87' Celica Cranks, Fires, Stalls!

what happens if you keep your foot on the pedal when it starts? clean out the AFM's plugs? make sure all the rubber tubing is clamped shut, including the AFM itself. these cars are very picky when there's a leak somewhere in the intake hoses.

as for the fuel filter, it's a pain in the ass..iirc you need two tools to take the bottom out, one to hold it in place while the other one should come out. be careful as the fuel lines may be weak.

 

afm for the stalling......make sure its clean and fully plugged in.....make sure your tube doesnt have any cracks or holes in it.

 

Another convert from Toyotacelicas.com, glad to see you decided to join us hear.

You must be right hand drive if the fuel filter is on the passenger side. Australia ? we have a few lads from down under

So heres some pictures of the fuel filter location

This is a fuel pump from a 92 camry so its not quite the same it has the fuel level
sender built into it but the Celica pump should have a screen/filter on the end of it like the camry does


the fuel pump is in the gas tank its the round bit with 3 tubes that hasn't been removed yet.
The other hole is for the fuel level sender


From what you have described so far I'm going to have to guess that your fuel pump
is toast or is seriously ill. It may also be your fuel pressure regulator.

I did warn you about that bottom fuel pump connection, I still doubt its your fuel filter but
then again if your fuel pump didn't have that screen on the end then it may well be your
fuel filter

If you are going to change the fuel filter,
1 remove the top union bolt first
2 remove the 2 bolts that attach it to the bracket
3 do not try to rotate the nut on the end of the gas line
put a wrench on that nut to hold it in place, chances are
the nut is rusted solid to the gas line and will just twist
or break the line if rotated
4 rotate the filter counter clockwise while keeping the
fuel line nut stationary

Do you know if you have a 3s-fe or a 3s-ge engine ?
4 bolt or 5 bolt rims ?
is your check engine light flashing ?
When you turn the key to the run position do you hear any sound from the fuel pump ?

This is an overall description of the EFI system (Electronic Fuel Injection)
once I know which engine you have I can give you more detailed tests




The whole EFI section of the manual is posted down in the technical section
ST162 EFI System

The orange thing that the red arrow is pointing to is the fuel pressure regulator
you can check and see if the vacuum hose is hooked up properly



Try bridging B & FP in the diagnostics plug in the engine bay, should be just in front
of your clutch master cylinder, that will make the fuel pump run constantly

PICTURES PICTURES PICTURES PICTURES PICTURES PICTURES PICTURES
WE NEED PICTURES

 

Sounds like your airbox is unplugged, if not re-seat the plug and move the flap
to clear any corrosion
Check the air filter is not clogged and the air pipes are not leaking or cracked

Fuel filter is a PITA, I use looong extensions for the top bolt and two spanners for the
bottom.
Then you can unbolt the bracket

 

Wow 3-1 for the AFM over a fuel pressure problem

Its been my experience that if its the AFM your going to experience 1 of 2 options
1 the car won't start at all
2 the car will start but run like crap, and if it does start it will keep running like crap

Why I'm guessing fuel pump is that as soon as you have the key in the run position
the fuel pump turns on so you are developing fuel pressure even before the car starts
so if you have a weak pump it may develop enough fuel rail pressure to briefly run the
engine. At 750 rpm it only takes 1/2 as much fuel to run the engine as it does at 1500rpm
which is probably where its going to idle when the engine is cold. Even idling at 750rpm
if the fuel pump can only deliver enough fuel to sustain the engine at 650rpm then it may
develop enough pressure while cranking to get the car started but once running the engine
will require more fuel than the pump can deliver.

Anyways just in case its your AFM heres some info on it


Sometimes things don't get translated properly or their just not to proficent in english
in either case I would suggest

If the resistance is not as specified, replace the meter.

 

Heres a picture of a celica fuel pump you'll note the filter that should be on it
if theirs no filter on yours then its increasing the likelyhood of a fuel delivery
problem, either your engine bay filter is clogged or the fuel pump has sucked
in dirt that has damaged it.


