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Finally more mods taking place on the GTS racecar!

Discussion in 'Motorsports' started by racerb, Oct 4, 2012.

  1. jordan0day

    jordan0day Member Donated!

    This is looking great so far. I'm very interested to see how your airdam/brake ducting setup ends up working out, as we burned through our pads (and ended up with a cracked rotor) at our last enduro. Ducting has been on the short list of improvements to make to our '89 GTS racer since then.
     
  2. racerb

    racerb Well-Known Member

    I was going to experiment with different rotors and brake pads, but rotor choices appear to be dwindling daily. Would like to run slotted rotors up front, possibly cryo treated for longer life and drilled rotors at the rear for cooling purposes. Have always had good luck with Brembo rotors, but would like to try Stoptechs if available or R1 Concepts, which are readily available. I've run Carbotech brakes in the past, but am currently working with Andrews Racing a Hawk Brakes dealer for a good setup for longevity and stopping power.

    Here are the R1 Concept rotors and other brake parts for our cars.......
    http://www.r1concepts.com/1989-Toyota-Celica-GTSexcABS.aspx

    racerb
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2014
  3. jordan0day

    jordan0day Member Donated!

    Thanks for the link, hadn't checked R1 out before. Because of rules around costs and things in the series we run, we can't look too much into aftermarket brake kits. We picked up some ST204 calipers and rotors for the front, hoping the slightly bigger size will help with cooling. We've run Carbotech pads in the past with mixed results, and frankly our issues last time may be due to not bedding the pads well on some new rotors.
     
  4. racerb

    racerb Well-Known Member

    I had similar issues with my old Nissan racecar, we switched to Brembo rotors, Carbotech pads, and 3" brake ducts and never had anymore issues. I've decided to go with slotted front rotors (brand undecided), drilled rear rotors, and Hawk pads (compound to be decided), Goodridge stainless steel braided brake lines, with again 3" brake ducts. I'm building for NASA Performance Touring and in order to not be bumped to a higher class, my rotors, calipers, and master cylinder will all be stock st162 GTS sizes. Also I'm planning on running ATE Super Blue brake fluid (no longer available), bought up all I could get my hands on since the Government decided it couldn't be sold in the US anymore.......

    racerb :cool:
     
  5. racerb

    racerb Well-Known Member

    Got the splitter cut out and sanded off round along front leading edge, will make up the mounting bracket and attach to the spoiler later this weekend. Going to Plastic Dip the front portion of the exposed splitter and figure out support rods once everything is mounted on the car. Will post some pics hopefully tomorrow afternoon, need to pick up a few more parts to finish up the mounts.

    Here a couple pics of the splitter, figured plywood is good enough for F1 belly trays, gotta be good enough for my racecar splitter......
    New Splitter Ready For Paint and Mounting 001.jpg New Splitter Ready For Paint and Mounting 002.jpg

    racerb
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2014
  6. racerb

    racerb Well-Known Member

    This is the material I used to support the airdam and will use to attach the splitter. Used to always use aluminum L channel, but decided to try this and glad I did, this edging material from Walmart works great and very easy to work with.....

    More Airdam Splitter Pics 001.jpg More Airdam Splitter Pics 003.jpg More Airdam Splitter Pics 004.jpg

    racerb :driving
     
  7. humble2

    humble2 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Hey racerb how did you remove that tar type insulation stuff all around are car??? I hate this stuff :help..

    thanks
     
  8. racerb

    racerb Well-Known Member

    If you are talking about the stuff around the tail lights, I used WD-40 and lots of elbow grease, it finally all came off. If you are talking about the seam sealer at nearly every weld joint, I've mostly just painted over it. It takes too much to remove it all unless you could acid dip your whole bare chassis.

    racerb
     
  9. humble2

    humble2 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Oh ok people have told me to wait for a cold day and start chipping at it.. But ok cool that's.
     
