I have a 86' ST162R with a 3SFE motor. I can generally start the motor when it is cold and it drives well. Once I stop the motor, it will not start again sometimes for 3 to 24 hours. I have checked the fuel at the filter and it has plenty of fuel and pressure. It has spark (varying strength). I have changed the coil, plugs and rotor. Does anyone have any suggestions please.
Well, you have fuel, you have fire, all you need is air....so I'd start looking there, make sure your afm isn't faulty, make sure you're TVIS system is functioning properly... I think there's some writeup's on that in the how to section.
TVIS?? (3sfe) Yeah we need a tad bit more info- How does it run when it is cranked anbd driving any sputtering - stalling - ?? When the last time(if ever)- you have ran a OBD on the ECU ?
The engine still cranks over as per normal but just won't start. On some occassions the car will not restart if you start it, then immediately turn it off and then try to restart it. So it would still be cold. Other times it will restart with a small amount of cranking for a while then won't restart at all. It definitely won't restart when hot. I dont have a fuel pressure guage but the pressure at the top of the fuel filter appears very good. The local Toyota dealer does not seem to have the diagnostic tools. I still have to obtain a workshop manual for the car. What is a TVIS? Where is it? and what does it do?
u dont have it so it doesnt matter. sounds like my fuel pump problem from my celebrity but then i was never really sure thats what it was haha
OK- So this is what we have.. 1. 3SFE- Cranks when when cold 2. runs fine- until it hits normal running temps. 3. When turned off- after hitting normal running temps- does not want to start thier after. 4. 3SFE has spark and gas, and air since he can drive it in the morning. Stupid question but does your Thermostat work?? And does our cluster temp gauge give you the correct reading? Cause if not you could be overheating the engine and not even knowing it-in which it will not crank due to the signal the ECU has recvd from the sensors.. Plus check your Radi. hose housing the one in front of the Dizzy- and make sure you dont have a sensor broken-(Those sensors will get dryrotted and will burst into dust- so be careful) ....
yeah my guess is something in the temp system. check the thermostat, it's kind of a bitch to get to but once I changed that after doing a rad flush my heating probs were gone. cause if it overheats too bad it will refuse to start.
I was playing with it tonight and when I started it things sounded normal. When it would not start next time I noticed a click and a buzzing sound which went for a short time. I located the buzzing sound at the switch arangement under the throttle body. I pulled the electrical connector in and out until the buzzing stopped. The car started immediately. It buzzed next attempt and would not start. Repeated the plug action until the buzzing stopped and lo and behold it started. The switch arangement has R/SISCV on the side of it. I don't know what this does but it seems to be the problem??? Graeme
idle speed control valve that makes sence to me. does it start then die right away? it could be clogged or faulty. if it waS ME id take off the air hose to the throttle body, and clean the tb inside with some throtlebody/carb cleaner, making sure to open the throttle plate and get in the holes to the valve... wait for some1 to say bad idea though, some1 may say itll wreck the valve but it should be fine, i used to do that all the time this is if it just dies right away not if it wont fire btw
well i may have good news for you then. i believe i have a throttle body with everything on it. i'll have to check so don't hold it to me.
in answer to you Youds, no the engine doesn't die off, it runs fine until the next time I try to start it and it just cranks over. I pulled the idle speed control valve off and dismantled it. It was siezed with carbon. I cleaned it out and got it all rotating again. The result is that it appears to be starting on almost all occassions now but sometimes requires about 5 to 10 seconds of cranking. The buzzing is all but gone. I have gained about 700rpm at idle but will adjust that when my manual arrives. Is it normal to have to crank the 3s-fe motor for any length of time to start it (hot)?? Cold it is all but immediate.
they vary. it may be something that is from the ICV. we all have this problem from time to time. since that valve was jammed with carbon it might be a good idea to do a fuel injection service and burn the rest of the carbon out. i would also check the pcv system and make sure you are not getting blow by. and finally check the intake tubing to make sure there is no cracks or open spots. these will cause your car to build the carbon.
Well sadly it looks like I was not totally successful. It still has the same trouble starting, but will start if I play with the ICV plug until the buzzing stops. I now have a manual on CD and have also checked the engine trouble codes. It is indicating code 11 and I have noticed that the ignition key is sticky so I am wondering????? as one of the problem areas for code 11 was the ignition key. I will also check and clean as many earths as I can find. :roll:
Hello again. Problem appears to have been solved. Thanks to all who helped with suggestions. We were looking at the issue today when we decided to attach a jumper battery via leads to ensure that we did not run out of cranking ability. the dam car started every time so we disconnected the jumper leads and all it would do was crank over until the leads were re attached. The leads of course were in tight contact with the outside of the clamp. The problem: faulty positive battery clamp It was fitted with the original Toyota wrap around tin ones, which had stretched. I fitted a set of new heavy duty brass ones and it starts first time every time (so far :wink: ) Thanks Graeme
