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seank90, Back to cleaning

Discussion in 'Your 4th Gen beauty' started by Seank90, Sep 9, 2009.

  1. aaron

    aaron Well-Known Member

    Don't stop the welding pics, I'm loving them! I'm hoping I can do the same to my chassis when I eventually get a welder/everything else done lol

    Are you going to stitch weld the whole chassis or just the engine bay?
     
  2. Seank90

    Seank90 Well-Known Member Donated!

    I think they will be handy for people who want to stitch weld there engine bay because they show the lines and were to start etc etc, Im only doing the engine bay, thats all thats needed realistically, This is a road car, now a rally car , these cars handle awesome without any mods so just imagine how much more awesome it will handle now with the front all welded. the rear end only has one job really, and thats to hold the car straight and smooth and follow, the front is were all the action is, turning and suspension and most the weight.

    Thats why im only doing the front end. :p
     
  3. aaron

    aaron Well-Known Member

    Good point, welding the rear would probably be overkill and a waste of time lol
    I'd probably weld the strut towers since I've got to fix some rust behind my right rear wheel well anyway.
     
  4. Seank90

    Seank90 Well-Known Member Donated!

    I had a look around to were the sill is rotten on the drivers side because it will be the next piece of welding after the front is fully done and im surprised because i was expecting much much worse it seems to be all confined to one area so im going to get some rust treatment and treat the area inside the sill while its so accessible and then use a sound proof wax coating on the inside to reduce road noise

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    The finished panelwork doesnt have to be 100% perfect because it will be covered in a side skirt for the rest of its life but i will do the best i can! if anybody has any good rust treatment methods feel free to shoot there ideas, so far im going getting most of my rust treatment off this site

    RUSTBUSTERS
     
  5. fernandocelica

    fernandocelica Well-Known Member Donated!

    Sean cut that piece off and weld another piece on then rust proof it with rust proof and seam sealent
     
  6. Seank90

    Seank90 Well-Known Member Donated!

    thats the plan fernando! i have a second Celica which i can cut the parts from
     
  7. Seank90

    Seank90 Well-Known Member Donated!

    So for todays job i removed the anti roll bar and the fuel and brake lines, the first think that has to be removed was the anti roll bar because it holds the fuel and brakelines from coming off , There was only 4 bolts holding these on

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    Now was for the brake lines and fuel lines, These were all size tens and were very easily removed with the impact gun :razz There steel lines and there should be no problem in refurbishing them.

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    There is two protective plastic covers to be removed first and then the lines can be accessed. Once accessed you must loosen off the ends going into the back brakes and then remove all the brackets holding them in place.

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    After a bit of fiddling the lines are then removed.
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    Also, a tip for people, leave the bolts to sit in a bag of kerosene to clean themselves up a bit! And start to eat into the rust on it
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Seank90

    Seank90 Well-Known Member Donated!

    So i said to myself today that i was going to finish welding the engine bay and thats exactly what i did! so i only had the back panel left to do, and i started by stripping off the sealer which is a bitch of a job, and then cleaned it down with a wire brush.

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    And then i welded up the all the seams on the back panels.
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    Im not too sure if theres any need to do more, if anybody has any opinion please let me know... im kinda in two minds about it. :psyduck
     
  9. rev_head

    rev_head Well-Known Member Donated!

    from what i know about seam welding only doing one area isnt usually recommended. when you stiffen up the chassiis in one are it transfers the flex to the rest of the car. so in your case. the front is gonna be very stiff but the rear is going to be worse off. thats my belief anyway.

    regardless. excellent work man. keep it up
     
  10. Seank90

    Seank90 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Alot of the rally guys here only do the engine bays because it allows the back of the car to flex a little, while reinforcing the front stiffens the back also by giving it much less room to flex from left to right,

    If the weight distribution of the car is 65 : 35 by doing the front your making up for the weight that has been thrown around... But if its worse off im just going to do the back again sometime. Back is simple to do compared to the front. Im sure a better antiroll bar in the back would sort alot of it anyway.

    Rob, couple of Q's seeing as your a paint guy, What do i need to get to prime the front. this is what i have on my list so far, let me know if im missing something.

    - Rust converter ( for were it was stitch welded )
    - Seam Sealer
    - Panel wipe
    - Etch primer
    - Thinners
    - reg filler primer.

    How does that look for a shopping list?? if anybody else wants to add feel free!
     
  11. rev_head

    rev_head Well-Known Member Donated!

    im a panel beater not a painter lol
    looks good. just missing sanpaper and prepsol.
    dont bother with etch primer if your gonna just prime over it again

    are you painting with 2pak or acyrlic?
     
  12. Seank90

    Seank90 Well-Known Member Donated!

    more than likely 2k... I just really want to stop the rust were it lies right now... You may be a panel beater, but even panel beaters know how to paint :D

    i have loads of sandpaper! is prepsol not the same as panel wipe?? Also, would a 1.3mm head be ok for primer??
     
  13. rev_head

    rev_head Well-Known Member Donated!

    prepsol is wax and grease remover or prepwash what ever you wanna call it.
    for pimer u want a 1.8mm head. maybe larger but 1.8 is tge way to go imo.

    sand it to a 240grit finish. wipe it down with prepsol and prime away
     
  14. Seank90

    Seank90 Well-Known Member Donated!

    sweet... thanks for the info bud. Ill do the shopping and ill keep you all updated
     
  15. Seank90

    Seank90 Well-Known Member Donated!

    shopping....

    Went into town to get a couple of bits and called into the local auto garage and couldn't resist buying some stuff to work with... I was told that if im using etch primer there's no need to put rust remover on before it because it will just eat into it anyway and stop it from rusting and coming through the filler primer above it. So i went ahead and bought it! :byodood i also got some seam sealer and panel wipe and thinners.

    The etch primer.
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    The thinners
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    Panel wipe
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    Seam Sealer
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    He said the etch primer is ready mixed so just put it into the gun and paint away, has anybody experience with that?
    Also if someone could tell me the best way to apply the seam sealer to get a really clean finish that would be great, I have a few ideas but the more info the better!
     
  16. rev_head

    rev_head Well-Known Member Donated!

    just mask up the around the seams. apply it with a brush and cover the whole area. then with long sweeps smooth it out as best you can then remove the tape
     
  17. Seank90

    Seank90 Well-Known Member Donated!

    thanks rob, thats what i was thinking but i wanted to be sure about it first before anything...
     
  18. fernandocelica

    fernandocelica Well-Known Member Donated!

    The ecth primer you can use it as the guy told you thats the right way to do it for the sealer it's ok the stuff you have but we use the canister type that give's you the rippled finish so it look's more to the original finish don't want to confuse you the way rev-head told you it's 100% for the brush type you will enjoy doing it.
     
  19. Seank90

    Seank90 Well-Known Member Donated!

    so my plan is to remove a bit more paint from around the seams and lay down some etch then, once thats done im going to leave it a day to dry and cure and then im going to really heat up the seam sealer so its more liquid form and it should give a really smooth finish, i want the seams to almost look hidden... i was thinking of using the cartridge type alright but i think the brush seal will do...
     
  20. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    Dunno about the etch primer, I've always sworn by it but talking to a top paint specialist here in NZ he told me that etch primer only works on aluminiun, not steel.
     

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