JDM TEMS, Corona 162 - 2 & 4 door and many more jdm oddities

Yes, I would if I had a steel frame. You can buy a new floorstanding 6ton here for around $100 but I have nowhere to put it atm.
With a pile of boxes waiting I guess I'll have to make one up
ps. Your parcel is still lying here - $45

There are a few companies specializing in NZ-OZ-USA-UK car shipping, I found them looking for freight to get stuff over there, by the way they are dumping cars and motors here it can't be too much
www.chucksnz.co.nz
www.jennercargo.co.nz
www.famous.co.nz
www.cfrline.co.nz
www.kiwishipping.co.nz
www.mainfreightusa.com

 

ST205 A/C R13 Aircon pump upgrade

No worry, it's safe here

I fitted a ST205 A/C pump sothat I can run R13 safely, the old pump was getting noisy so it was inevitable.
The 205 has a bigger pulley so should have less drain on the motor, what is confusing is that it has 4 pins on the plug where the old one only has 3.


Anobody tell me what the extra wire is for?

There is an extra valve on the exhaust side the older pumps don't have, also I had to chop up some pipes before I was able to make up new pipes to fit the ST162 A/C.


All I need now is to get the pipes crimped somewhere and gas in the system, looks much neater though.
The lower pipe is further away from the exhaust and the upper hose is further away from the alternator which was always a pain to get at

 

ST205 power steering pipe mod

Boy, I've got a ton of stuff to show you guys....all in good time
Spot the mistake?


The Power Steering HP hose is no more, no it's not gone and I haven't deleted the power steering either, let me introduce you to my latest mod -

The stock pump and pipe vs the ST205 pump and pipe


ST205 pipe runs behind the motor and into the rack, time to put the idea into practice


Biggest problem was to mod the ST205 bracket to fit the rack mount, stock it fits onto the brake bias mount which on a 205 is more to the middle of the firewall



So now I have one of these spare

 

Yeah, I panicked when I 1st saw the injector rail but I see those short dumpy side feed injectors are used on Subaru, 4 Runner etc and there are plenty of those in the yards.
Another option is to give the stock Gen1 rail to Oompa and let him make new brackets for it with bigger head seals it could work with the stock injectors.
I think that's what the Wolfrace injector rail does? - see below


The biggest difference is the gen1 rail sits at about 30deg where this one sits at roughly 45deg, stock rubberised mounts won't work as they are way too short and the wrong angle.

Looks to me like Yamaha changed the angle to get the injectors firing direclty at the base of the valves, I don't get the injector switch as the Gen3 GE still uses the old style top feed injectors and they are a LOT bigger than I thought (370cc, I have a set for grabs as they're too big for my needs)

Here's the rail that came with the new motor - man this motor's a mess, but more on that later....

I like the injector wire holder. and yes the 440cc injectors are also up for grabs

Here I borrowed a pic from 1sfgs to show you the sharper angle and massive seals - this is the Wolfrace conversion


I'm thinking the shortest, cheapest route will be to keep the gen2 rail and steal some Subaru injectors?

 

The stock water bottle is huge and an eyesore imo


An AT160 at the yards gave me another idea, it has a much smaller bottle


Looks far better, more room, less weight


I like this mod


Good news is Rahul has got my old GT4 going, I think you will like the rims.
This was a shakedown at the track


A pic he took of TEMS in his driveway, shows her curves nicely I think

 

The GT4 has the same power steering pump, bottle etc - it's pretty cramped there as the gearbox transfer extends to underneath the pump


My power steering bottle is from a ST202/5, here you can see it plus the stock bottle holder bracket and the extra p/s cooler pipes I added (JDM has no p/s cooling at all)


The water bottle is for overflow and also to suck water back into the radiator when the cap is open under pressure,
actually it's job is mainly to let air out and suck water back in. (That should explain why we don't need to burp the system)
I've never had it using water before, even when the thermostat was jamming shut a few months back, the trick is to shut down when you think somethings wrong, or no reservoir can save you.
Also the metal tank on the o/s GT4's is the same size or smaller.
For the road it's fine but for racing I think the FIA mandates a catch tank of min 2l for water AND oil - That kinda makes all the aftermarket catch cans look a little silly as they're not legal under FIA rules