If you want to test the fuel pump to see how much gasoline its pumping you can
find the fuel return pipe. One end of it will be connected to the fuel pressure regulator
with a rubber hose. The other end of it will be connected to the metal fuel return
line via a rubber hose. This is a 3s-ge engine but 3s-fe should be very similar
(technically it a mix of a 3s-ge and a 3s-gte but you don't need to know that)




This end of the fuel return pipe connects to the metal gas line that returns unused gas
back to the tank. You can remove this hose and get another piece of hose and a good
sized jar and connect one end of the hose to the fuel return pipe and place the other
end in the jar and then you can see how much fuel the pump is delivering. You shouldn't
have to crank the engine just placing the key in the run position should start the fuel pump

 

the reason i say afm is if you unplug your afm it will start but stall , if you press the gas then it will run only as long as you rev the gas......

 

not the case for my FE. my ebay fuel pump has a pretty loud WHEEEN sound when it's running and i only hear this when the key is on "start" or it's running.

 

:thumbsup: In my opinion way better than a 3s-fe

+1 :crazy

CV's are pretty easy, the drivers side is probably harder than the passenger side.
I am told that a fifth gen passenger side axle is stronger than a 4th gen and a dirrect
replacement.
You should be able to rebuild the slave cylinder.
The AFM hose does crack over time

No you were put on this site by this user, I replied to your topic in the 4th gen section
and I sent you a private message and sugested that you switch to this site.

Its not a bad site but theirs so much more knowledge here about 4th gens.
You allready have the car fixed but on the other site you haven't even had
a reply to your latest post

You'll like it here, where abouts in Australia ? We have a few members from Australia maybe one of them is near you

Is your fuel pump missing its filter if so let me know I can probably find you one
or maybe one of the Australian lads may have an extra one.

 

dave, does the GE prime the fuel lines with fuel in the ON position? wonder why they didn't do that for the fe...

WOO

 

ge sucks....the fe rules........lol

 

Ahhhhhhhhh my mistake :smilielol5

I guess the 3s-fe made the 3s-ge look so pathetic they had to come up with
the 3s-gte engine and stick a turbocharger on it to gain some respectability

Still given the choice I'll take the 3s-ge and 3s-gte engines in my Celica's over the rather
pathetic :barf 3s-fe :ack2 engine in my RAV4 or the 5s-fe engine in my Camry
:lol2 but if your quite happy cruising along in the slow lane then by all means the
3s-fe engine is the choice to make, you may even want to cut a hole in the floor
where your feet are so you can get a little added power like Fred Flintstone used
to do. Me I like going fast, I pass cop cars when I can get away with it, it won't
be too long before Dirty Deeds get a ST185 engine and that will pretty close to
double its power. :naughty

 

Yeah sorry some times I get a little excited allways nice to see another 4th gen
running especially if your a young lad and its your first car, you can't do much
better than a 4th gen Celica. If I remember correctly I think it was the fuel pump
that you had to replace to get your 4th gen running ?

I thought it did but I checked the manual and the inspection for the cold start injector
would seem to suggest that 3s-fe fuel pump and the 3s-ge fuel pump don't turn
on with the key in the run position or there would be no need to bridge B+ & FP

 

ah okay. wouldn't it be better to have it running before you start? i've found that for example if i leave the car not running for a week, it seems like i have to wait 10secs+ to have any fuel shot into the combustion chamber. i'm sure it can't be too hard to wire it up to do that...

and yes, it was the fuel pump. pretty sure it died because the tank was full of 6 year old gas.

 

-wierd. 09 you could hear the fuel pump when the key was turned to on. however the dog you cant hear anything. and if the dog is cold it takes multiple cranks to get it going. my guess is that the hose from the f.p. to the lines (in-tank) has a leak and is slowly bleeding the pressure. everything in the bay holds pressure fine. i know im in for a tank drop soon.

-im pretty sure the pump should always be on when the key is on, but the whole system should hold pressure.

-i think the bridge just tricks the ecu into running the csi even if the engine is warm?

 

On left hand drive cars its on the drivers side down by my left foot.
For you it may be down to the right of your gas pedal. Its "C" in
the diagram


I don't know of any good aftermarket places their are very few aftermarket
parts available for our 4th gens. Most of what was available has long since
been discontinued.

To test the altenator you can have a garage do a load test on it. Another
option is to start the car and once its running disconnect the battery. If
the car continues to run then the altenator is working. You can try turning
on headlights and other accesories to place a big load on it.