1987 GT-FOUR 177000km - just got it, got 2 codes and fun times

It's running super rich during warm up then goes good after it's warm.
Again, no code when warmed up but when temp drops (idle) code comes back at low revs.

Okay vacuum leaks- that hose goes to the fuel vsv behind the intake then back to the fuel rail.
It's either been bypassed already or just disconnected at that end.
To remove it fully, do I block the nipple on the fuel rail?
What advantage is there to having it or not?

- both vac hoses under the ps pump are disconnected. One has a bolt in it the other pops off.
- need to check tvis vac lines

Wheres a good place to find a catch can online?

I changed the oil when I got it and didn't take a close look.

Ac idle up- I want to use ac so will try find another. My st162s don't seem to have this part?

Next steps are -
cooling pressure test - replace coolant, hoses, thermostat, fan switch, maybe csi and efi sensors
- plugs leads cap rotor
- fuel filter
- alternator looks damaged-pulley is too close to the housing maybe fkd.
- timing belt, tensioner idler seals water pump oil pump
- remove sump and check bearings.

I hope it doesn't come to this-no time or money just yet

 

Further inspection

Water pump is the coolant leak it's coming from the weep hole under the alternator.
It is probably the noise as well.
Exhaust manifold is cracked between 3 and 4, but can't feel a leak by hand.
Ps pump - 1 nipple is broken on bottom valve. Can't feel it sucking vacuum. Need replacing?
Alternator bearings are probably collapsed - there is no clearance between the pulley and the housing.

Getting a quote for timing parts and pumps back tomorrow.
It will be expensive through Toyota. But..
the gates kits I've found online will cost as much to ship here as the product costs.
Either way I'm in for a bit. I'm putting my money on it =P

 

Pics

Water pump leaking from weep hole- probably the bearing noise



Alt pulley and coolant overflow leak



Missing bracket and alt pulley touching housing



I ran the Vac hose from intake to what I think is the fuel pressure reg



What bolts to the exhaust manifold here? Is it a heat shield?



Exhaust manifold crack no leak felt

 

Thanks for the help guys. I'm trying to find a water pump and timing kit, work doesn't have a listing for the wp and the pulleys/belt/pumps might have to come from japan- 4 weeks if i can get them.

What I've found on the net are kits listed for all gens- 165, 185, 205 but not sure what parts are interchangeable.

What can I use from a different, easier to get, model?
Eg 5sfe, later ge/gte

As for the header i might get it welded until I can afford a different turbo/manifold etc.

I want to keep the engine stock ish for now just running well.
The car will benefit from suspension and brake upgrades much more as it is

 

Got some parts on the way

Cheers for that. I've ordered
gen 1 tensioner, crank seal, dizzy cap n rotor.
gen 2 idler, belt, full water pump and o rings.
Haven't found oil pump yet but will at least get the seals for it.
need cam seals but looking at this head gasket kit on kbox
http://www.kbox.ca/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=588
and dizzy seal kit
http://www.kbox.ca/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=480&&osCsid=889a921f1b148b9f9b25e4ee860844c8

Yes I will get this manifold repaired and in the future upgrade turbo/manifolds/ecu and more. That's the plan anyway.

Vac leaks- still not sure on ps pump
Can I change just the valve under the pump or need to remove it to fix?

Need spark plugs, leads, engine mounts, rear diff mount
suspension-shocks and springs or coil overs
Brakes- car is on 14" wheels so must not have big brakes? Did early gt4s come with same brakes as 162?
want 205 upgrade when money allows

most of these parts are from japan and I will not get them for a few weeks.
I'm on the edge of my seat

 

Thanks Ill get a few things like catch can, turbo timer, boost and oil pressure gauges when I get this work done.

I found this great write up for mk3 supra knock sensor wire repair.
Im not happy with the job I did so will do it one more time and move on to other things.

http://www.turboninjas.com/supra/knocksensor_rewire.pdf

i put in a new stereo, I'm going to make a new shelf and have new 6*9s for it, and later will put in the amp and sub from the white car.

Waiting for for parts now so lots of small jobs to do

 

Hahah you're right! First I used normal wire then thin shielded wire and now bought coax but it's single strand so need to get multiple strand and do it once more.
Should have listened from the start!

 

3sgte fixins

Work In progress
Got my parts

St185 Water Pump + housing + thermostat + housing + bypass pipes
St185 Oil Pump with housing
Crank and cam oil seals
idler pulley
tensioner pulley +spring
spark plugs - ngk to replace champion
Timing belt
dizzy rotor
10w40 oil and Toyota red coolant

Today took it apart, gotta get the crank pulley puller at work and get right in there.

 

Finished the final knock sensor wire, with multi strand coaxial wire, I took A pin out of the white lightening loom and it's as good as it will get. The error is still there so hoping the rattle in the timing area is the cause.

 

Hope these show up

 

The crankshaft gear guide is the rattle!
Can i pad the timing cover or something easy?
I hope this doesn't mean bearings / crank moving around.
What else could make the guide rattle most of the time?
Sometimes I can move the engine with my hands and hear it, sometimes can't hear it at all.

Whats the next move?

 

Fan sensor and radiator

Thanks Spyder I've got a new sensor but haven't got as far as to test it yet.
i took out the radiator yesterday, it looks like the top tank had been repaired before, so thinking about an eBay Alu rad. A mate just got one for his holden vt clubsport, so will see how it's going in a few weeks.
Ive heard good and bad things, they cool well but don't last, fitment may not be perfect, easy corrosion.. But I guess it's worth trying myself.
For $200 shipped can't really go wrong.

 

Yeah the car has seen better days.
It's stock ish, just repairs and needs more.
So that's good, i can change it how I want to.

The harmonic balancer was not fully seated.
The pulley had 2 chips out of the back where someone's used a jaw puller.
I think the previous owner couldn't get the pulley all the way off, gave up, and sold it.
It explains why my alt pulley is closer to the engine than the crank was, and the washer rattle.

I will finish the job I'm doing, hope it runs sweet with no knock error, then I can justify more money and parts..

Tomorrow I will tackle the sump and oil pump and go from there.
What's the best way to do the intake cam seal? Lift or drop the engine? No room with the master cylinder there.