JDM TEMS, Corona 162 - 2 & 4 door and many more jdm oddities

Discussion in 'Your 4th Gen beauty' started by Stig, Apr 4, 2009.

  1. just_ace

    just_ace Well-Known Member

    Your cranking for 30sec to get oil pressure?

    Altho the brands has shorter runners like gen1, they are also designed for making nice high rpm power and have vvti to help bottom end. Also had ram pipes in the plenum.

    Ill see if I can find this thread I read ages ago, seem to remember Something about the shorter rod stroke ratio being more torquey in the 4age compared to the b16. Also having longer rods more imp for chasing high rpm.
     
  2. just_ace

    just_ace Well-Known Member

    Beams has similar knock sensor in the same position as all 3s motors.

    Ecu is obv much more advanced and can no doubt take many more presice/quicker alterations to control detonation.

    Another reason to ditch gen1 ecu if you can.

    You should get that uber cool trd one on ebay. Then its plug and play, and gives you bragging rights.
     
  3. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    Yeah, motor struggles to get enough revs to make pressure. I'm using a GTE pump but the clearances are twice what they should be thanks to the a-holes who polished the crank.
    It also means that the filter and galleries are dry if the motor stands for more than a few hours

    They also took nearly 1mm too much from the block, kinda hard to spot till the pistons are in.

    Yes, saw the TRD ECU - but for being made redundant and the offer price now at $800 with no closing date?
    Was offered a Red Top complete for $700 a few weeks back - why do these things happen every time the money dries up?

    Wishfull thinking on the cams, they are $80ea and believe it or not most gen3 GE's are auto's with crappy cams
     
  4. just_ace

    just_ace Well-Known Member

    if the machinist screwed up with getting clearances correct etc i would've taken it back. having to crank for 30sec to get oil pressure before starting isn't going to do your starter any favors.

    maybe remove the spark plugs while your trying to get oil pressure before starting.
     
  5. Seank90

    Seank90 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Its his DD
     
  6. just_ace

    just_ace Well-Known Member

    oh....... no wonder starters are getting fried. i don't think they like being cranked that hard and long 7days a week.....

    oh well, bring on the new motor!
     
  7. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    ST185 disks/calipers don't fit

    There wasn't time or I would have!
    Which is why I want to take my time with the new motor and get it right

    I've been through 3 batteries (@ $180ea), 4 alternators (@ $50ea) and there's a pile of busted starters in 2yrs and had to spend an extra $230 on +0.025 ACL B/E bearings just to get the pressure up.
    In winter you can definitely feel the battery has less power and sometimes I have to hold the key open for 10-20 sec before the starter will turn.

    ST185 Brakes
    I finally got some stock pads fitted - WOW:drool5
    Those EBC reds may be good for racing but for the road they are shite and will eat your disks.
    The car now tries to do endo's if I brake the same as before.
    The brake bias is way too much to the front and I don't know how to correct it? Rear disks are hardly working at all, it's been like that since I got it and fitting the ST185 M/C hasn't helped, I thought the old M/C may have had a bad piston but that's not the case.

    I didn't notice this at 1st as the EBC's were cracking along the outsides but I NEED BIGGER DISKS!
    Here's the ST185 calipers/276mm Disks - I measured them to make sure they are the correct items
    [​IMG]

    Piston is huge compared to ST162/ST182, I notice that some ST183 models also use these calipers/brakes (according to Znoelli catalog)
    [​IMG]

    The new pads compared to the EBC's, they also fit JDM ST165 (86-87) and ST182 models which have smaller pistons and disks - weird?
    Is there a reason for the chamfering on the sides?
    [​IMG]

    The ST185 276mm disk/Caliper on the ST162 hub, there's an overlap of around 5mm - so I have 2 choices
    1)Fit ST185 hubs?
    2)Find bigger disks? I've been studying catalogs and all I see is maybe modifying some Altezza disks down to 290mm
    [​IMG]

    I need to change the rear disks as well, so I'm looking for some slotted disks that will fit the front and rear

    Thinking while uploading pics I remember having the same problem when I used ST202 brakes (255mm) on ST162 hubs.
    Perhaps the answer is to ditch the ST185 calipers and use the ST185 disks (276mm) with ST202 Calipers which should fit nicely onto the 276mm disks?

    ST202 caliper/disk on ST162 hub - same problem
    [​IMG]

    Which is a pity considering I have 2 sets of new pads and new seals in the ST185 calipers - :sad
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2012
  8. lone wolf

    lone wolf Well-Known Member Donated!

    I fitted the st185 front calipers with grooved discs without any modification???? I know the rear needs minor adjustments to fit ST185 brakes but fronts don't...

    I am happy with the EBC red's but only drive the car 2000km's a year so it's a good thing they clean the discs so fast ;).

    There is a way to change the braking force front/back but it's comprehensive and not worth the effort imo. Front braking is most needed and if rear braking is needed (cornering?) you can always tab the handbrake as well..
     
