Ok, since My drivers side switch wont raise my passenger side window, I have an idea. I want to use a few rocker switches, illuminated ones, mounted in the center console to con trol the windows. Two side by side, one for each window. Im figuring I would need to tap into the wires in question before they enter the door? Or does the door control module in the door play a vital role in the functioning of the windows? I would also like to wire these switches so that they are functional at all times.I would use the door pulls off an ST or SX without power windows, and the door trims would then have no switches, and look factory. Hoping this is a good way to bypass the factory troublesome 20 yr old switches. SO who can help me figure out the wiring? Any thoughts on why this wouldnt work?
Definitely sounds like a viable option. They are just a momentary switch, so they should work fine. Running them, "hot" all the time might find you with some issues. I have a BMW with the european lighted switches, and they draw the battery down... Not a fantastic option, but if you want them to be hot all the time, then that's your prerogative. And yes, you probably would have to tap into the wires, as they hit the door harness. So, on the female side, you have to snip the wires, and add your other wires. I would suggest you put some kind of male/female plugs on them, so that you can unplug them, if necessary. I'm not sure how the wires for these look, maybe check the BGB, but I would believe the hot wire to be, either black with a red strip, red, or yellow. Not always is this true, but you could use a voltmeter, and test for voltage on the wires... Hope some of this helps a little. I was curious about doing something similar, but not, "hot" at all times... You might also think about wiring them into the ignition, so that when you turn it to the locked position, you have 5 seconds to roll them up, before the power draws. GL!
Their is only one issue that I can think off and that is that the window motor is plugged in to the window switch, but really thats all you need is the plug to the motor. Its probably only 2 wires which you can reverse the current to so one way is up and the other is down. You want to use MOMENTARY switches which means they are only on when you are pressing on them. I think the type of switch you need is a DPDT ( double pole double throw) so that you can totally isolate the 2 wires and reverse the current. I have a door appart so I'll take some pics tomorrow for you and I'll see if I can find a wiring diagram for the windows. Then we can go from there.
ST165, I have chosen my switches, They are momentray spring return switches, said to be used for windows and antennas. Look forward to working with you on this one! Perhaps as we go we can record it all, and make a write-up on how to do this. The 5th gen switches have an LED? They arent stand-alone switches though are they? I will see what I can find in my Haynes manual. Cheers for the help so far every1! Oh and Wickyman...If that would work, I would go with that!
As promised some pictures of a power window setup Most of the door parts. Missing are power window switch, some sort of control box, door wiring harness. A close up of the power window moror. I would use 2 of these crimp on connectors so you can retain the original plug on the window motor. If you use 2 connectors like these then you will have to remove the plastic cover for the one that attaches to the horizontal connector so that both connectors will fit inside the original plug. 2 wires send +12v & ground one way and the window goes up reverse the 2 wires and the window goes down. 1 DPDT switch would be required to operate 1 window. 4 SPST switches would be required to operate 1 window. This is probably the type of switch you have. You must also press 2 switches at the same time to operate 1 window. Also note that you said they were iluminated switches and most iluminated switches only supply +12v. 2 of the SPST switches you would require would need to supply ground. If the switches use diodes the ground switches will not iluminate. I'll try and find some wiring diagrams of the celica setup
Finding it hard to understand the drawings of the switch! I know that the current flow is reversed, by swapping power and ground, to change direction of the motor, but how? Power is supplied constant to the switch, which then grounds when pressed completing the circuit? So I will have to have power to the switch, and two ground connections to the switch, from the car body, and the power and grounds will be connected to the motor also? Can we simply tap into the existing wiring, or do we have to go directly to the motor? how hard is this to acess in the door? If its easy to get too, that would be better, leaving the door harness unmolested.........Thanks ALOT for your help so far! PS wil just get DPDT switches, maybe can just put LEDS in the assembly under the switch...
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productVie...&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=401 Thats the switch you want. DPDT Switch Centre Off Spring Return Both Sides Momentary contacts with spring returns to centre on both sides.These are commonly used for car power antennas and power windows.Rated at 10A 250V.
Thats the one I meant! excellent. Will grab two, and the wire and connectors. Does power get provided to the switches, do i need to get fuses also? We just have to figure out the wiring now!
Okay so heres another picture to show the difference between this motor and a normal 12v accessory like a stereo which has a constant ground wire and a constant 12v wire. On our window motor either wire can carry 12v or ground depending on what you want the window to do so both wires must be switched that is why a DPDT switch is usefull. How does a DPDT switch work? I have made some pretty little stick pictures to show the side and back view of a DPDT rocker switch. The back view has numbers associated with the 6 leads that come out of the switch. What the numbers mean. 3&4 are inputs(supplies) to the switch there are actually 2 switches in a double throw switch 1,3,5 make up one switch 2,4,6 make up the second switch With the rocker switch in the up position - what is input to pin3 will be output to pin5 - what is input to pin4 will be output to pin6 With the rocker switch in the down position - what is input to pin3 will be output to pin1 - what is input to pin4 will be output to pin2
You need to make 2 custom 2 into 1 wires. You need to - join the wires from pins 1 & 6 - join the wires from pins 2 & 5 This will provide you with the 2 output wires that you need to send to the motor. Pins 3&4 will get input with 12v and ground. Say pin3 is 12v and pin4 is ground. If the switch works in the reverse of what you want it to do (ie window goes up when you press down) then reverse pin3 to ground and pin4 to 12v.
So 2 and 5, 1 and 6 will be the outputs the the motor? This is really starting to come together. I can understand it alot bettter now too. i have done alot of wiring and electrical work, but this is a bit more complex! Without your help though, wouldnt have gotten this far. Thanks O yeah, where should i source my 12v? Could I get it from the ignition barrel light and the acc at the same time? what size fuse will i need to be running? same as the factory power window one i guess?
Sorry kind of busy right now. There is probably a good source in the fusebox but I havent had a chance to check. Are you going to run new wire from the switches to the window motors or are you going to try and use the existing wiring.
Been rethinking slightly. Going to check and see if i can mount my new switches on the doors, in the same place as the originals, using the outer plate, as the sizes are very similar. There would be a little gap, perfect for a few LEDS behind the switches. Plus then i should be able to simply source power and ground from the original switch plug, and then just run new wires to the motors... Will have a play, mock up the switches in the panel and get pics. Z You have been more than helpful, there is no need to apologise
Well, I have done it. Was just one of the things on my-to-do list, but I had to do it after gettin home from work this arvo because the windows wouldnt go up at all! All i got was a click from the motor. Grrr. So anyway, ripped off the trims and pulled out the multi-meter. Found a power and ground, and the wires to the motors. Power on drivers side is Blue/white Ground on drivers side is black/white Red and green wires trun to both doors for the motors. I wired the switches as your instructions said, works perfect. ATM the switches are just sitting loosely in the hole where the p/window switches used to be. Just did the drivers door. Any suggestions for mounting them there? Il get pics up asap. Also, now my interior ligghts dont work! GRRRRRRRR
