4th Gen Heater QUICK FIX and PERMANENT FIX

Thanks, glad to hear that I helped you out. For your other question this may be your problem, from page 3:

 

I did this fix this morning. I took the dash apart, pulled the environmental control, and re-soldered the connections The motor now functions that controls the hot/cold as well as the motor that moves the flaps up and down. Thanks again!

 

Great to hear the positive feedback and results; you're welcome :mrgreen

 

i am now another 4th gen in this matter as well...did the temp fix this evening....will pull the board and solder in a few weeks or so....have alot of upcoming maintenance to deal with as well.

 

Good info, so I cross-referenced it from the alternate heater fix thread:
http://www.st162.net/forum/showthread.php?2918-Heater-Control-Panel-Another-FIX

 

hey rick i've got something different for you. i've done the soldering fix (every single solder has been redone) and everything mechanical is perfect, but the slider doesn't do anything in my 87. i've tried two hvac controls and it hasn't worked normally. however, i've spliced a DPDT switch to the motor itself for the last year and it's has worked to move the motor to hot/cold. is there a fuse or a box missing in my system somewhere that is required to be there for the box to move? i want to get the auto climate control back as it's very good from my 88 in keeping the fog off the windshield while maintaining decent warmth for the rest of the car.

 

Hey, did I read that right - you want to put an 88 HVAC in your 87? I'm sure you know they are not interchangeable. I'm not aware of fuse or box for the HVAC controls. This latest post from Dave doesn't help?

 

i was just referring that i liked the auto-climate that my 88 had when i had it, now i'm trying to get my 87's hvac to work 100% so i can get that feature back.

i've done every solder on the back on two​ hvacs to no avail

 

so I did both the quick fix to get some heat going and everything went ok... last weekend, I had the chance to do the permanent fix... all went well except for two things...

1. the A/C button does not light even after i re-soldered it 3x so I don't know if my compressor is stucked on the "ON" position because everytime I trun the fan, the compressor seems to kick-in even if I am using the heater...

2. the control valve in the firewall does not move outward when i switch my temperature control to cold setting... it does however move inwards when I slide the temp control to hot so I know the motor is turning... what I can tell you is that when I did the quick fix, I accidentally made a kink on the cable but I tried my best to straighten it back...

any input is appreciated. Thanks!

 

in the cabin the warm air flap, when i flip the switch to cold it switches, when i turn it to hot it only moves half way and i have to move it by hand. is there a fix for this?

 

Steve - try this, I suspect your gear is worn
http://www.st162.net/forum/showthre...nd-PERMANENT-FIX&p=48434&viewfull=1#post48434

On ALL the cars the dash vent seals were history when I started on these 10yrs ago. This is how I resolved the problem -
http://www.st162.net/forum/showthre...ore-jdm-oddities&p=37348&viewfull=1#post37348

Burakol -
1) Remove the LED and test it off the board
2) a)Remove the cable from the valve and test the valve for friction, there should be none.
Replace valve with one that's not sticky.
b)With the cable removed, the motor should be able to move the cable when you move from hot to cold on the console, if not replace the motor/cable

 

Stig, thanks for the suggestions. where can i find a replacement cable? It shouldn't be the motor since it moves from cold to hot with no issues.

 

Remember, this is the quick fix, meaning that you have not done the soldering (permanent fix) yet. As such, there will be intermittent electrical contact in the circuit board, so yes, as contact is made, the arm may move according to your heater and vent settings.

 

I will put a temporary clip or wrap a twist-tie to keep the arm from moving out of place.

 

I've done the quick fix. However, when I swap to the HI setting, it stops blowing heat.

 

I actually just got a new resistor and threw it in. The lowest and highest settings work once again, except the highest setting runs exactly the same as the lowest setting, so it blows at a low speed. They were non-functioning before replacing that resistor.