  10. racerb

    racerb Well-Known Member

    Hey if your talking about the stuff in the floor boards, then yeah a cold day and a rubber or dead-blow hammer will break it up fairly easy. What want break up, you can use a narrow putty knife to pop it up off the floor and out of the deeper grooves.

    racerb :cool:
     
  11. Mafix

    Mafix Owner Staff Member Administrator Donated!

    we've just used a gasket scraper and a hammer...or a large flat blade screw driver.

    yay i'm not the only one in the plywood splitter group! i still have not done revision 3 for mine (it has to be funny shaped because of the "no belly pan" rule).

    yes ATE super blue is "illegal for sale in the usa". because it's blue. no other reason (august 2013 ruling). they still make it in gold. you can also use what i do (castrol gt-lma). food for thought.
     
  12. humble2

    humble2 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Thanks much :D
     
  13. racerb

    racerb Well-Known Member

    Got the front splitter temporarily mounted up tonight, will take pics tomorrow of how it has turned out. Next will be to add the brake ducts, 1/4 turn fasteners, and paint/plastic dip the splitter itself and it's ready for the track, well as soon as I've got my engine back together.

    racerb :eng101
     
  14. racerb

    racerb Well-Known Member

    Pics of the Celica with the new splitter temporarily installed for adjustment purposes. First few pics are of the car at or around race ride height, next pics are of car set at low as the current coil-over package will allow it to go......
    New Splitter Install and Height Adjustment 001.jpg New Splitter Install and Height Adjustment 003.jpg
    Dropping the car to the lowest setting, not only puts the splitter dangerously close to the ground, but also makes the lower front control arms turn upward. The control arm situation is something I'm still working on, again as part of my future roll-center mod.....
    New Splitter Install and Height Adjustment 004.jpg New Splitter Install and Height Adjustment 005.jpg

    racerb
     
  15. racerb

    racerb Well-Known Member

  16. racerb

    racerb Well-Known Member

    Received my brake ducts and Dzus fasteners today from Summit Racing. I've already cut the mounting holes in the airdam and now just need to install the debris screens. Also need to install the dzus fasteners so that the entire assembly will be totally quick release, due to the fact the car will not fit on either of my trailers (open or enclosed) with the airdam installed. I'll post pictures tomorrow of my progress and how things are coming together.

    racerb
     
  17. racerb

    racerb Well-Known Member

    Got one of my brake ducts installed, ran out of debris screen to finish the second, but will finish tomorrow hopefully. Here are some pics of the finished piece and the second temporarily installed, plus one of the high temp duct hose that will supply cool air to the rotors and calipers............
    New Brake Ducts Nearly Complete 001.jpg New Brake Ducts Nearly Complete 002.jpg New Brake Ducts Nearly Complete 003.jpg New Brake Ducts Nearly Complete 004.jpg

    racerb
     
  18. Mafix

    Mafix Owner Staff Member Administrator Donated!

    looks great! you took into account the engine and trans weight on the suspension height?
     
  19. racerb

    racerb Well-Known Member

    That's why I haven't made a final cut on the airdam height, once everything is back in the car I will make final adjustments and cut the airdam to proper length. This is why I've used self tapping screws at the bottom to hold the splitter temporarily, pop rivets will hold it when complete.

    racerb
     
  20. racerb

    racerb Well-Known Member

    Got a little work done today (very little), was still very tired from the Azalea Parade yesterday (5am-2pm) and walked the whole route carrying a big banner. So I did install a few of the dzus fasteners on the new airdam, and being tired really made it hard to do it right. Well I got 5 of the 11 fasteners installed, actually installed 3 of them like 2 or 3 times before they were right. I am really glad I bought 2 different sizes of the dzus fasteners, a .500 and a .650, cause it is actually taking both to reach all the way through the layers of plastic and mounting bracket. I'll post pictures of the finished product hopefully tomorrow afternoon.

    Oh forgot to mention, I bought the rest of my debris screen, went to ACE Hardware and the guy sold me a 4'x2' cutoff section for the cost of a 3'x1' piece, made my day a little better saving about $2......

    racerb :munch
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014

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