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Battery Relocation Qs

Discussion in 'Electronics' started by st162rocket, Oct 6, 2011.

  1. st162rocket

    st162rocket Well-Known Member

    Got a Summit Racing Battery Relocation Kit and it seems straight forward except there is one main thing i still don't understand:
    How do you connect the positive wire from the battery(running from the back to the engine bay) to the original positive wire where the fusible link is?
    What would I need to make that connection?
    Plus should I buy a circuit breaker? since all the videos on youtube seem to include it.
  2. jwagner162

    jwagner162 Well-Known Member Donated!

    -on 09 i just ran the wire up and put a crimp type end on the pos cable. so i could bolt the wire to the block. then lots of electrical tape. ghetto i know, but i couldn't think of a better way.
    -this time around i decided to relocate the whole fuse block with the battery so it looks good. theres about 8 wires youd need to add 10-12 ft to, but itll look better.
    -for me this just ended up turning into a wire tuck, so you wont see hardly any of the wireing in the bay. this would be the way over the top, take your entire car apart, pita method. should look awesome, as long as i dont mix up any wires.
  3. LionTR

    LionTR Well-Known Member Donated!

    Would you mind to share some pics of that relocation kit, and from your process like a how-to?
  4. jwagner162

    jwagner162 Well-Known Member Donated!

    -09, this was a kit from summit aswell. would have been nicer if the box was smaller.

  5. 4thgenceli

    4thgenceli Test Dummy

    I will post pics from my relocation. I will be home abt 4pm. I know they were in my project here but that was lOst.
  6. 4thgenceli

    4thgenceli Test Dummy

    Here are a couple links.

    http://www.celicatech.com/forums/showth ... st30080827

    Basically, I ran the B+ wire into the engine bay. Then I used a grounding block (that I insulated with rubber so it doesn't ground out) and split my 1/0 wire into smaller (8gauge) leads. One of these goes to the starter with the other going into the fusible link where the old battery post would of gone. I will (when I get home) run another wire from the amp B+ feed over back to the AMP fusible link to complete the relocation/big3 upgrade (as I stole these wires from the '89 when the '87 needed them).
  7. 4thgenceli

    4thgenceli Test Dummy

  8. st162rocket

    st162rocket Well-Known Member

    To add to what jwagner162 showed you. Here's a picture of the kit.

    This is how I saw it at first.

    Awesome, I checked out the links. So I'll get a distribution box located in the engine bay and a circuit breaker located in the back with the battery.
  9. 4thgenceli

    4thgenceli Test Dummy

    The 'proper' way to do it would be running a large wire (I choose 1/0 personally). Connect to the battery B+ terminal.

    From there, no more than 12" or 18" install either a circuit breaker or fuse. I have a 200a inline fuse in mine.

    Run that up the side protecting it against anywhere it may be abraded (sharp edges, etc).

    Then you can either run it directly the the fusible links, or do as I did and use a distribution block to spread it out to the necessary components.

    Honestly for the price of the Summit kit ($160) you can get some high quailty wiring and connections.

    I bought all mine from KnuKonceptz.

    KND-23 KonFUSED Ground Distribution System --> $17.49
    KBT-30N **NEW** KonFused Negative Battery Terminal --> $18.99
    KBT-30P **NEW** KonFused Positive Battery Terminal --> $18.99
    KLMX0R **NEW** KLMX Kable 1/0 Candy Apple Red Power / Ground Cable --> $1.75 (by the foot, 15 feet purchased)
    KLMX0BK **NEW** KLMX Kable 1/0 Graphite Black Power / Ground Cable --> $1.75 (by the foot, 3 feet purchased)
    KLMX4BL KLMX Kable 4 Gauge Metallic Blue Power/Ground Cable --> $0.89 (each, 10 purchased)
    FH-20 In-Line Waterproof ANL Fuse Holder w/ Fuse --> $19.99
    KLMX0BL KLMX Kable 1/0 Metallic Blue Power / Ground Cable --> $1.75 (by the foot, 8 purchased)

    Sub Total $129.86
    Ship Rate $12.99
    Order Total $142.85

    Add $10 or $15 for a box and it's still cheaper than Summit (with better wiring)
  10. 1fstgts

    1fstgts Well-Known Member Staff Member Administrator Moderator Donated!

    If I have some time, Ill go out and take some pics my battery relocation. I made it all myself.
  11. 1fstgts

    1fstgts Well-Known Member Staff Member Administrator Moderator Donated!

    So I took a picture of what I did under the hood. My harness is disconnected from the red stud since my engine is missing. But you get the point. My battery is back in the hatch. That red stud is a fiberglass insulator.(We use them on wireless cell sites). It has stainless bolts on either side. So one is through the fenderwell and the other is on top. The solid copper buss bar is my main ground that everything in the engine bay is tied to, then tied to negative of the battery. And I mean everything. I extended all grounds to reach that point. I have a #2 wire running from it to the main body.

    I also recommend that any electrical connection that is made ie: to motor, chassis, etc pickup something call NO-OX. You can find it in the electrical section of most home improvement stores. It prevents oxidation, especially from to different metals(oxidation occurs faster with two different metals). Any time you have to make a connection to something use stainless hardware(nut, washers,flat and lock and nut). I know this may seem like overkill, but Ive been doing electronics/electrical stuff since I was 10. And this made a world of difference in the electrical system of the car. You can put an ohm meter just about anywhere in my car and read less .05 of an ohm to battery negative.

    Attached Files:

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