1987 GT-FOUR 177000km - just got it, got 2 codes and fun times

1987 GT-FOUR 177000km - 2 codes and fun times

Hi just picked up a 1987 ST165 today, bout time but it needs some work.
It's running in limp mode and limiting boost, feels pretty sluggish.
Its throwing codes 5-2 (Knock Sensor) and 5-4 (Intercooler something or other)

1)
It has the stock intercooler, the level is full but there is no overflow reservior.
I don't think the pump has been wired to be always on as i've read about here
->=http://www.gt4dc.co.uk/website/development/maintain/maintenance.php#MaintCode54A
But it stays on a lot even when idling.
The fans stay on constantly with ign on.

Tomorrow i will get my multimeter to test the intercooler level sensor and the intercooler pump.

2)
For the knock sensor, if i replace it and it still throws a code, how does one stop an engine knocking?

3)
At idle, oil pressure drops quite low to maybe 1/4 of the gauge. My st162 drops to 1/2 at idle and i thought the 3sgte would have higher pressure?

What's the recommended oil for a gen 1 gte?

4)
I think the thermostat is stuck partly open as it takes ages to warm up. Need to swap it out and go from there.

Going to look at the bgb at work tomorrow and see what I can find.

Cheers
Andrew

 

my new gt-four









-Where does this yellow plug connect to? Next to the battery, connected to the IC pump wiring loom tube.

 

Cheers for the replies guys, helpful as always!

54 -
The level sensor tests fine - No continuity with float down, continuity with float up.
What pressure should the cap be? It's 1.1 Bar at the moment.
having no overflow could be a problem when the pump engages maybe the level is dropping too much.
I'll play around and bridge the wires to the level sensor.

As well as this, The intercooler pump is noisy and reads 4.9-5.2 Amps which is way above the bgb spec 1.5-2.1Amps
Does this mean the fkd bearings are taking more power to rotate than they should?
Will new bearings sort it out or would i need a replacement?



Fans always on-
The temp sender plug is on the radiator instead of the thermostat housing.
I'll go test the switch wiring now
I'm going to flush the system and get a new thermostat this week.

Oil pressure - will have to wait until these codes are fixed then that is the next job.
There is fluid leaking from this pipe that goes into the oil sump but the oil level hasn't dropped at all. I will tighten it tomorrow but is this the return from the turbo or oil cooler or what?


my first turbo


Got an airfilter and oil today, put in a list of parts at work to see what they can get me - plugs, leads, dizzy cap n rotor, fuel filter, oil filter, thermostat...
I won't be driving far or at all until i've sorted this out.

 

knock sensor

Thanks Willie, i'll ask the sparky at work if he's got spare shielded wire lying around.

How can i test the sensor or wire? i have the engine manual for the 205 but not the 165. Would it be the same test?

Tomorrow i'll see if i can get one through work but even if i can it will be very expensive.

Anyone got a spare?

I want to take the car into the workshop but don't have much time after work each day and don't want to sit in peak hour traffic and overheat!

So after the cooling and intercooling is sweet i will get it up on a hoist and see what else to put on my list.

 

cooling fans

Kevin it's JDM goodness. I had to get them to search 1989 all-trac to find an air filter at repco though, the fun begins.

Just earthed the thermo switch wires - the inside (eng side of radiator) fan turns off, the outer aircon fan stays on.

When i got the car, the relay for this fan had been removed so I put it back in.

Dark now so another try tomorrow

 

code 54 cleared

I bridged the level sender wires together and no more code 54! I'll look around for a new one, is it a common/generic sensor?
I also put an overflow reservior from my spare car into the bay to give it a full load of coolant.
I got a Prius 12v coolant pump at work so will put that in to see if it works without throwing a code, and if it does i won't need bearings for the pump.
If it doesn't work i can get the bearings for $10 or get a bosch pump online for about $100AU so let's hope it works out.

I've ordered a knock sensor 2nd hand from over east will get next week.
Getting a temp switch in tomorrow
Got oil filter, thermostat and coolant today.
Busy weekend ahead

 

Today i changed the oil and the knock sensor for a 2nd hand one.
Code 52 has come back so i will get wire for it tomorrow and run a new one. Should i solder it to the ecu or crimp a connector on it? Edit - I need to remove the old wire from the plug and put in the new one...
I tried testing the wire for continuity but I think I need to check for voltage instead?