Lonewolf - Race cars are not allowed to vent water onto the track, that may be the reason some GT4's have a metal tank AND a plastic tank fitted
If you look carefully you'll see mine vents to inside the RHS front wheel, I did this as the water bottle was making a mess of the engine bay and and also rusting inside the RHS bumper member

 

Looks like I need to buy one of those bearing clamps

I looked at changing the alternator and p/s to MR2 stuff but that's a no-no as the p/s pumps are expensive, unreliable and a drain on the battery.
(I like the idea of having a pump I can switch off so will keep looking for alternatives)
The MR2 alternator bracket is a heavy cast iron affair worthy of ship anchor status

Note the size of the engine mount bracket

 

LED mods flickering? - the cure

IMO these cars are waay too heavy in the front and have gone to great lengths to eliminate weight already. (check out my alt bracket carefully, alley engine mounts, block shaved, exhaust & mounts etc)
I still have plans to fit a fibre bonnet and lighten the crossmembers, unfortunately adding bigger brakes and E152 box means putting weight back in for the sake of reliability.
Pop-up lights etc may be cool but there is a severe weight penalty

I got tired of LED's flickering, these things are nice when they work but more often than not they flicker or just don't work properly.
Here's how I modded the doors-
ps. Lonewolf - cut down the cases like this to fit the clear lenses
The stock holder and aftermarket LED ($15)


I bought some signage LED's for $3ea (these are bi-directional and have diffusers. I soldered then into the holders like this after drilling 3 small holes (2 to hold the LED's)


Problem solved and I now have much more light, dome light was done the same way


This is not as easy as it looks - you will need to sand the contacts 1st or the solder just won't stick

 

Well I've had all kinds of weird s&*t happen with LED's in my car
Firstly they tend to melt and blow up, I think there is some kind of regulator issue going on even though I've tried several alternators.
The DC voltage now reads around 15V but I've always had an AC component of 30-50VAC.
I think it needs some kind of a voltage stabiliser or smoothing cap?


The door and park LED's were fine for the 1st 2 years, then started flickering and not working intermittently no matter how much I bent the contacts etc
It's annoying to constantly have to bang lights to keep them working, lately the door LED's have been very dim/and or flashing like mini-indicators

 

I got sick of oil leaking, messy FIPG etc so I looked up the 2S cork gasket and got one cheap at Supacheap
Here's the p/n for those interested


What I do is apply contact adhesive to one side and smear oil on the other side, that way the gasket stays stuck to the block or pan and comes off easy with no mess to clean.
Trick is not to overtighten the bolts, a small T-handle & #10 is enough to get a good seal and the gasket will be re-usable.
With the right spanners you don't need to remove the crossmembers either

The bad news is the leak is back so I suspect the oil pump seal or O-ring has blown

 

Yes, stock is FIPG but I just don't like the stuff
I think the trick with cork gaskets is to install them loose and re-torque them a week later and never over-tighten them

TEMS is in ICU and I went and broke my ankle today
She suddenly pumped out a heap of oil in the garage and I knew straight away the oil pump gasket (O-ring) had blown,
I checked my spares box and the spares all have tears in the same place so time for some new parts.

My battery has died (again) so in desperation I have gone back to the 1kw stock starter, checking my spares it seems they made 1kw, 1.2kw & 1.5kw starters.
While I was at it I also installed the starter relay mod - insurance?, and replaced the throttle cable as mine was stretched to the limit of adjustment

She starts 1st time - even with a dead battery showing 12.15V max, so the smaller starter + relay mod are working way better than I expected

 

For a few months now I've had a mystery oil leak, it came and went intermittently and I was sick of people complaining about my car making a mess.
I checked the timing side, dipstick, changed filters, checked rocker covers, distributor and could not find the leak, but there was oil around the sump so I replaced the sump gasket recently only to have the leak return - YAY, not.

So I then stripped the timing side and saw some oil around the oil pump housing, I ordered a new gasket (o-ring) and once I got the pump off I saw the ring had burst in the top corner, there was also signs of oil under the pulley so I changed the oil pump seal as well (when in doubt - change!)

The problem is now gone, it seems the o-ring is a known problem in these motors and something else to bear in mind when changing seals under the timing cover.
It leaks through the o-ring at the top of the pump (under the idler bearing) and trickles down the top of the pump to the sump where it spreads around the sump gasket, don't re-use oil pump gaskets!