  9. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    LOL, no ST205 brakes are only found in museums here, unless you buy a wreck.
    I'm thinking I'll keep this till $2500 falls on my head and I can buy some 6 pot 330mm items

    No bias valve fitted like on other cars?, you would need two fitted to the front lines to increase rear pressure? Or a Tilton type adjuster with dual M/C's

    There is some confusion re the front brakes:
    This is JDM spec
    86-89 ST162 - 258mm, single piston, 22mm, ST162 pad
    86-87 ST165 - 255mm, single piston, 22mm, ST182 pad
    88-89 ST165 - 255mm, twin piston, 25mm, ST165/185 pad
    90-91 ST185 - same as 88/89 ST165
    92-93 ST185 - 278mm, single piston, 25mm, ST182 pad
    90-93 ST182 - 255mm, single piston, 22mm, ST182 pad

    [​IMG]

    Wolf - what size are your disks?
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2012
  10. lone wolf

    lone wolf Well-Known Member Donated!

    need to measure, assuming as ST185 ... got a picture of my old vs my new :

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  11. rio

    rio Active Member

    isent there a brake bias regulator on the front firewall,factory setinngs operated by a sprong and a ball type off valve ?
    btw dont the st 182 have the bias regulator like #normal# cars working on lever system on the rear axle.. ?

    yep epc prn nbr for st162

    [TABLE]
    [TR="class: h"]
    [TD]47150[/TD]
    [TD="colspan: 3"]VALVE ASSY, PROPORTIONING[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]47150‑20130[/TD]
    [TD][/TD]
    [/TR]
    [/TABLE]
    http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_1987_TOYOTA_CELICA_ST162L-BLMVFG_4708.html

    edit st182 with abs have the lever type fitted..

    http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_1993_TOYOTA_CELICA_ST182L-BLMVFG_4708.5.html
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2012
  12. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    There is what looks like a splitter on the firewall, I looked at it and you can't open it.
    Top pipe splits to the two front brakes, bottom pipe feeds to the rears

    [​IMG]
    I don't know the ST182 but will look next time, my Alfa's had a lever on the rear axle which closed a valve when the rear lifted up

    Doesn't look like there's anything inside but I'll swap it anyway, may have got blocked inside as I had strange crap coming from my rear lines for a long time
    [​IMG]

    Thanks for info guys, good work

    Wolf - Sure looks like ST185 but your calipers look square like on the ST202, what do the pads look like?
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2012
  13. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    The UK import convertable with the Booster kit has just re-surfaced at 2x the price and the owner never even got it on the road,
    man I'm peeved!

    [​IMG]

    Note the unusual "Targa" roof, stock on the Euro versions
    Note also the 3rd brake light in the rear wing

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=491575531

    What I would give to own this here.......where's that damn lotto ticket?

    I did ask the owner why it has stood and here's the answer - "It has too much rust. If you want to view you can contact me on ......"
    I see rust on the bootlid hinge supports etc, but would be sad to see it destroyed as it's defitely not worth $1500 here
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2012
  14. lone wolf

    lone wolf Well-Known Member Donated!

    ow boy if that were closeby...I'd get it !

    btw, 170K MILES not km's... and the steering wheel is at the wrong side for me but who cares if that is in showcondition again. :)
     
  15. Seank90

    Seank90 Well-Known Member Donated!

    WOW! that would be an amazing project to have!
     
  16. blingitoy

    blingitoy Well-Known Member

    Oh my.. I want it :drool
     
  17. rio

    rio Active Member

    stig that should be it, ther are camp on the bottm side, imsure thera are some sort of spring ball type vales inthere,, 182 without abs got the same system with abs got the lever type ...
     
  18. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    Thanks for the info
    Progress has been slow but I did manage to get the MR2 shafts stripped and the GT4 outer driveshafts fitted to the MR2 inner flanges.
    The MR2 outer driveshafts are shorter than the GT4 shafts by +/-10mm

    I gave away the gen2 GE motor to make space for some serious gearbox stripping

    I found the front camber adjusters, Lion pm me your details.

    I also found a set of ST185 front hubs but the bearings are suspect - how easy is it to change them? ie can it be done without a press?
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2012
  19. just_ace

    just_ace Well-Known Member

    you need a press. bearings must go in square, and they don't like being hit with a hammer. you can do what ever to pull the bearing out, but in my exp a press is still easiest, the inner and outer race require quite a bit of force to separate them from the hub.
     
  20. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    Right now my press is called a vice, amazing what you can do if you use it right.
    I'll try with some old ones 1st and see how it goes next weekend.
    I guess the CV holds it in place so use a spare one to help pull the bearings in?

    This week I want to find some bigger shock bolts so I can fit the TEIN coilovers, my speedo cable snapped under the dash so I fitted one from a ST165 only to find it's a lot shorter but it's working, man that grommet is a PITA to fit.

    My windscreen is also leaking along the top so I'll have to yank it out and re-seal it, not a nice job either
     

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