Noob question: The engine check light comes on and goes off again while driving. It normally stays on for about 10min at a time It's a Gen1 GE, manual. All temps, pressures etc are normal, levels are normal, new filters etc. Checked the manual & "Take vehicle to Dealer" is NOT an explanation in my book. What is wrong?, what does this stupid light monitor? How do I reset it? Motor was recently transplanted from my scrapped car where it never gave any error. Has new bearings, head gasket, 02 sensor etc
Have you checked for an engine code sinse it started coming on? My guess is there might be a short somewhere, a code would help locate it.
I found the thread but the links are gone (st162.com?) Can you explain the diagnostic proceedure & codes? I had a busted 02 sensor wire and changed it without disconnecting the battery, could explain the light but why is it going on/off?
I believe the o2 sensor and/or wiring is the culpret. It's possible that it might go away if you clear the code. Here's the post w/ the codes: viewtopic.php?f=55&t=380 Here's diagnostic box "check connector" info: http://www.st165-all-trac.net/st162manu ... n/fi22.jpg
Grabbed this from one of mafix's write ups Check Engine Light: Well this is the easiest way to see that there is something wrong with your vehicle. There is a picture of a motor in the lower left hand area of the gauge cluster. If you've never seen it then turn the key to the on position and see if it turns on. It should. If it doesn't then you have a burned out bulb. If you do see a light then you'll need to read the code that is being sent by the ECU. the only way to do this (unless you have the 6000 dollar tool) is to take a paper clip and jump the TE1 or T1 and E1 pins together. The ECU will then unload all the arror codes stored in its ram. The codes read like morse code. Short blinks with short pauses indicate a number and long pauses with no blinks indicate a new number. See here for a list of codes: http://st162.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=343 http://st162.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=380 *note I changed the url's from http://st162.com/... to http://162.net/...
Thanks guys, I f/kn hate computers! banghead Took me like 2 days to program my new alarm properly crazy
No, when I got back I'd already disconnected the battery to swap over the alternator wire and fit the gen2 head harness holder & weld up the new exhaust. It hasn't done it again, so I presume it was complaining about the O2 sensor Thanks
It started again today Code is 4+2 (42?) which says no SPD signal for 5 sec OR temp below 80 deg between 2-6K rpm How f/n vague is that? It's intermittent so I'm inclined to go with the temp although I don't think the AT160 had speed sensing 1)Where the F?? is the speed sensor? If it's in the speedo I'm screwed cause I switched the speedo for an AT160 (240km) unit 2) My new monster rad is cooling much more than the stock unit, the temp dives when the fans kick in I have a sensor on the rad but it's not in use - move the wire to the rad? OR are they referring to EFI temp sensor? could explain the high fuel consumption (it's drinking gas at the moment?) Next step??
well I guess the place to start would be checking if its Temp related (sounds easier then looking for a mysterious speed sensor issue) if i am not mistaken the AT160 Stock temp sensor wires is by the thermostat so you shouldn't need to hook it up to the rad. is your sensor faulty? (not sure how to check) guess i wasn't much help
Sensor and fan is working normally but I fitted a Godzilla Diesel (Corona) radiator and now the needle drops right down when the fans kick in I'll hook up the rad sensor and see if it makes a difference, also try disabling one fan (I wanted to make one manually operated anyway) I also fitted a shroud to the front of the radiators which is obviously also working too well After all the overheating problems and blown gaskets/hoses etc, it looks like I've gone from one extreme to the other
the spd sensor is the speedometer. usually that code indicates harness damage other than anything else.
I disconnected one fan and happily the problem has not come back Seems like at 2000 rpm or more, if the temp goes below 80deg it thinks there's a problem. Guys who climb in and wind a cold car should have this problem all the time? There's a guy next door who's like that and he's never mentioned a check light but he did run big ends a few weeks back and his battery's KO
