im goin to have to change the clutch in my 162, do i have to remove the whole motor to unbolt the transsexual or can i tilt it sideways? or get it on a hoist and jack it down? which is the easiest for this motor and are there any tricks for this model car ?? i am not used to working on front wheel drive cars !!! thank you guys
hum, i think zack on here did this, and had to pull the motor after tryign to keep it in the car during the swap.
If the car is up on stands its pretty simple to tilt it off and out the bottom. Just be sure the motor is well supported and be warned that getting the tranny back on will be the hard part. Shouldn't have to pull the motor unless there are some major issues in removing the lower cross members.
brogan and i just swapped the gear box in my car last week. we unbolted all the engine mounts on the g/box after supporting the engine from above. put the car up on a hoist and lifted it high enough to get a gear box stand under there and then unbolted the tranny from everything else and dropped it out... but putting it back in with the engine in there was a different story all together! was really hard to get the drivers axle and the drive shaft to line up properly with the gear box!!! im just warning you that the hardest part is trying to line it back up. you'll need you and a mate struggling for a while till you get it far enough in to get a few bolts in. if you have any questions just ask. i can be more specific. there are a fair few ppl on here that have pulled gear boxes so im sure you'll find the right answer ! good luck also lol
thank you all for your helpful replies i have a workshop that i can do it at and heaps of tools that i can use. this is my current understanding on how to do it: so i get it up on the hoist, support the gearbox on a special jack, then undo the 1 engine mount and the bolts holding in the gear box, jack the gearbox down, take old clutch parts out, line up the new clutch assembly on the flywheel and jack the gear box back up into place? am i missing anything at all and is there things i should be checking or be careful of while i am takin it apart?
i would recomend to just take the engine out, and if its to much work with the wiring (trust me i can get really fucked) just unbolt the intake, and drop the entire enging out, this way it will be easire to bolt the tranny back on, and u can fix any oil leaks, broken parts, etc on the engine while its out, and ontop of all, just alot more access. ps, if u do take the engine out, change the timing belt while its out unless it was just replaced!!
oh ok .... damn front wheel drives.. i cant beleive you need to take the motor out just to change the timing belt, that sucks ass!
i dont think u did, but when you said that, did you mean drop the engine out thru the bottom? can u even do that? timing belt was replaced bout 70,000 k's ago thanks for the comments so far its helping me a lot sorry for the noob questions
you dont need to drop the engine at all. just need to take 3 of the 4 motor mounts off, the under-body cross-members and various other things. PM brogan about it, he will tell you everything you need to know in list form and make you life a whole lot easier when doing this job
here's his profile page thing-o... his user names xr-pilot http://www.st162.com/forums/profile.php ... file&u=242 then just click on the PM button... he might be a bit busy but just be patient
Alex I may as well post it up here incase this question comes up again First of all, this is a BIG job. As Alex said, I swapped an S54 gearbox into his car the other weekend and it took us (well mostly me, Alex hid in the corner still suffering from food poisoning the night before ) something like 16 hours from start to finish, even with the use of a hoist and gearbox jack. Its a PITA of a job. To start off: Disconnect battery, remove AFM pipe with 10mm spanner, remove AFM brackets with 12mm socket. Undo speedo drive on gearbox by hand (under wiring loom, its hard to see) disconnect reverse light plug from gearbox. You can start removing bits from the top now, start by undoing the starter motor. With the genie extractors on you won't have clearance to get it out, so take the top half of the extractors off. To get to the far left hand bolt you'll need to remove the alternator bracket, and in doing so the alternator and idler bracket. Pull the retaining clips off the gearbox for the shifter cables and clutch line, remove the circlips holding the cables on, don't drop the washers. Undo the clutch slave, move it out of the way. Jack the car up or put it on a hoist, remove the east-west suspension crossmember (19mm bolts or 17mm can't remember, 2 bolts 1 nut on each side), take passenger side wheel off, remove the circuil from passenger side drive shaft and undo the 32mm nut with a big f**k off breaker bar. Remove circlip on tie rod and undo the nut. Get a hammer and hit the side of the hub to knock the balljoint free, DO NOT HIT THE BALLJOINT OR ITS THREAD or you will stuff them. If you can't get it free, apply pressure in opposite direction from where your hitting with another big hammer to concentrate the force into the hub more. Once this is free, you can remove the 2 14mm (I think) lower strut bolts. The hub should fall away from the car, you can now push the driveshaft out of the hub. You can usually give this shaft a yank and pull it out of the box, or pry the CV joint out of the box. Its retained with a circlip inside the box. You may want to drain the box at this point, 19mm drain bolt. Now go and remove all the bolts holding the gearbox on bar the top most 2. Get a chunk of wood that fits between the 2 strut towers neatly (so the weight will be over the top of the strut towers) and tie the engine up to this. Place jack under box to remove weight from engine mounts, remove the engine mount bolts on the north-south crossmember and the passenger side engine mount. Remove north-south crossmember (2 bolts each end and take note how the spacers are positioned). Remove final 2 bolts in gearbox, lower jack slightly and shake gearbox free from engine. If I have remembered this procedure correctly, the box should come free. Just check there are no extra brackets to undo or any earth straps attached to the box. Lower box away from car. You can now remove the clutch and flywheel and get it machined and fit a new clutch. Assembly procedure is the reverse, remember to fill the gearbox up with some fresh Dexron 3 (yes, it is ATF fluid but Toyota recomends Dexron 2, its NLA so substitute Dexron 3). Have fun!
hahaha "have fun"... i like that also, i later found out it was intestinal infection, whatever the hell that is! haha worst pain i'v ever had in my guts!
That is a big help XR Pilot. thanks. i have made a short version that is a bit easier for me to understand, if i have gotten anything wrong tell me and also, when you tied the motor to the bit of wood sitting on the struts what did you tie it to? Remove: 1.battery 2.AFM 3.speedo drive on gearbox 4.reverse light plug from gearbox. 5.starter motor 6.alternator 7.extractors 8.clips for shifter cable and clutch line 9.clutch slave cylider Jack the car up, or put it on a hoist. Remove: 1.east-west suspension crossmember 2. passenger side wheel and hub 3.pull the shaft out of the cv joint 4.Top 2 bolts on gear box Tie the motor to a peice of wood at the top. Jack the gear box up a bit. Remove: 1.engine mount on the north-south crossmember 2.passenger side engine mount. 3.north-south crossmember 4.Remove bottom 2 bolts in gearbox 5.lower jack slightly and shake gearbox free from engine. 6.Lower box away from car. get your fly wheel machined assemble the new clutch repeat steps in reverse
the suspension strut towers are sticking out a little bit further than the chassis next to it, so we sat the length of wood as far back as possible on the strut towers, then used a heavy duty strap (tie down strap for packing trailers, etc) and went around the 3 engine hooks as well as the strut bar... anything else brogan? heres a pic: you have to try and do it so that the wood doesnt roll forward off the strut towers cause that could be really bad...
