when building a custom box there are several things to consider. you'll need to know these things before even starting: speaker recommendations from manufacturer, type of box, material being used, purpose, area of mounting, total area available, weight and power levels. i will go over most of the basics. the speaker recommendations are needed and usually available at the manufactures website. they will supply you with 3 numbers for that speaker. they are all volume recommendations. one should be for ported, one for sealed, and one that we never use - bandpass. the reason we never use bandpass boxes: - they create a lot of turbulance in the box and ports - they are absolute murder on your subs - they sound like crap, go to any SQ competition. i'll divide this up into general box structure based on the 3 things that are judged. why MDF? because it is porus, flexs accordingly, retains its shape and size very well, and it's inexpensive. SQ this is a competition for those people who love a truly balanced and loud system. we are focusing on sub boxes here but you will need so much more than this. to have the best sounding, most crisp bass possible and have it at a level that won't distort or over power the rest of the system, you'll be building a sealed box. there are several key items you'll need for this. i'll explain the most dramatic of these and you can scale down from there. you should be building all your boxes from Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF). in this case glue and either finish nails or screws. you can then cover them with what you please. sealed boxes are the easiest to make. simply take the volume from the recommendation and build. get as close to that number as possible without going over. in SQ smaller is better, but it still has to be close to prevent blowing out the surround on the sub. i recommend mounting the sub non-inverted for this. for every cubic foot you need for your box you should add 1 square foot of sound deadening material loose inside the box. easily gotten at local walmarts and such. just throw that stuff in there and mount the sub. i'll assume you've thought about how you are going to wire the sub. and that's it, you are done. now securly mount the sub so it is facing either up in a hatch or sideways in a trunk. SPL this is a competition for people who go for the loudest possible amount of sound. this level of sound is measured in pressure change inside the vehicle. the best way to create this change in pressure is to build a ported box. some quick notes on ported boxes: they are always bigger than sealed boxes, the ports are never in the direct firing of the sub, and for SPL bigger is generally louder. port size will vary from box to box but are generally square, 1/4 to 1/2 the size of the side they are on, and fire in the path that creates the most volumetric pressure. again you'll need the recommended box size but the design will play a huge role on the amount of air you can move. build your box out of 3/4 or thicker MDF using drywall screws and wood glue. never reverse mount your subs in this configuration. I recommend facing the box directly backwards in a hatch or foward in a trunk. Show this is functional and beautiful. it may not sound the best or be the loudest but it will stop everyone who passes by. for this you can use 1/2 inch MDF finish nails and glue only. the easiest way to do this is build a base box that can be hidden. then build 2 rings for sub mounting. the get some 2x2's and mount the rings where you want them. now you should have a cube that's missing one side with the 2 sub rings floating above that open face. now take headliner material and a stapler and stretch that material over the open face. staple the material over the rings and staple it down. then pulling the material taught, staple it around the rest of the cube. then cut the sub inner circles out. now we begin the fiberglass process.
I have two 8" SoloBaric DVC's I could use. I dont care which way the woofer points - bass is bass and the SB's are great speakers for small enclosures. I just want that nice stealthy look without having to sacrafice my hatch space. I'd rather loss the weight of the spare and replace it with a woofer anyhow. Besides who really runs a spare? I tossed mine the day I got the car and bought a can of tire sealer, a tire patch kit, CAA road side assistance and run flat tires for the 17" rims Right now the only thing in my spare tire well is a bag of silica.
where have you gotten your information from. solo barics require the 2nd largest area for maximum reverb and dbs. the only thing that takes a bigger box are audiobahns.
I got A huge ass box it takes up 80% of trunk i have enough room for the battery and my amps that are in a standup position on the right rear.
I dont know, they are the older SB - the round ones. I got them from a guy who had them in his Feiro in some tiny boxes behind the seats, powered buy a 1000W Orion and they absolutely pounded. Maybe Im confused with the fact that they claim there 10" hit like others 12" and there 12' hit like others 15" etc, etc...But Im pretty sure I remember reading on Crutchfields website that the older(round) SB's required the smaller boxes compaired to other manufactures.
