-the front speakers can be replaced with 3.5" speakers if you keep the box with the passive radiators in them. if you remove the boxes and trim the dash under the grill you can fit 4" or 4x6 plate speakers. if you remove the front boxes you will loose a lot of mid and bass. -the rear speakers fit 4" and 5.25" with cutting in the stock box. -head units can fit anything from single to double din. good locations for upgrades: -the upper a-pillar it would be good to mount a set of tweeters. custom boxes can be made for the automatics to fit in the kick panels and use 4" or 5.25". the best sub box and firing direction: -well for volume you'll want to go ported, for crisp sound you'll want sealed, and never use bandpass boxes. -the best place is right behind the rear seats and between the strut towers in the hatchbacks. make the box fit tight between the strut towers and face the rear of the car. you'll thank me later. -in trunk backs i recommend a single sub box placed on the passenger side in the absolute rear of the trunk and facing the drivers side. seats up or down shouldn't make that big of a difference. some things to note on power: -shorter runs of power wire yeild better power transfer. -always use larger than necessary power wire. -always use a slightly larger fuse than needed but not too big. overkill on the fuse could lead to your entire car brning to a crisp. -pull power directly from your battery, not from a fuse box or jump terminal. -use much bigger than needed ground cable. -always use a clean paintless ground with a good connection. (the seat mounting brackets are good places) -use a ground kit on the motor it actually works -rebuilt high amp alternators are a must -capacitors are a must. for every 500 watts you'll need 1 farad. -voltage gauge is a must. and not the stock one.
I mounted tweeter's on my door panel's right at the front near the mirror's.....I cut a hole with an xacto knife and ran the wire's through the existing hole's in the door....they looked and sounded great!
-ground wire should be either equal or larger than your power wire going from amp to ground and ground to battery -RCA's should not be ran on the same side of the car as power wires -for the best sound avoid using "loud"s, bass boosts, or any other distortion devices -line drivers/external eqs are great to match levels -box position really depends on port design, for simplicity rearward facing is efficient - i do not see how capacitors, voltmeters, or high output alts are "musts" -voltmeters are a great luxury to have -caps are pointless unless u have a serious underpowering./wiring issue -u can avoid using high output alts with overkill on wiring unless your going REALLY big
Seeing we are on stereo in our cars, anyone know how i can make the whole back door stop making so much noise when i crank up the bass?
Just foam with adhesive on one side....if it's your hatch that's rattling like crazy just put a line of that shit all the way around inside where anything touches, that should lessen the rattling...
