3sge - starts, idles, dies

It is possible the only thing that worries me is that the only times you say
it runs properly is when you have a cell code and the computer will go into
a default mode when it detects a problem so it may just be masking a
different problem.

If you want to test your O2 sensor

 

I hope I'm wrong to

 

just make sure the ecu is correct for the engine pre/post wise. if you have a brown injector engine you should have the early ecu, if the injectors are green youd need the later ecu. i can get you numbers later today if you want to double check. the early motor uses a 1 wire o2, and the later uses a 2 or 4 (cant remeber off hand.) there are a few wiring differences that can cause codes. 09 had an 89 ecu on an early motor, i wired it to get the o2 code out but it always had a run lean and a run rich code. iirc it would have been easier to run an early ecu on a late motor. either way if your not going standalone the correct jdm or early euro ecu for either is an awesome upgrade.

 

Weird, my car runs with or without the O2 sensor connected and there's no error.
All JDM gen1's have one wire sensors

Recently I came across a weird problem, car was stalling and appeared to be running out of fuel for no reason.
Drained and replaced the fuel and all was well again - bad fuel?, water in fuel?

You can run 1,3 or 4 wire O2 sensors, 3,4 wire is better as it has a built in heater to ensure more accurate readings. (O2 sensor only operates from 600 degC upward). 3,4 wires can be used anywhere but 1 wire sensors can only be used on the headers. I think USDM 88- has the sensor moved further back?
2 of the wires are earth, one is the sensor and one is 12v for the heater.
3 wire sensors are the same but the 2 earth wires are joined inside.

I run green (USDM) or pink inectors (gen2) with the JDM ecu but for the test you may want smaller injectors to bring your NOx levels down. If you have EGR fitted you need the greens at least but for the test brown might be a better option.

JDM ECU is better, but you need to disable EGR and they are f/n hard to find now, prices start at $150 with most asking $200-$250. OEM price is something like $2500

 

Just throwing ideas around, like I said the 1 wire sensor only works from 600 degC on, I wonder if it's shorting something when it switches on

I had to switch injector plugs, which is why I'm with the pink/greens. Forgot the others were square but you coulf fit some from a 3S-FE/5S-FE. I meant block the EGR with a JDM ecu after the test for some extra grunt.

#09 can answer the ECU question better, he has tried both types

 

more power. ive found if you use the correct year jdm ecu you will notice more power instantly. from my exp its plug n play if its the correct one. some euro are the same as usdm and some are the same as jdm, it depends on what market in europe they were built for, and what the regs were. if your interested i can get you the numbers of what youd be looking for, but we need to first identify what your correct setup should be and get that going. dollar for dollar switching to euro or jdm ecu is an awesome upgrade.

-the harness has some small changes to it in the green injector setup. so if the harness has the plugs for the green injectors run those and use the 4 wire o2 with an 89 ecu. i guess the easiest way to figure out if your setup is correct is to go with what the harness is setup for. if you open your ecu and take a pic of the chip side of the board i can tell you what ecu it is and if its correct.

 

Thanks 09, I recall you didn't have any issues fitting the JDM to USDM harness.

We started an ECU thread a while back but it was wiped in the crash, a lot of effort went into that
I'll check if I still have the p/n listing

If anyone wants JDM ecu's for any model, PM me and I'll see what I can do

 

it could just be thier adjustments from the factory. i have this theroy about the afm's. there are so many cars are equiped with that system (nd) even mazdas, subies, ect. my thought is that the afm's and probably even the tps's are the same units they just change the adjustment for each engine, and market. look at how much adjustment you can get from each one.....waaay more on either side of what you actually need. some of the pulgs ect. may be different but im willing to bet theres only a few sets of "guts" out there spanning nearly all the nd 80-90's efi systems.

-i could be totally wrong though.

-also, ive never had any issues with the ecu's not working with the other electronics (if the years are correct). i have all the early ecu's (jdm, usdm, euro) and all are plug n play with a noticable power gain on the jdm and euro. but like i said earlier, the harness/injectors need to be correct or corrected. so from what ive found you could consider it pre/post facelift setups. but iirc 86-88 are the same, its just the 89 that saw the green injectors/harness.

 

Well I'm glad to hear that you have it running now and thank you for adding to my knowledge of problems and solutions for our 4th gen motors

 

awesome!

-off the top of my head the min octane is usdm mid grade w/ the jdm ecu. im sure you could run regular and not ever notice a diff. I do however run premium since I dont drive it that much. my land cruiser also takes premium and its my daily, so no big expense difference for me.

 

min JDM recommended is 95+ but I've run them on 91 without problems
My FE on the other hand refused to run right on 91