Hello! I have a 1989 Celica GT-S liftback that desperately needs the catalytic converter replaced. Essentially I'm looking for a reasonably priced cat online that is a simple bolt on and requires no welding. Only question is, I want to make sure I'm ordering one that fits properly as I have seen them range in price online from $40 to close to $500. As I am a college student and there are definitely more things that need to be fixed, I was hoping for some good suggestions on a good priced cat online. My second question is that I've seen two very different looking converters that say they both fit the '89 GT-S. Just for the sake of an example, what is the difference between cats like this: http://www.carparts.com/details/Toy...rneast703161&gclid=CPj36cac6bUCFe9aMgodrQYACA and this: http://www.carid.com/1989-toyota-ce...&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CJvm_9mc6bUCFYpDMgod5lAAnQ Thank you and all suggestions are welcome!
based on those two pictures, neither will work. the first link is closest to what you'll need, however it's missing flanges. the second link is more of the 3S-FE/5S-FE type converter where it is directly in front of the engine right after the exhaust manifold. the parts numbers as follows: eastern catalytic# 40075 $112.31 bosal #99852 $113.44 on rockauto.com. i also have a discount code if you want, pm me
Thank you! After researching more, it seemed a lot of the universal ones were missing flanges. I was leaning toward the Bosal, seeing as it's direct fit but it's great to know it's the correct part. Do I need to be ordering gaskets as well? Also any suggestions on tools needed is helpful, this is obviously my first time replacing the cat, but it seems very straightforward. I did order a oxygen sensor socket in case it's needed but I'm still waiting for jack stands to come in the mail so I haven't had a chance to look under the car yet. Thanks again!
I replaced the cat in my 89GTS a few years ago and yes, you'll need fresh gaskets and possibly new nuts and bolts too. Car ramps are useful and I always feel safer than jackstands, lol. Entrax is right, make sure you get it with flanges for a direct and easy bolt-in fit. I'd go with Bosal for sure. Check out FCP imports, they also have it with free shipping but it's a bit higher at $130. Price it out, shipping wise.
beware crazy rusted bolts. chances are it'll be rusted on there pretty good. what i suggest is wd-40 the shit out of the bolts/nuts, turn on the car, idle until fans kick in, then break the bolts loose (DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING WITH BARE HANDS OR COMPLETELY TAKE OUT ANY BOLTS/NUTS); then let it cool down before continuing any work. an electric impact should help, but i've found better success with exhaust/rusted bolts with a big-ass breaker bar + irwin boltgrips
As always, this is good stuff but rarely do I hear about SAFETY............ Being an 'ex' occ health & safety rep at ford has certainly resulted in less injuries over the years. Leather 'riggers' gloves are cheap as chips and as said, WD40 with some heat and if those suckers still won't move, get serious with the grinder. Hey Rick, speaking of eons, rarely do I see you 'gassing' on in such a short space of time........ did you actually 'break a leg' and now confined to your house :mrgreen Peace
^ Hey Spiderman, you are correct, I've been absent from these forums for a while mostly due to work and life. My life has gotten so crazy busy in the last year, I barely had any time for car repairs, let alone surfing this (and other) car sites. I didn't break a leg, but did manage to finally get some down time, hence my resurfacing It feels good to be back on here.
Thanks for all the tips guys! No matter how much PB Blaster I soaked on those bolts nothing happened. Warmed up the car and it worked like a charm. Props to eNtraxGT88.
