all the sand getting into the engine, so I took it to a machine shop today, to inquire about how much it would cost to replace the gasket.

    The guy told me $500.00. Not sure whether that's high, or low as far as price goes. But he said after looking at the leak, and checking the tailpipe for billowing smoke, to try a bottle of stuff called Blue Devil.
    Went to the O'reilly's here and bought a bottle of it ($63!!). I haven't put it in yet though. Figure I'll try it out tomorrow after work. I find it hard to believe that a bottle of anything can cure something as serious as a blown Head Gasket.

    As it stands, I'm torn in three different directions. Buy a torque wrench and have a go at her myself, try to find a junkyard 3S-FE and someone to put it in, or take it to "Nacho's Machine Shop". Yes, that's the shop's real name. All my friends and family say to buy a new car, but I'm not having it. She's been awesome to me since I've owned her, and to do any less for her just wouldn't be gentlemanly. I get almost 40MPG, and for a 24 year old auto, that's pretty damn sweet. Of course I rarely take her over 55. As always, any and all input, opinions, etc are very much welcomed.

    Also as an aside, the taillights you sent me worked perfectly. As a bonus, I haven't had to buy light bulbs for a year now, because the all the ones you left in the them when you sent them to me. ;)
     
  4. ST165-2765

    ST165-2765 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Well I never heard of the stuff but it says it should work
    [​IMG]

    $500 is probably pretty reasonable it's a ton of work
    - drain the coolant
    - remove the return hose to the radiator
    - disconnect the air intake hose
    - remove the intake manifold
    - disconnect the exhaust manifold
    - remove the altenator
    - disconnect the timing belt
    - remove most of the engines wiring harness
    - disconnect the fuel rail
    - remove the valve covers
    - remove the head bolts
    - remove the head
    - clean head and block mating surfaces
    - check head and block for warpage
    - install new head gasket
    - reverse most of the steps above to re install everything

    Probably missed a couple things but thats a good idea of whats involved

    -hopefully the Blue Devil stuff will work
     
  5. Zaluss

    Zaluss Well-Known Member Donated!

    Been there, done that. Tried Blue Devil for my BHG...didn't work at all. Anyway, I've done my own cars head gasket 4 times. The same 3sfe auto you have. Long story why 4 times but bottom line is I can pull the head off my car in 45 minutes hehe.
     
  6. Sofo

    Sofo Member

    Thanks for the input guys. The Blue Devil worked, somewhat. The block isn't leaking by the head any longer, but it still freaks me out, so she's going to Nacho's on the 19th or so. Until then, I'm taking it easy on her, keeping her under 2500RPM. After the head gasket is done, I'm immediately flushing the cooling system with some of the prestone flush. The Blue Devil stuff will leave a white residue where it's leaking, but for lightly blown head gaskets, it might buy you some time. I wouldn't keep it in there 24/7 like the company suggests, but if you're desperate, broke, and have to get to work, you might consider it. If your engine is fogging mosquitoes though, I don't think it would work.
     
  7. Sofo

    Sofo Member

    Update:
    The BD is still holding water, all coolant hoses have more pressure in them than I've ever seen on my car before. Kinda worries me, they're pretty hard when hot. I'm looking to get a used 3S-FE put in. The fellow I talked to today said that he can get the whole power train (Eng/Trans) installed for about $700.00. Says the engine will have 75 to 100k miles on it. I'm thinking about going this route, and rebuilding my car's old engine. Current transmission is fine, as far as I know. So spare parts, and the chance to rebuild my old engine. Sound like it's worth a little more for the experience of doing that alone, to me. :D So far I still drive her about 60 miles a day, 6 days a week. I'll say one thing for these cars, they're tough! Might not blow the doors off say a turbo neon, but will damn sure still be driving when that neon is quietly sitting in the drink holder, resigned to it's new life as a Dr. Pepper can. :p
     
  8. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    A motor/box instaslled for $700 is cheap, try to get a later 5S-FE fitted, way more power and uses the same manifolds, electrics etc

    The temp gauge is wonky on these - anywhere near the red and you're already in head warping territory.
    This is how the gauges should look
    [​IMG]
     
  9. Spiderman

    Spiderman Well-Known Member

    This is the way to go.

    You say that it runs ok for a high mileage engine so you may get another 50,000 after the gasket replacement........... for 500 clams it sounds like a sweet deal to me :thumbsup:

    Allow for a few more clams for the 'unexpected'
     
  10. Sofo

    Sofo Member

    Gah! You had to say More Power, Stig! I rarely ever get into red light pissing contests, but I have to admit, it would sure be nice when the Hondas with the fart cans rev next to me. Is it a direct drop in replacement? Color me very curious. :rolleyes:
     
  11. 4thgenceli

    4thgenceli Test Dummy

    Whats better than red light pissing contest is changing from 2nd -3rd gear right beside a honda with a fart can and let off 15lbs of boost.
     
  12. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    Yes, it will bolt to your manifolds etc
    A Gen2/3 GE exhaust header is another cheap bolt on for even more ponies

    I get pissed off when I'm beating someone only to have them come past on the wastegate, I don't pick on mini's or Uno's - so why do they think it's a fair dice?
     

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