JDM TEMS, Corona 162 - 2 & 4 door and many more jdm oddities

Whoa, you're keeping highly flammable shit UNDER the house?

Old Scooby's and Volvo's are your thing? lol
The Corolla's look like AE101's to me which is always a surprise to see a 4WD badge wasted on a Corolla
Actually it's a AE104, here's a vid of one making 400hp with a 3S-GTE & box fitted - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRFSCnXUKA0

Something that will make people who say a N/A 3S can't make power say "OMFG"

Just realised my detonaton problem is the plugs - went from racing 8's to normal 6's, the extra heat is causing pre-ignition so these can go in the g/f's AE101

 

The sound of a strong 3S at revs is orgasmic, this ST182 has a BTCC motor/box and it makes enuff power/sound I think
- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEp4bkZ10GY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0iLrBuldr0&feature=relmfu
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uV39oIqRzPc&feature=related

The turbo's are faster but you don't hear the engine -
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81DeYYK8Dtc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5Wg3JUcKwM&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5WfSZBPosI&feature=related

 

Sure you can have the adjusters, lost them in the move but they are here somewhere

Raspy?, I'm used to rotaries with big exhausts and small silencers - that's raspy.
I'd say the 4AGE is a raspy 4-stroke, my GE makes a deeper howl and the off-throttle crackle you only hear on race cars nowdays?

 

I looked today but didn't see them, there is also a spare hub set I don't want to unrap yet as the bearings are new

No, I found one lying in the yard at Sergei's place but looking for more spares, who knows some might still have good syncros and other ratios?

Yes, I realized that when I saw you, these are non superstrut and feel very soft, I need to buy some C-spanners somewhere

Only the clear front indicators and the solid bottom spoiler

 

No Fernando, it's stuff I said

Thanks for the feedback, it's been a long slow learning curve and most of what we know now has been learned the hard way.
When I 1st joined there was so much B/S floating around I decided to bust some of the myths and expose the truth.(I've been here since 2006, not 2009 - ask Mafix, Ryan)
Obviously there have been some mistakes along the way and and they need to be rectified, many subsequent posts went missing in the crash of 2010 and I need to do more editing.(Believe it or not - more than 1/2 of this thread is missing!!)

Simple, I want to keep the Gen1 GE manifold, ECU, airbox, wiring etc. I have a gen2 GE setup here but can't be bothered with it as with the GTE head etc I can just switch the old motor back in without having to change everything back.

Pics from yesterday - Gen2 GTE head already has GE cams fitted, obsolete GE Gen2 is in the backround


GTE gen2 inlet porting appears to be somewhere between the GE gen1 and GTE gen1?

Yes, I have found somebody local who had the same problem and says he has built a puller to remove the transfer.

Yes, it's an early diff. I will keep a lookout but I think you already know how scarce they are

True, my mistake. I thought I had rectified all those posts.
Wishfull thinking..... if only we had an extra 2,5mm to play with, I see the new 4G Mitsi's are using 150mm+ rods.

From what I could ascertain the forged pistons expand more and need more clearance which means they need more care on warmups etc - it would depend on the build of your engine but possibly something to watch out for as I see so many modded motors dying premature deaths, at the same time I see those guys doing burnouts with ice cold motors.

The gen3 was a GTE head from a late MR2, the head was damaged so got scrapped but I intend to fit the valves and springs/buckets to the Gen2 GTE head along with Gen2 GE cams from the now obsolete GE head.

Gen3 GE inlet cams (2x) are another cheap option, my aim is to build a decent motor using as much stock stuff as possible from the scrapyards,
which makes it possible for others to do the same on a limited budget. I wouldn't try them without the Gen3 valves/springs/buckets though.
The idea is to build the motor in stages and use a dyno to confirm what works and what doesn't
What works in N/A form could benefit those wanting to up the performance of their GTE motors without breaking the bank.

I'd love to have Kelford, Wiseco, Eagle, ARP, Link, Toda, HKS etc under the bonnet but I'm realistic enuff to realize it would require Lotto money to do that and that is where the majority of site members are at this time

It's good to have some input from someone else who obviously has also experimented and learned the hard way.

 

You are correct
The current motor runs 12-1CR and it's a c#*t to start and keep detonation away with BP98 ron and gen2 (315cc) injectors it's a constant battle.



I fitted NGK BPR7's the other day and it's made the detonation worse - I need cold plugs just to prevent detonation!
It burns early starters and I'm stuck with using later V6 starters which are also taking strain, the motor can't be started till the pressures are up or it rattles bearings like a kid in a cot, smoking starters are a way of life for me atm.

New motor I want low CR (9.5-10) and some power, current plan is a 5S crank, 2JZ rods, Honda K20 pistons etc with the G2GTE head and I'm using a gen1 GTE block - but I think still too much compression so am looking at milling some 5S pistons down 5mm and re-pocketing them which is expensive
I see some guys using 2JZ pistons too, so will look into them...

3S vs Honda


I'm looking for a motor that makes big torque rather than power up high, sounds silly but the tracks here are short with slow corners and not changing gears all the way to work would be nice.
The car runs with Evo's and WRX's, only problem is I have to do some blocking or get out-accelerated


I'm open to ideas as it's all in the planning stages still

 

Yes. gen2 head is nice but a pain to use properly, for that effort I'd rather fit a red top. Gen3 GE heads are $125 here plus the manifolds.
Red top and ST215 use inlet runners similar to the ST162

I have been looking too, rods around 140mm are scarce and most have narrow main bearings. Other possibles are Moto Guzzi or Opel GSI 16V?. Might be worth having some made or re-sized.

Gap is 1.1mm, any smaller and she cuts out when hot.
ECU is stock JDM

I'm cranking for up to 30 seconds for pressure.
Starts like a bastard, hot or cold. Beams has detonation sensor and the cam advance is to prevent detonation?