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1987 GT-FOUR 177000km - just got it, got 2 codes and fun times

Discussion in 'Your 4th Gen beauty' started by trel162, Dec 8, 2013.

  1. trel162

    trel162 Well-Known Member Donated!

    It's running super rich during warm up then goes good after it's warm.
    Again, no code when warmed up but when temp drops (idle) code comes back at low revs.

    Okay vacuum leaks- that hose goes to the fuel vsv behind the intake then back to the fuel rail.
    It's either been bypassed already or just disconnected at that end.
    To remove it fully, do I block the nipple on the fuel rail?
    What advantage is there to having it or not?

    - both vac hoses under the ps pump are disconnected. One has a bolt in it the other pops off.
    - need to check tvis vac lines

    Wheres a good place to find a catch can online?

    I changed the oil when I got it and didn't take a close look.

    Ac idle up- I want to use ac so will try find another. My st162s don't seem to have this part?

    Next steps are -
    cooling pressure test - replace coolant, hoses, thermostat, fan switch, maybe csi and efi sensors
    - plugs leads cap rotor
    - fuel filter
    - alternator looks damaged-pulley is too close to the housing maybe fkd.
    - timing belt, tensioner idler seals water pump oil pump
    - remove sump and check bearings.

    I hope it doesn't come to this-no time or money just yet
  2. trel162

    trel162 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Further inspection

    Water pump is the coolant leak it's coming from the weep hole under the alternator.
    It is probably the noise as well.
    Exhaust manifold is cracked between 3 and 4, but can't feel a leak by hand.
    Ps pump - 1 nipple is broken on bottom valve. Can't feel it sucking vacuum. Need replacing?
    Alternator bearings are probably collapsed - there is no clearance between the pulley and the housing.

    Getting a quote for timing parts and pumps back tomorrow.
    It will be expensive through Toyota. But..
    the gates kits I've found online will cost as much to ship here as the product costs.
    Either way I'm in for a bit. I'm putting my money on it =P
  3. trel162

    trel162 Well-Known Member Donated!


    Water pump leaking from weep hole- probably the bearing noise

    Alt pulley and coolant overflow leak

    Missing bracket and alt pulley touching housing

    I ran the Vac hose from intake to what I think is the fuel pressure reg

    What bolts to the exhaust manifold here? Is it a heat shield?

    Exhaust manifold crack no leak felt
  4. shaun4vert

    shaun4vert Well-Known Member Donated!

    Mmmm a fair bit for the parts from toyota.

    That is the fpr and yes mate their should be an heat shield on the side of the manifold as for the crack it's a common fault on the cast manifold i'm afraid.
    On my gen 4 vert i have replaced it with the gen 5 182 manifold and am now wondering if the gen 5 gt4 manifold will fit the gen 4 gt4
    if so am going to replace it with one.
  5. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    Yes, waterpump is a goner, that alt pulley looks very small. If its working 100% I'd keep it and fit a bigger pulley.
    I think you can change to a ST185 header but the oil/water pipes are different and the down pipe as well.
    Not too sure on the 165/185 differences though, I had a 185 header here and it looked like an improvement on the 165 header
  6. trel162

    trel162 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Thanks for the help guys. I'm trying to find a water pump and timing kit, work doesn't have a listing for the wp and the pulleys/belt/pumps might have to come from japan- 4 weeks if i can get them.

    What I've found on the net are kits listed for all gens- 165, 185, 205 but not sure what parts are interchangeable.

    What can I use from a different, easier to get, model?
    Eg 5sfe, later ge/gte

    As for the header i might get it welded until I can afford a different turbo/manifold etc.

    I want to keep the engine stock ish for now just running well.
    The car will benefit from suspension and brake upgrades much more as it is
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2014
  7. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    Gen 1 GE/GTE the tensioner is the same
    Cambelt is the same on gen1 & 2 GE/GTE
    Lower idler fits all S motors
    Waterpump is the same on 1S-5S motors, the housings are different so if you get one complete you need one from gen1-2 or any FE.
    Catchcans are cheap on eBay, I see Supacheap here had them on special for $40

    Cast Iron welding works well, save up for a real exhaust & turbo upgrade

    Change the seals when you do it, don't forget the oil pump seal & o-ring, waterpump rear o-ring
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2014
  8. trel162

    trel162 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Got some parts on the way

    Cheers for that. I've ordered
    gen 1 tensioner, crank seal, dizzy cap n rotor.
    gen 2 idler, belt, full water pump and o rings.
    Haven't found oil pump yet but will at least get the seals for it.
    need cam seals but looking at this head gasket kit on kbox
    and dizzy seal kit

    Yes I will get this manifold repaired and in the future upgrade turbo/manifolds/ecu and more. That's the plan anyway.