 

Went to fit the new thermo switch and it's the wrong plug! Turns out the sensor is for a 185. This is the one in the bottom of the radiator.
Tomorrow at work will check them out together, if they have the same resistance maybe i could put a new plug on the loom for it..

 

fixed my codes

Put the timing light on the engine, it was at 15deg btdc, dizzy was fully advanced. I put it back to 10 and it ran terribly with the knock sensor error.
I ran a new knock sensor wire today, no more code!

I changed the bearings on the IC pump and it's working perfectly again. Satisfying to fix the old pump, the prius pump i wanted to try was fkd so worked out well in the end.

Tomorrow at work will pressure test the cooling system - there's a slow leak behind the motor - then fix that - then new thermostat, temp sensor and coolant goes in. Already sorted the plug out.

When it starts, it does not idle-up for warm up like my 162. What controls this? Cold start switch or injector? some vsv?

Needs new shocks and springs - Should I go coil overs or kyb agx up front and maybe mod the rears?
I ask because after low springs, new shocks and camber/caster adjustable top mounts on my 162, i couldve got adjustable coil overs for cheaper.

Took it for the first drive not in limp mode today, very fast and very fun. Looking forward to building the car up.

Merry xmas and happy new years all!

 

My ignition coil plug was barely hanging together, it's been repaired a few times it seems. So i cut it off and borrowed the plug from the white lightening and it's all good.
I've got to be careful - the old white car is meant for parts, the white lightening needs fixing, but i keep taking bits off it. oh the shame.

IC Pump has 2 * 608Z bearings to replace, i got them from a local bearing manufacturer for dirt cheap
One of the magnets had come off from the housing so i cleaned it up with sandpaper and wire wheel and superglued it back, so far so good!
Reassembly was tricky til i ziptied the brushes to clear the bearing
At first it leaked - the main shaft o-ring was damaged so i replaced it with a new one.







Broke the plastic screw off this today, its screwed all the way in. What is it?

 

Ugh. Error back this morning. Just ran another wire and still no good so will try a thicker shielded one tomorrow and hope 3rd times a charm.
It ran sweet for a while yesterday when hot so I really don't think it's the ecu but will try find another.
As I left work the light came on, 5kms later when up to temp I turned it off and on again and it took 1.5 mins to come on.
Same again and it took 5 mins to come on.
Maybe it IS knocking when cold and not so bad hot.

Vaccum hose #5 between the brake booster and intake is not connected at the top end.
Where does it go? Maybe it's running lean and pinging

 

no knock error when fully hot

Checked cam timing, it's spot on. Dizzy timing is 10BTDC with T and E1 bridged in the diag box.

Ran a new shielded wire, it's shield is grounded on to wire E1 coming off the ECU and not connected to anything at the plug end. Is this the right way to do it?
Knock error still happens when cold and warming up. When it was fully warmed up i turned it off and on again, no error and made it a few kms to home with full power and no errors.

Idled in the driveway for a few mins, temp gauge dropped a tiny bit, then took it around the block, the code came up at 1.5 k rpm taking off slowly.

Turned it off and on again and drove a bit quick and no error for a couple kms, made it home and idled and still no error. I will try it again later today when its cold.

So, temp related...efi sensor? i know the fan switch isn't working. Thermostat? Don't want to remove it til i fix the slow coolant leak but it's a suspect for slow warm up and maybe the rattle.


Heres the noise i'm hearing 1.5-2k rpm i think its setting the sensor off...but not when hot.

 

Ahh would that screw stop the AC engaging? Or effect idle with AC off?

I guess i'll need to do the timing belt, water pump and oil pump and pulleys, if i'm going to take them off to check the bearings.
Might as well just didn't budget for it!

Here is the vacuum hose. It comes up from below the intake manifold and sits there in front of the clutch m/c
The inlet manifold has a hose looping around on itself on the end there. Where should this go to and which nipple is for my loose hose?



IC pump is not throwing a code anymore but yes i will be taking it apart again to clean it properly. Verified it works though!

So that isn't acutally oil coming down the sump, its engine coolant. It might be what i've heard of as the Hose from Hell?
Trying to borrow works pressure tester but it's in hot demand

I will be removing the turbo soon to check the front and rear housing seals and maybe get it inspected.
I think the oil in the turbo intake is from the PCV recirculating.
Not burning/losing oil as far as i can tell so i think its alright.