The Burpcar is soon going to need motor mounts and waterpump/timing belt. As a former Datsun guy I don't feel comfortable working on front drive cars so...I'll supply the parts and doner car ('87 GT-S) if you will do the labor locally. We can film the operation and post it on the 162 website for all to enjoy. Thanxs, Vicdat
this is how i do my motor mounts (i'm assuming only the front/rear torque mounts as the side ones never seem to die): -jack up left side of the car in the front, put a jack stand. -grab a breaker bar + cheater bar + 19mm and take out the 6 bolts (3 on each side) of the west-east crossmember -get a 14mm wrench to take out the middle bolt that holds it onto the north-south crossmember -the west-east crossmember will be lowering itself as you take out the 14mm bolt -take out the two plastic covers underneath the front/south mounts. -take out the front two 14mm bolts (careful not the strip these) holding the north-south crossmembers -then the rear two 14mm bolts -then the 4 bolts holding the two mounts. -then you'll have access to the mounts the motor will not fall because the weight is carried by the side mounts, but the torque is held back by the front/rear mounts. so overall, 15 bolts to take out + a jack stand. (just make sure to torque wrench the crossmembers back on
It just looks like the water pump/t belt would be a lot easier with the top right mount out of the way... I vaguely remember how tight a fit for wrenches and hands just getting the cover off, let alone getting the timing right. I would much rather watch and help someone who has done this a few times.
Yes you do have to removed the right mount to take off the t-belt and water pump. Where in so-cal are you located?
man, i love taking those bolts out with a giant breaker bar and when they loosen you feel this sudden feeling of success lol. too bad you're so far!
Went ahead and did all the motot mount last weekend. Very easy job...did it by myself on a friend's lift. The water pump mysteriously quit seeping a few weeks ago and it's not overheating or using any coolant, so I'll cross my fingas on that issue. By the way, I also replaced the plug wires and made my own cover that goes across the top of the head where the wires go thru (mine was missing) and the one I made was from clear anodized alum so it has a sweet mirror-like finish. I'll send pics if I can figure out how... Vicdat
Hey Trel, This motor had a valve job, oil pump, and water pump/t-belt about 35 to 40,000 miles ago. I'm hoping to hold off for another 20 to 40 thou if possible on any additional internal work... Funny thing, now that the motor mounts are good I can hear the other noises that were being masked by all the clunking of the bad mounts. At least is sure nice not to have to slow down to a crawl just to go over a small crack in the road. Vicdat
Finally went ahead and did the water pump and T belt last weekend. Prolly good timing because the WP had started leaking again (as I feared it would). The belt looked great, except it had some major chunks out along the edge...I think it was occasionally rubbing the inside of the plastic cover due to the bad motor mounts (since replaced). Now it seems OK. For a couple days right after the work I was getting a minor spiking of the guage and twice a small puddle under the engine near the rear. Both have stopped and now the guage holds steady at just under half and I notice it runs much better at that temp. When it was spiking (similar to the original problem that I had a year ago) it would run rough. I almost took out the ECU Temp sensor to clean it (which solved the problem before) but it seems like it fixed itself. Maybe there was a little air in the system that worked its way out...
I noticed that too on my car minus the leaking. I think I just had air pockets. But changing your thermostat is also a good idea while you're there.
I have already discussed this at great length - http://www.st162.net/forum/showthread.php?2201-Diagnosing-Cooling-problems Changing timing or belts is easy if you keep your head and go slowly, always re-check your work before firing up the motor - http://www.st162.net/forum/showthre...ore-jdm-oddities&p=66847&viewfull=1#post66847 Watch those leaks, could be leaking core plugs on the rear of the block or a pump housing O-ring. There is no need to burp the system and there is nowhere for air to become trapped. The radiator cap and overflow bottle are designed to let any air out and suck water back in to replace it. If you don't bellieve me, let some water out and go for a drive, when you open the cap the radiator will be full again Spiking is usually a sticking thermostat or the fans failing to kick in at the correct temperature. Later motors are all fitted with a much bigger thermostat It's vital to flush your radiators (both) & pipes, head etc till the water is clear, use antifreeze and check it stays green/red for the life of the motor or you'll have premature rusting of pipes, radiators, pumps, heads, blocks etc and nasty, difficult-to-find leaks (see the water pipe o-ring fitting on this motor) The temp gauge is a joke and 1/2 position is actually MAX, a common mistake and has resulted in many blown motors, gauges should look like this:
It scares me how much Stig knows about these little turds...don't get me wrong, I love my daily driver GT-S... it just seems like as soon as you get a couple problems licked that a new one rears it ugly head. Just today it seemed like my alternator was starting to whine a bit. Gonna check first and see if the belts a little too tight after the WP job Vicdat
