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Cold Air Intakes

Discussion in 'Aftermarket Modifications' started by alex_lula, Dec 11, 2012.

  1. alex_lula

    alex_lula Guest

    Does anyone know where i could buy a cold air intake for a 88 GT :confused:
     
  2. LionTR

    LionTR Well-Known Member Donated!

    If your engine is stock, there is no point of a "cold air intake". The stock system pulls air from behind the left headlamp, that's the highest you can go without cutting a hole in your bonnet.
     
  3. 4thgenceli

    4thgenceli Test Dummy

    Speaks the trooof. With just the intake, you won't get much performance gain anyway. You'd need to do intake, header and exhaust upgrades to achieve anything. After doing all that (300-500 bucks later) the additional power unleashed really isn't very efficient (5-10hp more usually).

    If performance upgrades is what you want, your cheapest option would be dropping in a motor from a GTS.The 3sge has more power and <LOVES> to rev like crazy. Intake/header/exhaust upgrade on a GTS has a more significant impact on performance than the 3sfe. Plus it's a straight forward swap. Replace motor, ECU and harness. No custom wiring or work necessary.

    Or if you're batshit crazy, go with a redtop/blacktop swap (JDM 3sge motors). They're still N/A, but have more performance parts available (plus they rev to the moon). If you're clinically insane (such as myself) drop in a 3sgte.
     
  4. 187flatliner

    187flatliner Seat Breaker Donated!

    besides the ebay intake sucks ass, and if the douches at car toys wouldnt have put my alarm siren where my airbox was i would replace it back to stock.....speaking of that, car toys here i come to bitch and complain and get it moved to where i TOLD you tpo put it
     
  5. spiedr0722

    spiedr0722 Well-Known Member Donated!

    K&N Panel Filter+Stock Airbox= :thumbsup:
     
  6. racerb

    racerb Well-Known Member

    As I am not building my car for street use, I will be using a cold air set up, but with a difference. My air filter (K&N cone) will be located behind the original headlight cover ahead of the radiator core support. The best location given the fact that there are no more headlights or their flip-up control motors to deal with!
    A few more Celica mods 004.jpg A few more Celica mods 006.jpg
    First picture is of the left front headlight cover with multiple holes drilled for air flow, while the second is just to show how much room is availible without on the headlight pieces in place!

    racerb :science2
     
  7. Cold Air Intake

    I had to replace my front left hand guard/fender/whatever, (ha ha I was going to say passenger side). While I was waiting for the new s/h guard to dry between coats, I painted it off the car, I had a look at the induction system on my car (Aussie SX 3sge ST162 1988). First thing I noticed was how big the Induction Anti-resonance Chamber was, hidden by the guard. Hmmmm 100 mm (4 inch) round hole in the front of it through the little front bulk head? Hmmmm make 32 X 50mm (1.5 X 2 inch) hole into 75mm (3 inch) round holethrough inner guard? Hmmmmm make 32 X 50mm (1.5 X 2 inch) hole into 75mm (3 inch) round hole in standard airbox? all done using plastic plumbing roof gutter droppers, and a bit of flexible air duct tube. Then I picked up a 50 X 200mm (2 X 8 inch) to 100mm (4 inch) waste pipe adapter, and trimmed that down to fit between the lower bumper skirt and bulkhead with a 90 degree bend, fits almost perfectly behind the far left two openings, and used a piece of flexible plastic down-spouting to link this to the opening in the front of the anti-resonator.

    I also, after also owning (real) SUV's, at every bend, cut a 25mm (1 inch) hole to let water out, I also did this in the bottom of the Anti-resonator, and very bottom corner of the airbox. This is so that if any water is picked up by the low slung air scoop, it will be ejected by air pressure, also the one in the airbox will add cold air ventilation to that region of engine bay. the little holes will also stop air stagnation throughout the piping. If any water manages to negotiate the 600mm (24 inch) climb against gravity it will drain out.

    having the air intake as low as possible means, well for Australia, getting the coolest/densest air possible. I have taken steps with 3 changes of direction to stop any possible splashing.