    Vac leaks- still not sure on ps pump
    Can I change just the valve under the pump or need to remove it to fix?

    Need spark plugs, leads, engine mounts, rear diff mount
    suspension-shocks and springs or coil overs
    Brakes- car is on 14" wheels so must not have big brakes? Did early gt4s come with same brakes as 162?
    want 205 upgrade when money allows

    most of these parts are from japan and I will not get them for a few weeks.
    I'm on the edge of my seat
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2014
  9. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    Early ST165 (86-87 JDM) has ST162 brakes, 87-89 JDM has twinpot ST185 (early) brakes.
    Diameter is the same on these but the widths are different.
    Late ST185 brakes are bigger but has single pot caliper (fitted on my car), needs 15' rims or bigger.

    Sent you an email of prices etc.

    Yes you can replace the valve on the p/s pump in car, might be a tight squeeze with the transfer there.
  10. trel162

    trel162 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Thanks Ill get a few things like catch can, turbo timer, boost and oil pressure gauges when I get this work done.

    I found this great write up for mk3 supra knock sensor wire repair.
    Im not happy with the job I did so will do it one more time and move on to other things.


    i put in a new stereo, I'm going to make a new shelf and have new 6*9s for it, and later will put in the amp and sub from the white car.

    Waiting for for parts now so lots of small jobs to do
  11. shaun4vert

    shaun4vert Well-Known Member Donated!

    This is what i said back on page 1 lol

    Quote from page 1
    Ho by the way i found the best shielded wire to use for the knock sensor was aeriel coax it's very well shielded and yes the earth only goes to the ecu
  12. trel162

    trel162 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Hahah you're right! First I used normal wire then thin shielded wire and now bought coax but it's single strand so need to get multiple strand and do it once more.
    Should have listened from the start!
  13. trel162

    trel162 Well-Known Member Donated!

    3sgte fixins

    Work In progress
    Got my parts

    St185 Water Pump + housing + thermostat + housing + bypass pipes
    St185 Oil Pump with housing
    Crank and cam oil seals
    idler pulley
    tensioner pulley +spring
    spark plugs - ngk to replace champion
    Timing belt
    dizzy rotor
    10w40 oil and Toyota red coolant

    Today took it apart, gotta get the crank pulley puller at work and get right in there.
  14. trel162

    trel162 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Finished the final knock sensor wire, with multi strand coaxial wire, I took A pin out of the white lightening loom and it's as good as it will get. The error is still there so hoping the rattle in the timing area is the cause.
  15. trel162

    trel162 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Hope these show up






  16. trel162

    trel162 Well-Known Member Donated!

    The crankshaft gear guide is the rattle!
    Can i pad the timing cover or something easy?
    I hope this doesn't mean bearings / crank moving around.
    What else could make the guide rattle most of the time?
    Sometimes I can move the engine with my hands and hear it, sometimes can't hear it at all.

    Whats the next move?
  17. trel162

    trel162 Well-Known Member Donated!

  18. spyder

    spyder Well-Known Member

    Not sure if you figured it out or not but if the sensor for the fans isn't plugged in then the fans stay on, possibly the white plug you showed us in the beginning of all this. As for the rest i got to say WOW, previous owners ran that thing into the ground, glad to see someone taking good care of it, thats pretty much the same crap ive been dealing with. Bought the car from someone who never did anything to maintain it so now im having to replace and or repair a bunch of stuff that got previously ignored.
  19. trel162

    trel162 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Fan sensor and radiator

    Thanks Spyder I've got a new sensor but haven't got as far as to test it yet.
    i took out the radiator yesterday, it looks like the top tank had been repaired before, so thinking about an eBay Alu rad. A mate just got one for his holden vt clubsport, so will see how it's going in a few weeks.
    Ive heard good and bad things, they cool well but don't last, fitment may not be perfect, easy corrosion.. But I guess it's worth trying myself.
    For $200 shipped can't really go wrong.
  20. trel162

    trel162 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Yeah the car has seen better days.
    It's stock ish, just repairs and needs more.
    So that's good, i can change it how I want to.

    The harmonic balancer was not fully seated.
    The pulley had 2 chips out of the back where someone's used a jaw puller.
    I think the previous owner couldn't get the pulley all the way off, gave up, and sold it.
    It explains why my alt pulley is closer to the engine than the crank was, and the washer rattle.

    I will finish the job I'm doing, hope it runs sweet with no knock error, then I can justify more money and parts..

    Tomorrow I will tackle the sump and oil pump and go from there.
    What's the best way to do the intake cam seal? Lift or drop the engine? No room with the master cylinder there.
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2014

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