    Of course, this would be no good in snow conditions as any drift snow would be shoveled up for sure!
     
  8. LionTR

    LionTR Well-Known Member Donated!

    Are you sure? Hot asphalt warmes the air above it as well.
     
  9. Yeah, it does, but if you measure the ambient air temperature around 200mm above the hot asphalt (yes asphalt does get hot enough here to fry your breakfast on) and measure the temperature again at 600mm, you will find that the difference is minimal.The same way in that you can hold your hand over a fry pan without much trouble, air is a reasonable insulator. Plus the engine bay, and most cone CIA's get this air AFTER it has passed through the air conditioner condenser, cooling system radiator and intercooler, if fitted. Most cars nowadays are designed to get most, if not all, of their cooling air from this height. I'm with you there, after owning several real SUV's and driven them in Australia's Outback, that the optimum place for a cold air pickup is as high as possible. But I thought that a Safari brand Snorkel meant for a 2 tonne(plus) Behemoth Four By Four might look bit out of place on a little lithe sports car. Saying that, another ideal place to plumb the air intake would be to the cabin's air plenum chamber at the top of the firewall bulkhead, but I thought the induction noise maybe a bit loud. By the way, I classify a real SUV as having at least a separate transfer case and live axles.
     
  10. If you were ever to see the left hand frame, hidden by the fender/guard/whatever, you will notice a hole between the strut tower and the firewall bulkhead, insert a holesaw through this hole and whizz out a hole on the inner surface, and do the same with your guard, plumb it all up, and, there you go, a CIA almost as high as the rear of the bonnet/hood, ideal for snowy countries I reckon. What do you think.

    By the way, there's a nice little vid by Mighty Car Mods on youtube, showing the performance differences between a K&N Cone, a K&N panel filter, and a new,clean stock panel filter on a high performance vehicle on a dyno. Worth watching. might open your eyes a bit too
     
  11. Have since had my cold air intake working and noticed that fuel economy has improved significantly, easily by 10% or more. I've gone from using 40 litres (Liters in USA) to cover 400 Kilometres, or 10.4 USG over 250Miles, to using 35 litres over 420 km, or 9 USG to 260 Miles or so. Plus the engine is way more tractable at low engine speeds, easily accelerating in 5th gear from 2000revs. Over this last weekend Went for a run with Brisbane Celica Club, and through the hilly windy sections I had to back off from catching up with a 7th gen 2zzge powered, while normally I had trouble keeping up!
     
  12. eNtraxGT88

    eNtraxGT88 Well-Known Member Donated!

    interesting. with a cone intake i had 10L/100km (same as your 40L/400km) and when i changed it back to stock airbox + k&n panel filter i had 40L/450km (8.9L/100km). i think what liontr is saying is that the stock design is already sufficient considering it already pulls air from directly behind the left side headlight (true for 3s-ge's only) compared to your custom work. the only difference should be shoving a cone in the engine bay vs some sort of plumbing (ie stock box/through fender)
     
  13. I'm still running the stock airbox and a generic paper air filter (Australian Ryco brand). All I've done is opened up the 50mm square hole in the airbox inlet to 80mm round and, eventually, leading to a 50mm by 200mm scoop situated right behind the two left most slots in the bumper valance. The air is being forced into the airbox, and I think, sometimes, my AFM is 'seeing' positive pressure. If only the Aussie ST162 3SGE's had the MAP/Oxygen Sensor ECU instead of the AFM type!

    The standard air inlet behind the headlight is WAY too small and doesn't get any positive pressure, and needs the extra 'bellows' in the guard to 'give' more air at WOT.
     
  14. Hazzmac92

    Hazzmac92 Well-Known Member

    I ran piping from an opening in my front bar to where the stock piping goes into the air box

    Removed the stock air box replaced with foam pod filter
    Made a top cover to keep the boys in blue happy as the can't see it and works better than oem box, a lot sharper throttle response and pick up at lower revs
     

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